Suspension Setup Woes
#16
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^ i put my daughter on ebay. hoping she gets auctioned off at 350k, then i can get a scud.
#18
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^ wives are too old and nagging to be worth much. you use them to make kids to sell. see, you have to use your brain!
#20
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to Quote from "Something about Mary" Send her over to Japan. "They are into that Sumo culture thing". plus the yen/dollar should pull in about $25k for your wife. providing she can cook rice and cut fish!
#21
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i am utterly amazed with what we can do with our money. I went from a 77 Targa, to a 95 993 to a GT3. I have left the suspension stock, though I have moved the camber to cup settings "somewhat" and feel the car is very predictable. Getting Motons would be nice, but I don't hear all the great stories afterwards. I do see people on the track and the car looks planted, but they are not pulling away from me, or entering corners any faster. Maybe one day, when I find cash on the road I will upgrade, but someone chim in and tell just how much better are motons to justify the price. Then again, I am on a salary, not a business owner or Trust fund participant, so I have to learn to drive the car the way she is.
Just venting cuz im jealous!
Just venting cuz im jealous!
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Dude, for ME it wasn't a money thing. I simply grew out of the stock suspension. I was told by one of my first instructors to do one mod at a time and only when you have to. I've had M3's all my life and when I got my E46m3 I thought it's capabilities were way beyond me. Eventually (sooner rather then later) I modded it and grew out of it and got my GT3. I thought it was the all conquering track animal. I could tool around at 9/10's all day with no drama until i was able to get to 10/10ths then unpredictable **** started happening including snap oversteer at 140+ and unexplained 360's then it was time to upgrade the suspension.
Same with tires, start with street then r-comps then slicks. My friend has a bone stock GT3 and he with A6s is faster then me on my old RA-1s. I put on slicks and I beat the koni cars in my area and hang with the GT2s (and everybody thinks I cheated. )
Motons are magic in a can in the right hands with the right set up but as others have mentioned most wind up slower. Not just because of the set up but the mindset. They upgrade the car thinking that will make them faster but they forget to develop the driver.
Same with my progression, AutoX then DE's then TT's then instructor then pro coaching then club racing then Koni then grand am etc. (I ran out of $ just before the pro level) but it's a matter of time.
That's MY story. Others like to build cars for the sake of building cars. Others will race a miata for the sake of racing.
That being said, I'm 5s faster then stock and can hang with the race cars. Is that because of the mods, from racing or from seat time. I can't honestly tell you.
My point is do what YOU want to do, not what others are doing and who has what. Spend your money on seat time and let nature take it's course. My coach told me before i spend any money on mods to ask myself "will it make me a better driver" The best upgrade is the nut behind the wheel.
ok off my soapbox.
Same with tires, start with street then r-comps then slicks. My friend has a bone stock GT3 and he with A6s is faster then me on my old RA-1s. I put on slicks and I beat the koni cars in my area and hang with the GT2s (and everybody thinks I cheated. )
Motons are magic in a can in the right hands with the right set up but as others have mentioned most wind up slower. Not just because of the set up but the mindset. They upgrade the car thinking that will make them faster but they forget to develop the driver.
Same with my progression, AutoX then DE's then TT's then instructor then pro coaching then club racing then Koni then grand am etc. (I ran out of $ just before the pro level) but it's a matter of time.
That's MY story. Others like to build cars for the sake of building cars. Others will race a miata for the sake of racing.
That being said, I'm 5s faster then stock and can hang with the race cars. Is that because of the mods, from racing or from seat time. I can't honestly tell you.
My point is do what YOU want to do, not what others are doing and who has what. Spend your money on seat time and let nature take it's course. My coach told me before i spend any money on mods to ask myself "will it make me a better driver" The best upgrade is the nut behind the wheel.
ok off my soapbox.
![soapbox](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/soapbox.gif)
#24
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Dude, for ME it wasn't a money thing. I simply grew out of the stock suspension. I was told by one of my first instructors to do one mod at a time and only when you have to. I've had M3's all my life and when I got my E46m3 I thought it's capabilities were way beyond me. Eventually (sooner rather then later) I modded it and grew out of it and got my GT3. I thought it was the all conquering track animal. I could tool around at 9/10's all day with no drama until i was able to get to 10/10ths then unpredictable **** started happening including snap oversteer at 140+ and unexplained 360's then it was time to upgrade the suspension.
Same with tires, start with street then r-comps then slicks. My friend has a bone stock GT3 and he with A6s is faster then me on my old RA-1s. I put on slicks and I beat the koni cars in my area and hang with the GT2s (and everybody thinks I cheated. )
Motons are magic in a can in the right hands with the right set up but as others have mentioned most wind up slower. Not just because of the set up but the mindset. They upgrade the car thinking that will make them faster but they forget to develop the driver.
Same with my progression, AutoX then DE's then TT's then instructor then pro coaching then club racing then Koni then grand am etc. (I ran out of $ just before the pro level) but it's a matter of time.
That's MY story. Others like to build cars for the sake of building cars. Others will race a miata for the sake of racing.
That being said, I'm 5s faster then stock and can hang with the race cars. Is that because of the mods, from racing or from seat time. I can't honestly tell you.
My point is do what YOU want to do, not what others are doing and who has what. Spend your money on seat time and let nature take it's course. My coach told me before i spend any money on mods to ask myself "will it make me a better driver" The best upgrade is the nut behind the wheel.
ok off my soapbox.![soapbox](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/soapbox.gif)
Same with tires, start with street then r-comps then slicks. My friend has a bone stock GT3 and he with A6s is faster then me on my old RA-1s. I put on slicks and I beat the koni cars in my area and hang with the GT2s (and everybody thinks I cheated. )
Motons are magic in a can in the right hands with the right set up but as others have mentioned most wind up slower. Not just because of the set up but the mindset. They upgrade the car thinking that will make them faster but they forget to develop the driver.
