Some wear experience on MPSC's. Curious of other's experiences.
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 744
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just mounted my 3rd set of MPSC's. This is how the first 2 sets went:
Set 1: Total of 3,340 miles. 6 track days, total track miles 895.
Set 2: Total of 2,425 miles. 6 track days, total track miles 845.
Both sets wore down to the same amount - through the wear indicators. Inside groove is still there (somewhat), outside grooves and slashes completely gone (slicks). From the look of it I could still use more negative camber (running 2.5 and 1.8).
The second set wore quicker on the track (I think) because as I've gained more confidence and skill in this car I've gone quicker and pushed harder.
Frankly, I'm happy with 6 track days - based upon my plans that about 3 sets, maybe 3.5 sets per year.
I supposed that I could have pushed one more track day out of them (depending upon the track) but since the next day is at a high speed track (WSIR) I didn't want to risk getting to the cords.
The wear described is on the rears - the fronts were less worn but I replace all 4 tires together.
-Kevin
Set 1: Total of 3,340 miles. 6 track days, total track miles 895.
Set 2: Total of 2,425 miles. 6 track days, total track miles 845.
Both sets wore down to the same amount - through the wear indicators. Inside groove is still there (somewhat), outside grooves and slashes completely gone (slicks). From the look of it I could still use more negative camber (running 2.5 and 1.8).
The second set wore quicker on the track (I think) because as I've gained more confidence and skill in this car I've gone quicker and pushed harder.
Frankly, I'm happy with 6 track days - based upon my plans that about 3 sets, maybe 3.5 sets per year.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I supposed that I could have pushed one more track day out of them (depending upon the track) but since the next day is at a high speed track (WSIR) I didn't want to risk getting to the cords.
The wear described is on the rears - the fronts were less worn but I replace all 4 tires together.
-Kevin
![](http://images8.fotki.com/v139/photos/7/70977/1618165/CIMG0272-vi.jpg)
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: is as location does
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by 4 Kurves
I just mounted my 3rd set of MPSC's. This is how the first 2 sets went:
Set 1: Total of 3,340 miles. 6 track days, total track miles 895.
Set 2: Total of 2,425 miles. 6 track days, total track miles 845.
Both sets wore down to the same amount - through the wear indicators. Inside groove is still there (somewhat), outside grooves and slashes completely gone (slicks). From the look of it I could still use more negative camber (running 2.5 and 1.8).
The second set wore quicker on the track (I think) because as I've gained more confidence and skill in this car I've gone quicker and pushed harder.
Frankly, I'm happy with 6 track days - based upon my plans that about 3 sets, maybe 3.5 sets per year.
I supposed that I could have pushed one more track day out of them (depending upon the track) but since the next day is at a high speed track (WSIR) I didn't want to risk getting to the cords.
The wear described is on the rears - the fronts were less worn but I replace all 4 tires together.
Set 1: Total of 3,340 miles. 6 track days, total track miles 895.
Set 2: Total of 2,425 miles. 6 track days, total track miles 845.
Both sets wore down to the same amount - through the wear indicators. Inside groove is still there (somewhat), outside grooves and slashes completely gone (slicks). From the look of it I could still use more negative camber (running 2.5 and 1.8).
The second set wore quicker on the track (I think) because as I've gained more confidence and skill in this car I've gone quicker and pushed harder.
Frankly, I'm happy with 6 track days - based upon my plans that about 3 sets, maybe 3.5 sets per year.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I supposed that I could have pushed one more track day out of them (depending upon the track) but since the next day is at a high speed track (WSIR) I didn't want to risk getting to the cords.
The wear described is on the rears - the fronts were less worn but I replace all 4 tires together.
absolutely more negative camber. go at least 2.5 front and rear..i run 3 front and 2.7 rear. MPSC like negative camber with a max of 4 degrees fot this particular tire
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 744
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by JLJ
absolutely more negative camber. go at least 2.5 front and rear..i run 3 front and 2.7 rear. MPSC like negative camber with a max of 4 degrees fot this particular tire
#4
Keeper of the Truth
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by 4 Kurves
At the time the camber was changed they said this was the most they could get. Perhaps I need to to a race shop?
