Moton Clubsport Users. What is the best set-up for steet/track use.
#1
Drifting
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I'm looking to move out of the KWV3 set-up I have on my car.. Although they are better than the stock set-up I feel I'm better suited for a Moton set-up, based on my driving style.. The V3's are great!! for the street and real good on the track..
My question is, those of you that have Moton Club Sports.. How do they ride on the street? My car is a 50/50 street/track car. Also what spring ratio would you suggest.
TIA: and once I pull the trigger on these I'll have a nice set of KW's for sale here on R-List.
My question is, those of you that have Moton Club Sports.. How do they ride on the street? My car is a 50/50 street/track car. Also what spring ratio would you suggest.
TIA: and once I pull the trigger on these I'll have a nice set of KW's for sale here on R-List.
#2
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Just come drive my car sometime if you want to see what they are like on the street. You know where I live
#3
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Spring rates really depend on what tires you will use, type of useage, and driver experience. Everyone has their preferences but I usually shoot for a 200 lb split.
FWIW, I have one set of brand-new Clubsports left I'm offering for 2% over cost.
#4
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I'm looking to move out of the KWV3 set-up I have on my car.. Although they are better than the stock set-up I feel I'm better suited for a Moton set-up, based on my driving style.. The V3's are great!! for the street and real good on the track..
My question is, those of you that have Moton Club Sports.. How do they ride on the street? My car is a 50/50 street/track car. Also what spring ratio would you suggest.
TIA: and once I pull the trigger on these I'll have a nice set of KW's for sale here on R-List.
My question is, those of you that have Moton Club Sports.. How do they ride on the street? My car is a 50/50 street/track car. Also what spring ratio would you suggest.
TIA: and once I pull the trigger on these I'll have a nice set of KW's for sale here on R-List.
Just an idea.
John
#5
Drifting
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No they are not junk... But I've increased the spring ratio to the max on the front without having them revalved. I've corner balanced, and aligned the car, and I adjust them as need based on the track and feel. But I came off of JRZ 12 ways on my Koni car so I'm driving the car (IMO) outside the KW's spring set up... To me they were good at tracks like Mid Ohio but I bottom out the front end and get purposing at high speed tracks such as Road Atlanta.
Again the KW V3 is a great set-up.. But perhaps not for everyone..
#7
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Stock KW V3 set-up is
970 Rear
230 Front
I increased the front to 400 as that was the max KW suggested before having to re-valve the front end.
Not positive on my exact ride height. She sits low with all the proper Drop Links, dog bones, etc.. The bottoming out isn't the suspension rather the front tire in the wheel well.
315/245 set-up
970 Rear
230 Front
I increased the front to 400 as that was the max KW suggested before having to re-valve the front end.
Not positive on my exact ride height. She sits low with all the proper Drop Links, dog bones, etc.. The bottoming out isn't the suspension rather the front tire in the wheel well.
315/245 set-up
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#8
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I think you have to start with what spring rates you want, and what your uses will be regarding street driving and how bumpy the tracks you want to maximize for. I've heard of spring rates from 600/600 to 1000/1200. I'm at 800/1000, and it is marginal but possible on Michigan roads, and OK on most tracks. Then, are you using slicks, R6s or Street tires? Are you going to use stock sway bars? What will your ride height be? And, as Steve said, what experience level/driving style?
Depending on track conditions, tire age and type, track temps, I am between 4 and 2 with all adjustments, sways set at middle.
Depending on track conditions, tire age and type, track temps, I am between 4 and 2 with all adjustments, sways set at middle.
#9
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Stock KW V3 set-up is
970 Rear
230 Front
I increased the front to 400 as that was the max KW suggested before having to re-valve the front end.
Not positive on my exact ride height. She sits low with all the proper Drop Links, dog bones, etc.. The bottoming out isn't the suspension rather the front tire in the wheel well.
315/245 set-up
970 Rear
230 Front
I increased the front to 400 as that was the max KW suggested before having to re-valve the front end.
Not positive on my exact ride height. She sits low with all the proper Drop Links, dog bones, etc.. The bottoming out isn't the suspension rather the front tire in the wheel well.
315/245 set-up
225 F
550 R
And also the height ratio F/R plays a role as well as the whole weight of the car is important too.
I dont know what tyres u r running.
Also I dont know if you changed the helper springs because the total length of spring plays a vital role as well.
Anyway it is very difficult to advice from a forum about suspension too many variables but assuming you are using dot tyres I still thing that is cheaper to revalve fronts and move to 700 front and retain the rears or soften the rear to 700 and play with sways for better balance. Why throw away a good quality suspension. its not that you only race the car.
Go to a shop that knows these things and ask for their help.
One thing also is dont try to set kw in factory height they are not designed for that.
The rubbing is from the 245, I solved that by installing 255/35s if you can find them in your tyre brand.
John
#10
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I think you have to start with what spring rates you want, and what your uses will be regarding street driving and how bumpy the tracks you want to maximize for. I've heard of spring rates from 600/600 to 1000/1200. I'm at 800/1000, and it is marginal but possible on Michigan roads, and OK on most tracks. Then, are you using slicks, R6s or Street tires? Are you going to use stock sway bars? What will your ride height be? And, as Steve said, what experience level/driving style?
Depending on track conditions, tire age and type, track temps, I am between 4 and 2 with all adjustments, sways set at middle.
Depending on track conditions, tire age and type, track temps, I am between 4 and 2 with all adjustments, sways set at middle.
My old 996 had 500/900 on a more conventional damper and that was a great mix but not nearly the track feel I was after. Chucks car had an amazing feel that I could never get in my old car.
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There is some info in the archives. I think 600/800 was a popular combo for Moton CS being used on a street/track car. When it comes to Moton shock settings for compression & rebound, keep in mind the CS variety up until now has only 7 settings. The revamped line just coming out has 15 positions for the CS line, the same fine tuning levels as the racing line.
Cheers,
Cheers,
#12
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There is some info in the archives. I think 600/800 was a popular combo for Moton CS being used on a street/track car. When it comes to Moton shock settings for compression & rebound, keep in mind the CS variety up until now has only 7 settings. The revamped line just coming out has 15 positions for the CS line, the same fine tuning levels as the racing line.
Cheers,
Cheers,
i think over 6/8 is *** crushing and ball rattling on street. SF street for sure.
the 14 position CS is out already. wonder why i know this.
the cannister looks just like motorsport version.
#13
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There is some info in the archives. I think 600/800 was a popular combo for Moton CS being used on a street/track car. When it comes to Moton shock settings for compression & rebound, keep in mind the CS variety up until now has only 7 settings. The revamped line just coming out has 15 positions for the CS line, the same fine tuning levels as the racing line.
Cheers,
Cheers,
what is the difference between the new cs line vs the ms line?
ps - moton's website blows just not as bad as jrz's website...
#14
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and CS is much cheaper than MS.
this way you can save your money and buy my trailer
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#15
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you need to hold on to that trailer for a few more years but I appreciate you looking out for my best interest in that dept ;-)