KOAN

This is the technique I used to mount, and then to remove my studs, but I only used the recommended torque to mount them.

Rad, if you use that high a torque value in mounting the studs, I would think that you are driving the unthreaded collar into the wheel carrier. If the collar is wide, then the pressure is distributed over a wider surface, but if it is small, like on my studs, then it is largely delivered to the most superficial threads. I like the idea of removing the lug nuts without unscrewing the studs. I just wish there were a better way ( like older p-cars do...pressed mounting)

NJ-GT

the race-studs have a wide unthreaded collar, they stop at the unthreaded collar with this much torque.

The other studs I bought from CDOC (trying to find them to snap a picture) did not have a wide collar, and that's why they kept bolting to the hub.

However, after reading about the TC-Kline studs, I want to give them a try and I have some race-studs and the other crappy ones here to compare.

powdrhound

I think the problem here is the fact that since the initial stud installation torque is very low, between hand tight and 18ft/lb, what you are experiencing over time is that the action of repeatedly loosening the lug nut during wheel removal is also loosening the stud without you noticing. I have RUF studs which have a fairly substantial shoulder on them and thus can be torqued to a higher value without burying the stud into the hub during installation. The RUF spec is 36ft/lb along with red locktite. I have never had any issues even on the track but I use aluminum hub floating rotors which will not transfer that much heat into the hub to weaken the locktite.

KOAN

Where can I get those studs? Do they have a dead space at the bottom of the threaded portion above the collar? I need to be able to use them with thin ( CCW) and thick (BBS) wheels. How long is the threaded part outside of the wheel carrier?

SH || NC

Race-studs (site supporter) sells them (link). I used them (link) until they started to rust, then went with the Performance series (link)

IPguy

Where can you get these studs and how substantial is the shoulder?
Thanks,
Mike

LVDell

Just finished removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the studs. I used loctitie red and bumped the torque spec to about 30 ft-lb which didn't make too much of a difference in how far in the hub the stud seats. I started at 20 and then moved to 30 to see how much further the stud went in. It was negligible. I just made sure they were all seated far enough into the hub (which I assume is more important). Since I won't be driving the car for another few days or more, I am going to let the loctite really cure before I install the wheels. I don't imagine these will move with the car being street only now but I'll report back.

KOAN

SH ll NC
I have had failures with each of these.

KOAN

As described previously, they snapped just below the hub surface. The locktite was still firm, and I had a hell of a time extracting the stump on one. On two others, they unscrewed pretty easily, showing that the locktite was no longer tite. I used the "race studs" initially, and went to the "performance" type for the second set.

SH || NC

Damn Chuck, you've had quite a bit of bad luck with studs; you are the anti-stud

KOAN

I can say with confidence that I am not attracted to studs...

LVDell

Apparently the stud community doesn't like Chuck.

chris walrod

For best results using Loctite, both surfaces need to be degreased. Since many fasteners are black oxide plated, the oils from this plating need to be washed away.

Studs in general should be of the bottoming type. I've never been a big fan of bottoming a stud via the end of a thread or narrow shoulder.

NJ-GT

I like these ones:



The 100mm ones work with the BBS Magnesium 35 centers (the fat center BBS Mg wheels)

powdrhound

Hi Chuck,
The RUF studs have a decent size shoulder to them that rests agains the hub as you tighten them down. Its almost like a collar about 2mm thick. There is no way you could bury these into the hub by tightening them. There is no dead space at the base of the stud, the threads go down right up to the collar. The studs from RUF come as a kit with magnesium lugnuts which have a closed end. They are light as a feather. They nuts are not the pass through variety but of course those could be used as well. The length of the RUF studs is not nearly as long as some of the race studs that guys use. The RUF studs and lugnuts is designed to be used with OEM wheels, RUF wheels, or other wheels where the center thickness looks to be about 10mm (the thickness between the ball seat and the wheel hub face. I don't think these would work with the BBS magnesium wheel as the center is way too thick. The total length of the threaded portion of the stud measured from the brake disk hat (that the wheel hub mates up to) to the end of the stud is 35mm. Total stud length is probably about 45mm. On the front of my car (RUF 550 Rturbo) I currently use a 7mm RUF spacer which is supplied with slightly longer studs which still give you right at 35mm of useable stud outside of the spacer. I have a set of CCW track wheels coming and I hope that the length of these studs will work with the CCW wheels. They should assuming the center of the CCW wheel is comparable to OEM wheels or the RUFs plus I can always use open lug nuts for more flexibility. RUF sells a complete kit of 20 studs and 20 magnesium black anodized closed end lug nuts (Part # R96 300 361 36). It's about $300 and can be purchased through RUF USA. Its pricey but mainly due to the fact that the lug nuts are magnesium. You can find it on their website when you look at the 996 RUF parts programme. This link should work and the stud conversion kit is on page 8.

http://www.rufauto.us/ruf/images/sto...h-englisch.pdf

The contact at RUF is Mike Melville at (248) 304-9091. I will take some close up pictures tomorrow to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about.

John