Guard LSD, LWF, Exhuast and GT3 Seats Installed!
#32
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Neway good choice for whatever ratio u get- guard is da bomb. I wouldn't rec 80/80 in the rain. My *** must be numb- I don't feel ^ne understeer : ( and when I did use to drive on the street it's still pretty civil. Mike
#34
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I did 40:60 based on several conversations with matt... in short iirc it was long sweeping turns 50:80 and tracks with tighter turns go 40:60
it feels noticeably better than stock
it feels noticeably better than stock
#36
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I did not get a hat because that time Paul still had reigns : (. Matt give me a hat : ). Neway outstanding job taking over the reigns. It's not easy taking over a reputable company like Paul Guard. Like it never changed : ). U want my address to send cap : ). Jk. Mike
#37
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diff
2 piece shaft includes 1st gear
2nd, 3rd, 4th
and ring and pinion
then you can join the elite gt hat club
:-)
or just pay his rent for a couple months
2 piece shaft includes 1st gear
2nd, 3rd, 4th
and ring and pinion
then you can join the elite gt hat club
:-)
or just pay his rent for a couple months
#40
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^have u thought of stripping it down? It may surprise u in spades. I've driven mooty's stripper- oh mother of god what a beast : ). ^he since then removed another 150 lbs. Mike
#42
Drifting
#43
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Vacuuming Cal Speedway
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I put the 50/80 into my 6-cup after using the OEM 40/60 and I really liked the higher lockup ratios. My cup's diff was shot so perhaps just having any working diff would have impressed me but I dropped 2 seconds immediately at several of my regular tracks. I had to learn to drive it differently, but once mastered it's paid dividends. I also have the 50/80 in my little 3.4 996 and suspect the 40/60 would have been just fine but I want every advantage I can use.....
#44
Nordschleife Master
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It's a combination of what PJ said and what JR said. Even in a DE car, if your "home" track is Sebring, for example, 50/80 will be the faster set up, right out of the box. But somewhere like Turn 7 you'll have to learn how to drive it, like JR says. We do more 50/80 sets up out East than we do for West Coast drivers.
I mean no offense to the DE crowd (and include myself in the following statement) but most of us haven't fully developed the skillset that would allow us to get the most out of the 50/80 set up, especially on smaller tighter tracks like are found in Nor-Cal. For 90%+ of us, 40/60 is how we'll be fastest. If the car is to be used for racing, it's worth investing in yourself with respect to learning and being taught how to drive with something like the 50/80 setup. JR was lucky in that he had Chris Wilson to coach and guide him in how to maximize what that configuration can offer.
I really do appreciate all the support and compliments you guys send my way. I'm one of the lucky few in that my profession is also my community. You guys make me feel very welcome in your midst and it's really cool when we travel and end up meeting members of the forum.
As for the hats? PJ got one not because of how much money he spent, but for two main reasons. Reason number 1 is that it was his idea. We've got company shirts and jackets for when we're at the track. He gave me the idea of doing a run of hats, and that's part of why he got one.
The other part was his infinite patience. He was the "victim" of a major manufacturing oversight and his gearbox had to be rebuilt twice as a result. He had to wait 8 weeks while we made the right part for his car and was nothing but understanding and easy to work with through the whole fiasco. The man definitely earned his hat in my book.
Though now that we've made some hats and there's interest, we are looking into making an actual commercial run of them. We just had 10 done as custom hand embroidered ones to start with. If we can find a factory that will do them by the hundreds for cheap enough, it may be something we sell in the future. I'll keep you posted.
I mean no offense to the DE crowd (and include myself in the following statement) but most of us haven't fully developed the skillset that would allow us to get the most out of the 50/80 set up, especially on smaller tighter tracks like are found in Nor-Cal. For 90%+ of us, 40/60 is how we'll be fastest. If the car is to be used for racing, it's worth investing in yourself with respect to learning and being taught how to drive with something like the 50/80 setup. JR was lucky in that he had Chris Wilson to coach and guide him in how to maximize what that configuration can offer.
I really do appreciate all the support and compliments you guys send my way. I'm one of the lucky few in that my profession is also my community. You guys make me feel very welcome in your midst and it's really cool when we travel and end up meeting members of the forum.
As for the hats? PJ got one not because of how much money he spent, but for two main reasons. Reason number 1 is that it was his idea. We've got company shirts and jackets for when we're at the track. He gave me the idea of doing a run of hats, and that's part of why he got one.
The other part was his infinite patience. He was the "victim" of a major manufacturing oversight and his gearbox had to be rebuilt twice as a result. He had to wait 8 weeks while we made the right part for his car and was nothing but understanding and easy to work with through the whole fiasco. The man definitely earned his hat in my book.
Though now that we've made some hats and there's interest, we are looking into making an actual commercial run of them. We just had 10 done as custom hand embroidered ones to start with. If we can find a factory that will do them by the hundreds for cheap enough, it may be something we sell in the future. I'll keep you posted.
#45
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Matt,
I remember in one of your posts you mentioned that the labor for ring 'n pinion is higher than re-gearing the gearbox.. while gear set (maybe moving 5th to 6th, and then re-gear the rest?) has higher part cost, but less labor..
How does that work? Seems like the ring 'n pinion changes involves much less parts, why is the labor more? Or I didn't understand it correct?
It would almost seems like gear change would be the better choice.. as you are actually spacing out the gear ratio (to minimize the rpm drop) vs. just a r&P job..
I remember in one of your posts you mentioned that the labor for ring 'n pinion is higher than re-gearing the gearbox.. while gear set (maybe moving 5th to 6th, and then re-gear the rest?) has higher part cost, but less labor..
How does that work? Seems like the ring 'n pinion changes involves much less parts, why is the labor more? Or I didn't understand it correct?
It would almost seems like gear change would be the better choice.. as you are actually spacing out the gear ratio (to minimize the rpm drop) vs. just a r&P job..