![](http://www.carnewal-europe.com/cpx/p96154.jpg)
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: is as location does
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
4 Kurvers:
You need camber at the rear. Shims are only applicable at the front. 2.5 negative front is pretty much maxed out for the factory suspension setup. At the rear you can go to 3.5 without modifications (I did it).
Installing shims move the front tires toward the front fenders really bad. Last time I tried 12mm shims (7+2+2+1), I could not even turn the steering wheel, and I had to uninstall them immediately.
Either drilling the camber holes or rotating the upper strut mount studs (which I did) is the way to go, to prevent rubbing issues running 6mm shims or more.
You need camber at the rear. Shims are only applicable at the front. 2.5 negative front is pretty much maxed out for the factory suspension setup. At the rear you can go to 3.5 without modifications (I did it).
Installing shims move the front tires toward the front fenders really bad. Last time I tried 12mm shims (7+2+2+1), I could not even turn the steering wheel, and I had to uninstall them immediately.
Either drilling the camber holes or rotating the upper strut mount studs (which I did) is the way to go, to prevent rubbing issues running 6mm shims or more.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am getting about the same mileage as you did on your first set, but I'm doing more track miles, around 1,400 in a total of 3,700 miles. (However I'm around 10 seconds a lap slower than you! :-))
FWIW I'm running -2.5 all round, and getting very even wear, so based on your faster pace I'd say try -3 all round for the next set. From Feb 1st Wheel Enhancements will be set up to do full alignment work. They are also campaigning a Cup car this year to help promote theeir biz locally, and I have been really happy with the way they have looked after me when other shops have dropped the ball. If you need it done right away I'd recommend either Darren at West End Alignmaent or possibly Johnson's Alignment in Torrance as being the best places to do your set up.
NB: some shops who have the top of the line Hunter machines don't always have the experience to use them properly. I have seen a set of MPSC's corded in just two track days by improper set up from a shop with a Hunter. Having the best tool doesn't gaurantee who'll have the best user, so be sure who ever you go to is doing a lot of race prep work.
FWIW I'm running -2.5 all round, and getting very even wear, so based on your faster pace I'd say try -3 all round for the next set. From Feb 1st Wheel Enhancements will be set up to do full alignment work. They are also campaigning a Cup car this year to help promote theeir biz locally, and I have been really happy with the way they have looked after me when other shops have dropped the ball. If you need it done right away I'd recommend either Darren at West End Alignmaent or possibly Johnson's Alignment in Torrance as being the best places to do your set up.
NB: some shops who have the top of the line Hunter machines don't always have the experience to use them properly. I have seen a set of MPSC's corded in just two track days by improper set up from a shop with a Hunter. Having the best tool doesn't gaurantee who'll have the best user, so be sure who ever you go to is doing a lot of race prep work.
Trending Topics
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 744
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks everyone for the info - I agree I need more camber.
Andrew - where is West End Alignment? Closer then Torrence I hope?
Interesting news about Wheel Alignment - I may wait on them as I was impressed with the way they do things.
So if I have more camber I'll have more rubber on the road and go faster in corners.
More speed - yikes!
Andrew - where is West End Alignment? Closer then Torrence I hope?
Interesting news about Wheel Alignment - I may wait on them as I was impressed with the way they do things.
So if I have more camber I'll have more rubber on the road and go faster in corners.
More speed - yikes!
#10
Keeper of the Truth
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by macfly
NB: some shops who have the top of the line Hunter machines don't always have the experience to use them properly. I have seen a set of MPSC's corded in just two track days by improper set up from a shop with a Hunter. Having the best tool doesn't gaurantee who'll have the best user, so be sure who ever you go to is doing a lot of race prep work.
