bang for the buck mods
#31
Three Wheelin'
#32
Three Wheelin'
The mod is made up of bolt on components from the 996 RS, RSR race cars and 997's.
To complete this conversion, you'll need the pump, shorter belt, and hoses from Porsche Motorsport. Do you have access to the parts film from Motorsport? Most of the numbers are 997 numbers due to supercession. Last I knew, cost was about $1200 for take-off's removed from a race car.
I believe Viper Bob has done one of these, I personally have only sold the components, hopefully this helps a bit.
To complete this conversion, you'll need the pump, shorter belt, and hoses from Porsche Motorsport. Do you have access to the parts film from Motorsport? Most of the numbers are 997 numbers due to supercession. Last I knew, cost was about $1200 for take-off's removed from a race car.
I believe Viper Bob has done one of these, I personally have only sold the components, hopefully this helps a bit.
Just wondering why they don't put it on the road cars too if they have the parts - is there a downside? It should give a few bhp without the parasitic loss?
Thanks for whatever info you have. Always a mod I wondered about but haven't really seen discussed before.
#33
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Colby, for me it was hard to tell much difference between cup splitter and stock splitter under 130mph...front end feels a little more planted going over the crest into turn one at LS...(read...helps you keep the pedal to the floor)...
#34
Three Wheelin'
Hm... Dont know LS any difference at TH?
#35
GT3 player par excellence
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maybe i am just dense.
i have had oem wing, RS wing, both with 0, 4 and 8 deg shim.
i also have had oem and cup lips.
none of them provided any difference to me at TH, LS, BW, and infineon. top speed at these track is < 140mph.
i have had oem wing, RS wing, both with 0, 4 and 8 deg shim.
i also have had oem and cup lips.
none of them provided any difference to me at TH, LS, BW, and infineon. top speed at these track is < 140mph.
#36
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks guys,
While some of the suggestions are way beyond my stated goal of keeping this a street car with a few mods that provide good value it is still fun to read about them and there has been quite a range of suggestions on this thread. I had heard that the cup splitter doesn't add a lot of downforce but does help (along with lowering the nose a little more than I am willing to do at the moment) funnel more air away from the underside of the car so looking for more opinions on whether that along with rear wing angle adjustments provide noticable improvement.
Also has anyone changed the sway bar links to something with rod ends (I think some of you call those mono *****?) on it? It seems like that would be necessary if you get as far along as trying to set the corner weights accurately.
I will search out brake pads, tires and wheels apart from this thread but if there are any other thoughts feel free to let 'em fly.
Jay
While some of the suggestions are way beyond my stated goal of keeping this a street car with a few mods that provide good value it is still fun to read about them and there has been quite a range of suggestions on this thread. I had heard that the cup splitter doesn't add a lot of downforce but does help (along with lowering the nose a little more than I am willing to do at the moment) funnel more air away from the underside of the car so looking for more opinions on whether that along with rear wing angle adjustments provide noticable improvement.
Also has anyone changed the sway bar links to something with rod ends (I think some of you call those mono *****?) on it? It seems like that would be necessary if you get as far along as trying to set the corner weights accurately.
I will search out brake pads, tires and wheels apart from this thread but if there are any other thoughts feel free to let 'em fly.
Jay
#37
Three Wheelin'
I had heard that the cup splitter doesn't add a lot of downforce but does help (along with lowering the nose a little more than I am willing to do at the moment) funnel more air away from the underside of the car so looking for more opinions on whether that along with rear wing angle adjustments provide noticable improvement.
Mono *****
Are these what you're referring to?
Track wheels depend on your budget. Any of the CCW Corsair wheels would be my choice for pure track wheels. They are among the lightest and strongest you'll find, all for under 3k a set. They however are not the prettiest wheels out there. If you want race proven strength and lightness as well as a nice finish and design you have options from HRE C21 Cups to BBS E88's to a couple different Fikse's. But each of those will run you 5k+ a set.
And depending on your rotor choice, the general consensus seems to be around Pagid and PFC. Good luck!