Same with my progression, AutoX then DE's then TT's then instructor then pro coaching then club racing then Koni then grand am etc. (I ran out of $ just before the pro level) but it's a matter of time.
That's MY story. Others like to build cars for the sake of building cars. Others will race a miata for the sake of racing.
That being said, I'm 5s faster then stock and can hang with the race cars. Is that because of the mods, from racing or from seat time. I can't honestly tell you.
My point is do what YOU want to do, not what others are doing and who has what. Spend your money on seat time and let nature take it's course. My coach told me before i spend any money on mods to ask myself "will it make me a better driver" The best upgrade is the nut behind the wheel.
ok off my soapbox.
![soapbox](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/soapbox.gif)
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Vic, like you I had an M3... I was on the track bone stock in an M3, turned a 1:06 at Limerock in a bone stock M faster then my stg 2 996TT with euro suspension LOL! Then I did the whole track thing with it, outgrew it so I thought, supercharged it, then ruined every good trait about the car! That car though with coilovers, simple alignment corner weight and balancing could go on FOREVER, always felt solid and just planted, never messed up. I miss that to be honest.. It could be though that I just haven't found the right setup for my car yet, it's still fantastic to drive on the track, but I can just tell, it's not right.
Last but not least, time behind the wheel and experience are number 1, indeed.. That's why I drove so long on these setups, as if anything it made me become a smoother driver and learn the car in a different manor! But now to reach the next level, besides for my driving the car needs to be setup well. Will hopefully get those specs asap.
#25
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You know what, f the alignment. If you don't like it it doesn't matter what it is. Then use the kussmaul settings for alignment. or try my DOT-R settings. Caster 8-8.5 deg 0 to 1mm/side front toe out and 2 mm per side rear toe in. 2.4, 2.6 f/r camber. 1 off full stiff front bar 1 off full soft in the rear. if it pushes loosen the front bar. With your power you want the rear soft to put the power down and the front stiff so you don't' get yourself in trouble.
IRRC, my coach had a 6-3 and club sports with 550/750 spring rates. He had with MPSC's the rear bump set at max and the front at 1/2 (i don't remember how many clicks you have.) and go from there. Call lex at Moton, tell him exactly what you have (spring rates ) and ask for a baseline setting.
I'm from NYC and I'm trying to remember who's out there. Dan Jacob in CT as well as farnbacher loles come to mind.
IRRC, my coach had a 6-3 and club sports with 550/750 spring rates. He had with MPSC's the rear bump set at max and the front at 1/2 (i don't remember how many clicks you have.) and go from there. Call lex at Moton, tell him exactly what you have (spring rates ) and ask for a baseline setting.
I'm from NYC and I'm trying to remember who's out there. Dan Jacob in CT as well as farnbacher loles come to mind.
#27
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#28
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IMO the Carol Smith "Tune to win" series is a good place to learn.
I've seen Formula Continental (almost infinite adjustability) guys get so lost they never find their way out of the woods.
Does Moton have a "baseline" setup for the 996 GT3 shocks ?
Call them and get it.
Start from there.
I've seen Formula Continental (almost infinite adjustability) guys get so lost they never find their way out of the woods.
Does Moton have a "baseline" setup for the 996 GT3 shocks ?
Call them and get it.
Start from there.
#29
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Taking all of these suggestions/opinions into consideration for sure!
Hopefully Monday I can get this info faxed over as I had no luck Thurs/Fri :/
Would any of you get a baseline setup for an already pre setup GT2, such as GMG Racings class winning GT2 with Motons? I think that would be a great idea no? Or should I tailor is to my driving style/needs and so on? At this point, it's my straight up track car, not street car, yet it feels like a luxury cruiser LOL.
We'll see how I can get this rolling Monday!
Hopefully Monday I can get this info faxed over as I had no luck Thurs/Fri :/
Would any of you get a baseline setup for an already pre setup GT2, such as GMG Racings class winning GT2 with Motons? I think that would be a great idea no? Or should I tailor is to my driving style/needs and so on? At this point, it's my straight up track car, not street car, yet it feels like a luxury cruiser LOL.
We'll see how I can get this rolling Monday!
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GMG did my car (the first time) don't bother calling them. Call lex at moton.
Track only? spring rates/camber depend on tires. you want a 2-300 difference f/r I would go with 300 because you're less likely to get in trouble. 175lb helper springs Ask lex about spring lengths, he made a custom set up for me. I think 6in.
800/1100lbs and 2.5 ish camber for DOT-R
1000/1300 or higher and 3.5/3 for slicks.
Canister pressure 150/175lbs
ride height 100/120mm (rake is very important)
Some people have used a higher front spring 1400lbs and up but I dont' understand how that works. besides giving you more traction in the rear.
Track only? spring rates/camber depend on tires. you want a 2-300 difference f/r I would go with 300 because you're less likely to get in trouble. 175lb helper springs Ask lex about spring lengths, he made a custom set up for me. I think 6in.
800/1100lbs and 2.5 ish camber for DOT-R
1000/1300 or higher and 3.5/3 for slicks.
Canister pressure 150/175lbs
ride height 100/120mm (rake is very important)
Some people have used a higher front spring 1400lbs and up but I dont' understand how that works. besides giving you more traction in the rear.