944CS

Not at the flywheel, but a higher r&p ratio multiplies the torque to the wheels more

LVDell

Wait, what? How in the world does it do that?

Viperbob1

Suspension revalve and springs (400/600 is not too stiff for Sebring. i would go at least 600/800), LWF, LSD rebuild. If labor is included in your capital budget, then this will be right at $5K. If not, then Toe-Arms for sure and replace dog bones.

mkk62

Viper bob.

R and p or re gear? What's ur opinion?
Mike

Viperbob1

I prefer the regear. The pinion becomes very small when you go to different ratio. Cups cars till couple years ago would blow those things up left and right. Now they have stronger materials and work better (and mo money). You can then tailor the gearing to your cars power bands, driving, types of tracks, etc. With a R&P you just have a percentage change across the board sometimes to much in a gear, sometimes too little.

mkk62

What I thought. Thx bob. Always helpful.

ace996

Dell,
It allows the power to be transferred to the ground quicker. Same work will be done, just faster. You own a mountain/road bicycle?
Put the chain on the smallest sprocket...see how fast you can go from 0-5mph.
Now put the chain on the biggest sprocket...
Same "engine" is being used, just different rate of power application.

If you were looking for a more advanced/intelligent explanation...I'm not that guy... It has someting to do with leverage, speed, work, power, blah...blah...blah. I just know it works.


For most of us who don't go over 160mph (or lower) on 95% of the tracks we run on, a gearing change would allow us to put the available power down much more efficiently.

When I changed the sprockets on my prior Ducati 996, the bike went from fast to scary fast...and the front wheel would lift coming out of turns on throttle alone. The torque multiplication of the gearing was seriously astounding - it was if the bike had 10-15% more power.
My buddies who drag race often go to a different diff ratio first thing. My friend who does the Texas Mile has to properly gear the car to top out near the end of the mile...about 220mph for his 996TT. The more power he runs, the more gear he can use and the faster he can go. For our applications, with the same power, in order to "use" the power 'faster' than a stock car, we lose top speed.

Turning that wasted 30mph of top-end (160-190mph) for a more aggressive 0-160 is a great way to make a vehicle quicker.

This is why those cup trannies are so good...same power but quicker from corner to corner.

Be good,
TomK

my911rs

Interesting that you are including LWF in the short list. Would that include a new clutch?
Also no helper springs - is that because the stock set up does not allow for it or are they not necessary?
Thanks for your input, Bob.

himself

FWIW, my revalve and install was only ~$3,500.
700# / 900# Eibach springs
Revalved GT3 OEM Bilsteins
Tarret toe arms and locking plate [no bump steer]
Front upper mounts
Rear upper mounts
Rear toe-arms
Rear locking plates
Shipping.
Setup guide and support.
Install
Alignment
Corner balance.

-td

StevoUK

On my RS

Alcon front brakes
Pagid RS19 brake pads
KW variant 3 shocks and springs
Geo alignment - fast road/track setup
Cup front splitter and Cup brake ducts

The braking components will save a fortune vs the Porsche ones - 25k miles on the disks and 15k miles on the pads is not unusual.

The KW suspension was fitted when the rear Bilsteins started leaking - most do.