#38
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The only thing I would add is that the stock rear toe links have been known to move around because of the rubber mounts and also the adjusting mechanism can "let go". For these reasons many of us have replaced the links not only for performance but also for safety. Personally I think it would be a very high priority mod for anyone tracking a GT3.
Others here are knowledgeable about the pros and cons of the different offerings for this part and I am sure they can add alot regarding this particular issue.
Others here are knowledgeable about the pros and cons of the different offerings for this part and I am sure they can add alot regarding this particular issue.
#39
Rennlist Member
I have a question. Why replace the drop links? Unless they break, or your set up requires preload to get corner balanced, I don't see the advantage.
I was at Mid Ohio last weekend, with 8 degree shims and a Cup splitter. A 20 lb. ground hog took out the splitter on Sat. Splitter recoverable...RIP ground hog. On Sun, I set my fastest time. Bottom line...I didn't notice the difference. Speedo read 150 mph on the back straight, but no big turns anywhere above about 90 mph. It is back on now, for faster turns like at Watkins Glen.
I was at Mid Ohio last weekend, with 8 degree shims and a Cup splitter. A 20 lb. ground hog took out the splitter on Sat. Splitter recoverable...RIP ground hog. On Sun, I set my fastest time. Bottom line...I didn't notice the difference. Speedo read 150 mph on the back straight, but no big turns anywhere above about 90 mph. It is back on now, for faster turns like at Watkins Glen.
#40
Instructor
Thread Starter
Chuck, Re drop links--I hadn't seen them mentioned anywhere so I guess that very few people do replace them but it's my experience that fixed length drop links will tend to add preload that will affect the corner weight results--I am not far enough along to worry about that yet. Sorry about yer splitter and I hope the guts clean up wasn't too bad!
Dave, yes I think everyone's consensus is that the rear toe links should be the first thing done.
Carnerd, Thanks for clearing up my parts confusion with great pics!
Not looking to go all out at the present so street tires that are not awful on the track are the current priority, I thought the stock 4 1/2 year old PS2's did a good job given their age. As far as my track experience, Porsche: one seven session weekend at VIR two weeks ago, SCCA 84 to 93 started in SS/B then a year or two of the following SS/GT, C/SR, FA with four years in the middle in S-2000. Since then I have done some sporadic vintage racing but no track events in the last three years due to my late wife's failing health. It was great to finally get out in the GT3 and use it for what it was designed for!! I felt like I was insulting the car just driving it to work once in a while and on the occasional weekend trip. I picked it up in May of 04 and it still has less than 6000 miles on it so I have now sworn an oath to the Porsche gods that I will get it to the track at least three maybe four times in 09 and maybe try to squeeze in another event this year!!
Jay
Dave, yes I think everyone's consensus is that the rear toe links should be the first thing done.
Carnerd, Thanks for clearing up my parts confusion with great pics!
Not looking to go all out at the present so street tires that are not awful on the track are the current priority, I thought the stock 4 1/2 year old PS2's did a good job given their age. As far as my track experience, Porsche: one seven session weekend at VIR two weeks ago, SCCA 84 to 93 started in SS/B then a year or two of the following SS/GT, C/SR, FA with four years in the middle in S-2000. Since then I have done some sporadic vintage racing but no track events in the last three years due to my late wife's failing health. It was great to finally get out in the GT3 and use it for what it was designed for!! I felt like I was insulting the car just driving it to work once in a while and on the occasional weekend trip. I picked it up in May of 04 and it still has less than 6000 miles on it so I have now sworn an oath to the Porsche gods that I will get it to the track at least three maybe four times in 09 and maybe try to squeeze in another event this year!!
Jay
#41
Three Wheelin'
Chuck, Re drop links--I hadn't seen them mentioned anywhere so I guess that very few people do replace them but it's my experience that fixed length drop links will tend to add preload that will affect the corner weight results--I am not far enough along to worry about that yet. Sorry about yer splitter and I hope the guts clean up wasn't too bad!
Dave, yes I think everyone's consensus is that the rear toe links should be the first thing done.
Carnerd, Thanks for clearing up my parts confusion with great pics!