#11
Still plays with cars.
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
One more confirmation that camber shims are NOT a good idea. They push the wheels forward (increase caster) and the tires rub when you turn the wheel - even worse if you back up. Easiest is to make the camber adjustment holes at the top of the shock mount a little more oval than the factory does. It's a 10 minute job with a dremel or die grinder. I run neg 2.5 in front and neg 2.4 in back and wear is even. I can't say much about the MPSC as I used them only once. My standard is the P0 Corsa because it rains around here![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I think neg 1.8 in back is too little for a hard driven GT3.
Rgds,
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I think neg 1.8 in back is too little for a hard driven GT3.
Rgds,
#12
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Back in the old days, when the Germans bothered to design cars properly, you could adjust the camber and only the camber. Now 996s have two camber adjustments, both of which screw up everything else.
But seriously, don't GT3's have the rubber bushings with the alternative bolt hole in the front control arms? When you run a bunch of shims, you just install the bolt for the diagonal link in the forward hole. The reduces the caster back to some (hopefully correct, since it is not adjustable) reasonable amount.
I am not in favor of elongating the top holes in the shock tower. (It is shameful that the slots are even there, this kind of thing is for Camaros and such). Using the camber shims and fixing the caster with the alternate bolt hole will increase the front track, which can only help. Moving the shock top around is adjusting a great number of things, all in the wrong direction.
Somebody should mention as well that adding negative camber, with shims or otherwise, changes the toe a HUGE amount. Don't be tempted to make a camber adjustment without checking the toe.
Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports
But seriously, don't GT3's have the rubber bushings with the alternative bolt hole in the front control arms? When you run a bunch of shims, you just install the bolt for the diagonal link in the forward hole. The reduces the caster back to some (hopefully correct, since it is not adjustable) reasonable amount.
I am not in favor of elongating the top holes in the shock tower. (It is shameful that the slots are even there, this kind of thing is for Camaros and such). Using the camber shims and fixing the caster with the alternate bolt hole will increase the front track, which can only help. Moving the shock top around is adjusting a great number of things, all in the wrong direction.
Somebody should mention as well that adding negative camber, with shims or otherwise, changes the toe a HUGE amount. Don't be tempted to make a camber adjustment without checking the toe.
Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports
#13
Keeper of the Truth
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by NJ-GT
Installing shims move the front tires toward the front fenders really bad. Last time I tried 12mm shims (7+2+2+1), I could not even turn the steering wheel, and I had to uninstall them immediately.
#14
Instructor
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wilton, CT USA
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
best solution if you know you don't want less than 2.5 neg front camber is to rotate the struts. there is another set of holes on the struts to use to do this (i believe the alternative holes are color coded and are about a 60 degree rotation - just jack a front wheel up and you will see what i'm saying). i think then you have a range of 2.5-4.0/5.0 neg.
btw - this is how the cup cars are delivered
btw - this is how the cup cars are delivered
#15
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you are in Las Vegas (for Spring Mountain or LVMS) I recommend Kent Moore at Premier Sportscar Service. He was the crew chief for Peterson Motorsports/White Lighting (won Le Mans 2003 and 2004). He is a magician, nice guy and is very, very reasonable price-wise. (702) 649-8267
Tell him Philip recommending you and he will add 20% to the quote -Just kidding.
If you want or care what the motorsports boys are doing to solve track problems he is a great resource.
My GT3 is over there now getting tweaked after a little 4 wheel off-road action at the Track last weekend. My car is much better than the driver unfortunately.
Tell him Philip recommending you and he will add 20% to the quote -Just kidding.
If you want or care what the motorsports boys are doing to solve track problems he is a great resource.
My GT3 is over there now getting tweaked after a little 4 wheel off-road action at the Track last weekend. My car is much better than the driver unfortunately.