speedread

What mechanical failures can you expect to encounter when frequently driving a GT3 agressively (not abusively) at the track?

Moogle

Many members here including myself track the car frequently. From what I've read and from my experience, the car is incredibly solid -

Perhaps the only barrier you face is the prospect of your dealer voiding your warranty.

Other than that, I've only had to do fluid flushes, and replace pads/rotors/tires - all acceptable wear items.

Oh yeah, and the lower parts of the car, such as the brake ducts and spoiler lips frequently require replacement due to road damage or simply tearing off.

Austin

It's rare to see a single point of failure from track usage, these cars are robust. Most commonly, the few weaker points of the car are uncovered.

First: Do configure the car and yourself with the correct safety equipment, ie roll bar, harnesses, seats that permit proper harness usage, good helmet, and HANS.

Suspension is the primary focus of track wear, the GT3 has softer (from a track or race perspective) suspension and features several rubber components that will flex to yield actively changing alignment settings.

Most people find brakes to wear quickly as well, there are options readily available in the form of pads, rotors, and cooling.

Aero is another frequent discussion point, additional downforce via wings, rake, front nose, and splitter can greatly assist with stability and handling.

Gearing may also pop up in discussion now and then, the GT3 box is geared tall, it has long legs that will take you to around 190mph. There are options here too. We re-gear our 996 and 997's frequently, for track and weather. There is also a significant ramp on the LSD, it requires a good deal of traction to function at its best.


Anyway, if you're considering purchasing at GT3 license plate car and going to the track, you're already on the right track!



Austin

cosmos

Wheel bearing failures, diffs blowing out, 3rd gear syncro issue, upgrade rear bushings to solid, brake lines, brake ducts, windsheild (i replaced 3 of them), thats pretty much it as far as mechanical stuff that goes bad. Car is bullet proof. Oh FYI stay away from Type II conditions.

Along with all the usual stuff.

Moogle

upgrading suspension will definitely help from a wear perspective

Moton clubsports or RS suspension (with metal instead of rubber mounting)

Carrera GT

I haven't heard of these items as points of failure. Upgrading bushings and mounts to solid can be an advantage but a bit pricey and mostly irrelevant until you start reach or exceed the limits of an already very challenging car.

I have seen rear toe arm problems. Various after-market manufacturers have solutions.

Pressed hard on the track, the steel brakes need attention. Cup car cooling deflectors are an easy tweak to improve cooling, but only a band-aid. Gen I PCCBs are notorious.

I'd second the comment on safety gear. Get a roll bar (DAS or the like) with appropriate seat, harnesses and if you have the budget go for a HANS setup.

Moogle

Apparently gen2 PCCBs fit the GT3, but there is really no point - a good floating setup from brembo is slightly cheaper and so much stronger. - and incidentally the same weight

Ed Newman

Most common point of failure on a GT3 is the driver, which often results in the car being magnetically attracted to the nearest guard rail.

Make sure you know how to set up the suspension on the car and know how the devil that lurks in this type of car before you take it on the track. The list of those in our region who have met the wall is much longer than those who have not.

Paul SLC

The most common problem is the insufficient cooling for the front rotors, a poor design imo. The factory steel rotors are toast every 1,000 track miles or so.

Bob Rouleau

No track related failures on mine after 24,000 miles. Rotors do need replacing more often than on the older cars. GEN 1 PCCB are bad news on track. Replace with 997 cup car rotors in back and 996 cup car rotors in front and life is good.

cosmos

Bob,

You have not replaced any wheel bearings in 24k track miles!!!??? WOW. I went through two in 12k track miles. Car had little over 18k miles total.

The other things mentioned where obvious things like the Diff, winsheild, and the 3rd gear syncro issue did not occur with me, but I have heard of it being an issue.

mooty

wheel bearing, every 14k miles or so, the front goes.

vegasgolf98

Stock front rotors lasted me 1,000 miles, AP floating hats were my replacement choice and I have 8,000 track miles on them and no issues!! Quite a bargain.

That's it for me so far.

Bob Rouleau

Cos - no wheel bearing issues. I was thinking about replacing them just in case. My wife lost a right front wheel bearing, very odd since our local track stresses the left front.

I have had a fuek pump fail - not on track. I blew a hose off the water pump (on track) and that's it. Spurious check engine lights, seem to be caused by bad fuel.

Mike K had a failure, he fried his catss. See his post elsewhere in this thread.

Best,

rdstemler

I can vouch for the driver being the weakest part in my car!!