Race Ramps anyone? Need to trailer it..U-Haul
#1
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Hey guys, going out to Grattan Raceway this spring (near Grand Rapids, MI, with Audi Club)...and I've decided to trailer the GT3 this time.. I will be renting a U-Haul car hauler, and have read from some of the other posts here, that it will be necessary to use additional ramps to ease the loading angle (shocker huh?).
Anyone try these on for size:
http://www.raceramps.com/trailerramps.html
I did the simple yard stick test.. and my results indicate that the TR-6 ramp should work. (I found a 5.92 inch vertical measurement, the test calls for 5.75 inches or greater)
This would be quite convienient as the ramps are under 4 foot long...I originally assumed us 2/3 owners would need the longest ramp (close to 5.5 foot in length, which make them not so convienient anymore, IMO).
ANy opinions, suggestions?? Or should I go to Home Depot and pick up some 2x10's and simply mimick these dimensions and save myself over $200 bucks??
Anyone try these on for size:
http://www.raceramps.com/trailerramps.html
I did the simple yard stick test.. and my results indicate that the TR-6 ramp should work. (I found a 5.92 inch vertical measurement, the test calls for 5.75 inches or greater)
This would be quite convienient as the ramps are under 4 foot long...I originally assumed us 2/3 owners would need the longest ramp (close to 5.5 foot in length, which make them not so convienient anymore, IMO).
ANy opinions, suggestions?? Or should I go to Home Depot and pick up some 2x10's and simply mimick these dimensions and save myself over $200 bucks??
#3
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Here's my experience with U-Haul. The car hauler is a very good product and is designed to be able to handle "most" cars. It is built like a tank and heavy as one too. However, this does not mean it can handle your car. In fact, if you call U-Haul and tell them you are hauling a GT3, they will not rent you a car hauler. They have a list of approved cars, and nothing as low as a GT Porsche or Z4 BMW is on the list. I know because I've tried to haul both. I just tell them I'm hauling a Ford Taurus and no one complains.
The problem you will run into is not the ramps. You can park the trailer up to an inclined surface (like a somewhat steep driveway), and load the car without having to buy expensive ramps. You can also buy some 2X10 planks and fashion a "step up" which will fit under the U-Haul ramp where it meets the ground. Remember, the U-Haul ramps are at least 6 feet long. The problem is the "anchor lip" which is used to fasten the car to the hauler. The U-Haul car hauler only uses two web belts on two tires to attach the car to the hauler. These web belts ratchet the tires against a steel lip at the very front of the hauler. This lip is much higher than your front spoiler. One solution is to back the car on, which worked with my Z cars, but I doubt will work on a GT car because of the design of the exhaust. These steel lips are as thick as armor plate, and they will wreak havoc on your exhaust as your car bounces on its suspension.
So my advice is: Go to a U-haul with a tape measure. Check out what I'm talking about. Measure the lip and the height of your exhaust off the ground. In the end, you will have to do what I did. After renting U-haul trailers for a few years, my very low GT2 made me have to buy a flat bed of my own.
The problem you will run into is not the ramps. You can park the trailer up to an inclined surface (like a somewhat steep driveway), and load the car without having to buy expensive ramps. You can also buy some 2X10 planks and fashion a "step up" which will fit under the U-Haul ramp where it meets the ground. Remember, the U-Haul ramps are at least 6 feet long. The problem is the "anchor lip" which is used to fasten the car to the hauler. The U-Haul car hauler only uses two web belts on two tires to attach the car to the hauler. These web belts ratchet the tires against a steel lip at the very front of the hauler. This lip is much higher than your front spoiler. One solution is to back the car on, which worked with my Z cars, but I doubt will work on a GT car because of the design of the exhaust. These steel lips are as thick as armor plate, and they will wreak havoc on your exhaust as your car bounces on its suspension.
So my advice is: Go to a U-haul with a tape measure. Check out what I'm talking about. Measure the lip and the height of your exhaust off the ground. In the end, you will have to do what I did. After renting U-haul trailers for a few years, my very low GT2 made me have to buy a flat bed of my own.
#4
Instructor
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The armor plates on the front can be easily removed. Each is held on by two bolts. Once removed, the front lip should easily clear the remaining lip. I've hauled a lowered Audi that way several times. I've been concerned about the car rolling forward over the remaining lip but as long as the chains are in place and the straps don't loosen up I can't see that happening.
#5
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I used a couple of short section 2 x 10s to elevate the front of my Cayman above those stops (which is what U-Haul recommends). You can see how I did it here: U-haul Transport of Cayman.
I also had some longer 2x10s to use as a graduated ramp, though it turned out with my clearance, I didn't need them. U-Haul didn't give me any grief about hauling a Cayman (except warning about the clearance).
I also had some longer 2x10s to use as a graduated ramp, though it turned out with my clearance, I didn't need them. U-Haul didn't give me any grief about hauling a Cayman (except warning about the clearance).
