va122

Do you know the conversion from degrees to mm in regards to toe?

I currently have 2mm out/in f/r and think the front is too much and I'm getting bump steer. I got a bump kit from GMG in the garage. I will need to re-align the front end so it's a good time to re-examine the settings.

Roland Kussmaul settings are attached as is an alignment done by GMG (ignore camber settings i'm at 2.6/2.4 f/r now and the GMG alignment was with the stock shocks/springs). Fab told me that they convert to 1mm/3mm f/r I think, and the rear was to get the car to rotate better I was told and it rotated like a top. However the rear bar was 1 off full stiff f/r and now I'm middle front and 1 off full soft in the rear and the moton tripples were dialed in by C. Stanton so it's neutral toward oversteer, with the bar at full soft it was neutral barely toward understeer. No issues with braking stability once the brakes are hot.

I'm told the supercups run 2/4mm out/in f/r

Can you help me to better understand the relationship of toe in the grand scheme of things. here? I have no issues with tire wear (RA-1 at 38/40 hot) and temperature is even across the tires.

Thanks in advance!

DanH

I have no front toe on my car and a little rear toe in. Front toe out makes the car more pointy, but thats absolutely the last thing I need with my setup. All these settings work in conjunction with the damping and roll bars so simply copying the kussmaul setup may not get the results you want. About to soften my rear ARB a bit as I think it will make the car a little less pointy at the front and possibly benefit the rear. Anyway thats my next experiment.

va122

you're right, i just want to be better educated.

NJ-GT

I used 2mm toe-out and 4mm toe-in F/R with the 996 and 997 GT3.

4mm toe-in is equivalent to 5/32" or 0.25 degrees. 2mm toe-out would be like 5/64" or 0.125 degrees.

For AutoX, the top National drivers (Ian/Gary) use little toe-in rear. I used 4mm toe-in rear for autoX/track with a stiffer LSD, no push with toe-out front, but some push with 0 toe front.

My bars set at full stiff rear, one from stiff front for autoX, and stock settings for track. 285/335 or 275/335 tires on 10"/12".

va122

Perfect! thanks guys.

Rad, PM me what car you got

DanH

Ok my understanding is front toe out makes car more pointy, but also more susceptible to camber/bump tracking so not great on a car you also use on the road. Rear toe in is to make the rear a little more stable.

Front/Rear ARB balance also affects over/understeer of the car which is what I'm playing with now - this is called roll coupling if you feel inclined to google.

Bob Rouleau

Rear toe in also helps stability under braking.

va122

Thanks all, Rad told me what i needed to know in his post. Sorry for making the question so confusing.

kgorman

I just wanted to add a bit of data to this thread as I align the rear of my car after adding toe-arm locking plates. Hopefully helpful for folks on how to calculate mm to minutes when doing toe.

Kussmaul rear toe is: Toe total: 35’ +/- 2'

To convert to mm I used the following chart:
http://www.smartracingproducts.com/s...able-cw-v3.pdf

I have stock 18" rims. Thus:

0.1833/.03937 = 4.65mm toe or about 2.3mm per side.

That said, the car was set at 4mm toe in per side in the rear, and 0mm toe at the front before I did the plates. I do like it where it is, but wanted to ensure I document it so I can put it back after the work, and match it up to the Kussmaul setup (what I thought I had before verifying it).