Horizontally Opposed Man

Been reading through some posts about changing gear sets in the 996 GT-3 is there a reason why one couldn't change the final drive ratio to a LOWER ratio?Would this not give you potetntially better acceleration and the use of a wider range of gears on the track ?TIA HOM

996FLT6

Yes u can change the stock ring/pinion to a 4.0 ring/pinion ie Copans or motorsports. U lose top end speed I think goes from 190 to 178 mph. U get more available trq in 2nd/3rd but 1st gear will be kinda useless(gets to redline pretty instantly if u push it). U will definitely use 5th gear on the longer straights in the track but takes a little getting use to downshifting to 4th. I blew my pressure plate/clutch when went from 5th to 2nd by mistake. Regards. Mike

LVDell

Tom, we can chat offline if you like about what I did and my rationale. Long story short, R&P is the WRONG way to do it. Changing the gears is the PROPER way. You will still have the crappy long gears that the car has as the gears are not being changed so the ratio between them all stay constant. The only PROPER way to get the gearing to be better suited for the track is to change 3rd-6th gears. The ultimate proper way is gears and R&P but R&P by itself no way. Some guys have done and love it but it's the easy way out to feel like you got what you are really looking for but is the wrong choice.

va122

Dell I respectfully disagree. I just did it and love it and my car all over again. I thought about what you said about first being a stump puller but it's not,

I'm at the top of first as I exit the pits and I shift into second at track entrance. Brilliant. 2nd is a perfect gear for autoX and tight hairpins. I launch like a missile.

I was always too high in second and on the limiter and too low in third now third and 4th are the useful gears on track. straight up down motion no trouble getting into third under load worries. (i did the solid mounts and it still does it (on slicks)

Easy around town,(if you walk your tiger in a leash on the street) you can pass on the highway in 6th!

.2 sec per turn faster. I was 2.5 sec faster at my home track. and the torque is unbelieveable.

I know your rationale and I agree with you the gaps need to be changed, and I will eventually do what you did

But at this point I don't want to have to have the box inspected every year. that's like 2400 in labor alone!! Not to mention shipping to someone who can do it.

va122

I got my fire suit on so flame away mr. lurker.

va122

you ARE right by the way in case you didn't catch it. but the annual inspection is what got me.

I'll buy the cup stack one day and put them in so i have both

David A

I heard you can get the 8/32 set from your dealer? Not sure.

mooty

chaning ring and pinion will help accelaration to some extent. it's not the best way to do that as the rpm drop b/n gear would remain the same.

the optimal way and $$$ way to do it is do 4.0 R/P and then regear the box to each track you goto such that your rpm dont drop out of optimal power band.

P.J.S.

I did the R&P and I really like it... it is not the "right way", I agree... but it is an improvement over stock for sure and the cost is cheap compared to re-gearing.. I agree with VA 122 and with Dell... but if you do not want to spend $12k regearing, the R&P route may work as well for you as it has for me...

Fongster

I have 8/32 too

love it

Horizontally Opposed Man

Thanks everyone for your thoughtful responses.As Dell knows I am but a poor horse farmer and the 12k option is just not in my life right now!I was thinking of upgrading my LSD and further thought that when I did that the time would be right to go to a different final drive .Thanks again!HOM

LVDell

12k? Where are y'all getting your prices from? While I do not have my bill in front of me, I can tell you that the re-gear of my box (3rd-6th) with cup gears and the cup clutch packs for the LSD was nowhere close to 12K!

Sorry Vic, no getting dragged into subjective argument. All I did is state the facts and why regearing is the proper way to go. As I said (and John as well) the proper order would be.......

Best---> R&P and gearing
Better--> gearing
Good --> R&P

va122

It's a PMNA part. Some dealers can get PMNA parts and some will install it. Not most. Champion and suncoast come to mind.

va122

No argument man, we're friends. I'm just giving a different opinion

va122

Don't forget the annual inspection. About 2G plus shipping. Maybe less but the labor involves R&R of the tranny, shipping R&R of the the stack and new (I would) synchros where necessary

The R&P just cost me 2600 for the part from PMNA and 2400 labor done in house (one of the few places) with fluids

Do your Diff at the same time, the Cup clutch packs are 500,If you rebuild yours the guards diff is 2500 for the basic one. I got the GT don't want to look at the receipt so don't ask.