Not looking to go all out at the present so street tires that are not awful on the track are the current priority, I thought the stock 4 1/2 year old PS2's did a good job given their age. As far as my track experience, Porsche: one seven session weekend at VIR two weeks ago, SCCA 84 to 93 started in SS/B then a year or two of the following SS/GT, C/SR, FA with four years in the middle in S-2000. Since then I have done some sporadic vintage racing but no track events in the last three years due to my late wife's failing health. It was great to finally get out in the GT3 and use it for what it was designed for!! I felt like I was insulting the car just driving it to work once in a while and on the occasional weekend trip. I picked it up in May of 04 and it still has less than 6000 miles on it so I have now sworn an oath to the Porsche gods that I will get it to the track at least three maybe four times in 09 and maybe try to squeeze in another event this year!!
Jay
Dave, yes I think everyone's consensus is that the rear toe links should be the first thing done.
Carnerd, Thanks for clearing up my parts confusion with great pics!
Not looking to go all out at the present so street tires that are not awful on the track are the current priority, I thought the stock 4 1/2 year old PS2's did a good job given their age. As far as my track experience, Porsche: one seven session weekend at VIR two weeks ago, SCCA 84 to 93 started in SS/B then a year or two of the following SS/GT, C/SR, FA with four years in the middle in S-2000. Since then I have done some sporadic vintage racing but no track events in the last three years due to my late wife's failing health. It was great to finally get out in the GT3 and use it for what it was designed for!! I felt like I was insulting the car just driving it to work once in a while and on the occasional weekend trip. I picked it up in May of 04 and it still has less than 6000 miles on it so I have now sworn an oath to the Porsche gods that I will get it to the track at least three maybe four times in 09 and maybe try to squeeze in another event this year!!
Jay
If you want to stick with street tires, after you wear the PS2's down try the AD07's. They grip much better than the PS2's and last a good amount over any r-comp. O and definitely get the toe links done.
#42
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chuck, the stock droplinks have pre-load and must be disconnected to corner balance...the advantage of replacing the stock drop links with adjustable links is not only a stronger piece but elimination of the sway bar pre-load...
#43
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997 GT3 is still hydraulic right, so only race cars have them at the moment?
Just wondering why they don't put it on the road cars too if they have the parts - is there a downside? It should give a few bhp without the parasitic loss?
Thanks for whatever info you have. Always a mod I wondered about but haven't really seen discussed before.
Just wondering why they don't put it on the road cars too if they have the parts - is there a downside? It should give a few bhp without the parasitic loss?
Thanks for whatever info you have. Always a mod I wondered about but haven't really seen discussed before.
Right, the street cars are all hydraulic mechanical. The electric version is hydraulic electric, it has a high output pump to move the fluid. Porsche believes the electric pump is better for competition. Advantages I know of are: selection of location for mounting and parasitic power loss as you mentioned.
My guess on the road car situation is all cost and profit, maybe they're afraid of the electric pump for cost issues? You know how auto manufacturers are now, even blessed Bentley has huge plastic bumper covers these days.
#44
Three Wheelin'
Right, the street cars are all hydraulic mechanical. The electric version is hydraulic electric, it has a high output pump to move the fluid. Porsche believes the electric pump is better for competition. Advantages I know of are: selection of location for mounting and parasitic power loss as you mentioned.
My guess on the road car situation is all cost and profit, maybe they're afraid of the electric pump for cost issues? You know how auto manufacturers are now, even blessed Bentley has huge plastic bumper covers these days.
My guess on the road car situation is all cost and profit, maybe they're afraid of the electric pump for cost issues? You know how auto manufacturers are now, even blessed Bentley has huge plastic bumper covers these days.
Of course steering feel is the kind of rubbish us amateurs worry about. In a race car on slicks, you just drive the damn thing and don't worry!
#45
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The drop links are necessary if you lower the car a lot, i had some swaybar binding and upon inspection have bent the subframe where they attach to those plates that look like boomerangs until I replaced them with longer ones. (chime in Austin) but I'm down to cup ride height. Some shop...did not think to tell me about this and I had to take the car apart to figure it out. Do I sound bitter?