#7
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Here's my experience with U-Haul. The car hauler is a very good product and is designed to be able to handle "most" cars. It is built like a tank and heavy as one too. However, this does not mean it can handle your car. In fact, if you call U-Haul and tell them you are hauling a GT3, they will not rent you a car hauler. They have a list of approved cars, and nothing as low as a GT Porsche or Z4 BMW is on the list. I know because I've tried to haul both. I just tell them I'm hauling a Ford Taurus and no one complains.
The problem you will run into is not the ramps. You can park the trailer up to an inclined surface (like a somewhat steep driveway), and load the car without having to buy expensive ramps. You can also buy some 2X10 planks and fashion a "step up" which will fit under the U-Haul ramp where it meets the ground. Remember, the U-Haul ramps are at least 6 feet long. The problem is the "anchor lip" which is used to fasten the car to the hauler. The U-Haul car hauler only uses two web belts on two tires to attach the car to the hauler. These web belts ratchet the tires against a steel lip at the very front of the hauler. This lip is much higher than your front spoiler. One solution is to back the car on, which worked with my Z cars, but I doubt will work on a GT car because of the design of the exhaust. These steel lips are as thick as armor plate, and they will wreak havoc on your exhaust as your car bounces on its suspension.
So my advice is: Go to a U-haul with a tape measure. Check out what I'm talking about. Measure the lip and the height of your exhaust off the ground. In the end, you will have to do what I did. After renting U-haul trailers for a few years, my very low GT2 made me have to buy a flat bed of my own.
The problem you will run into is not the ramps. You can park the trailer up to an inclined surface (like a somewhat steep driveway), and load the car without having to buy expensive ramps. You can also buy some 2X10 planks and fashion a "step up" which will fit under the U-Haul ramp where it meets the ground. Remember, the U-Haul ramps are at least 6 feet long. The problem is the "anchor lip" which is used to fasten the car to the hauler. The U-Haul car hauler only uses two web belts on two tires to attach the car to the hauler. These web belts ratchet the tires against a steel lip at the very front of the hauler. This lip is much higher than your front spoiler. One solution is to back the car on, which worked with my Z cars, but I doubt will work on a GT car because of the design of the exhaust. These steel lips are as thick as armor plate, and they will wreak havoc on your exhaust as your car bounces on its suspension.
So my advice is: Go to a U-haul with a tape measure. Check out what I'm talking about. Measure the lip and the height of your exhaust off the ground. In the end, you will have to do what I did. After renting U-haul trailers for a few years, my very low GT2 made me have to buy a flat bed of my own.
Super advice! I definately will be heading down to U-Haul to take some measurements. However, I disagree with your statement about U-Haul not renting the hauler to GT3 owners. I've already placed my reservation, without any issues. Additionally, if you go to their website and input both vehicles information (year, make, model, etc.) of the vehicle doing the towing and vehicle to be towed (in my case, a Dodge Ram and GT3) it tells me that it is a recommended setup, however the special loading techniques will have to be followed. So therefore, the GT3 is on their approved list.
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#8
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I used a couple of short section 2 x 10s to elevate the front of my Cayman above those stops (which is what U-Haul recommends). You can see how I did it here: U-haul Transport of Cayman.
I also had some longer 2x10s to use as a graduated ramp, though it turned out with my clearance, I didn't need them. U-Haul didn't give me any grief about hauling a Cayman (except warning about the clearance).
I also had some longer 2x10s to use as a graduated ramp, though it turned out with my clearance, I didn't need them. U-Haul didn't give me any grief about hauling a Cayman (except warning about the clearance).
#9
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I guess things have changed with U-Haul. Last time I rented a hauler was about 18 months ago. Every car I mentioned to them was "not approved". In fact, they told me that if I used wood to prop the car over the lip, any insurance would be voided. I guess with the economy, they are now allowing all cars and suggesting ways to jerry-rig the hauler to haul low vehicles. At least that's good news for you, since you can now probably get the insurance.
I still recommend backing the car on. I wouldn't suggest removing the lip since it is a vital part of the securing mechanism. If you back the car on you will for sure have to use less "raising wood" (if at all) than if the front has to clear the lip. Also, strapping the rear wheels makes me feel better since (especially with our cars), you avoid any possible effect on the front alignment.
Good luck with it!
I still recommend backing the car on. I wouldn't suggest removing the lip since it is a vital part of the securing mechanism. If you back the car on you will for sure have to use less "raising wood" (if at all) than if the front has to clear the lip. Also, strapping the rear wheels makes me feel better since (especially with our cars), you avoid any possible effect on the front alignment.
Good luck with it!
#10
Instructor
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Backing the car on has another big advantage for GT3s and other 911s; the tongue weight will be higher and the trailer will track much better than if you load frontwise. You may find that it makes the difference between happy towing and scary towing.
#11
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. . . In fact, they told me that if I used wood to prop the car over the lip, any insurance would be voided. I guess with the economy, they are now allowing all cars and suggesting ways to jerry-rig the hauler to haul low vehicles. At least that's good news for you, since you can now probably get the insurance. . .
I wonder if some franchises set their own rules or policies, since I think there is some variation in pricing from one region to another also.
#12
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I tracked the car all last season and backing the car is a HUUUGE advantage for safe driving!!!! before I had some scary moments on the road!