Delivery Checklist for New GT3
#1
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My GT3 may be at the dealer for pick up as early as Wednesday. That is sooner than I had anticipated, but really good news. Here is what is on my mental list to do when I collect the car from the dealer:
1. Look for the shipping spacers in the suspension coils to confirm that they were removed in dealer prep. (At least one time they were not.)
2. Check tire pressure.
3. Take the car to a shop to have the alignment checked and the car corner balanced (me or similar weight in the driver's seat and 1/2 tank of gas). Should I wait for the breakin to be done before this because the suspension will settle? Should I wait on the corner balancing until I'm closer to a Spring track/autocross day when I have the GT3 seats installed? For my area, I've heard good things of Doughterty Automotive Services in West Chester and Performance Automotive in Malvern.
4. Have a clear bra installed. Apparently Doughterty Automotive Services can arrange for this, too.
5. Update my holiday wish list to include the console delete (I just think I won't like the CD holders) and GT3 seats. The DAS rollover bar, too, with a harness.
What am I missing for EARLY things to check and do?
1. Look for the shipping spacers in the suspension coils to confirm that they were removed in dealer prep. (At least one time they were not.)
2. Check tire pressure.
3. Take the car to a shop to have the alignment checked and the car corner balanced (me or similar weight in the driver's seat and 1/2 tank of gas). Should I wait for the breakin to be done before this because the suspension will settle? Should I wait on the corner balancing until I'm closer to a Spring track/autocross day when I have the GT3 seats installed? For my area, I've heard good things of Doughterty Automotive Services in West Chester and Performance Automotive in Malvern.
4. Have a clear bra installed. Apparently Doughterty Automotive Services can arrange for this, too.
5. Update my holiday wish list to include the console delete (I just think I won't like the CD holders) and GT3 seats. The DAS rollover bar, too, with a harness.
What am I missing for EARLY things to check and do?
#2
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big things:
1. make sure the car isn't damaged.
2. check to see everything is the way you wanted it
3. pay/final paperwork![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
4. set up insurance
small things:
1. have them set the door locks to your liking
2. clear side markers (should be free)
3. license plate frame to replace the dealer's (should be free)
4. keychain (should be free)
5. bumperplugs! (mine came with a set, if yours doesnt, bumperplugs.com)
i'm probably forgetting alot of important things, but this is what i did, as you can tell, im mostly concerned with pumping the dealer for free stuff.
i got a bunch of stuff from their selection store too, useless stuff, stuff i won't ever use, but hey, it was free.
i hope to see where this thread goes, so i can do whatever i missed
1. make sure the car isn't damaged.
2. check to see everything is the way you wanted it
3. pay/final paperwork
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
4. set up insurance
small things:
1. have them set the door locks to your liking
2. clear side markers (should be free)
3. license plate frame to replace the dealer's (should be free)
4. keychain (should be free)
5. bumperplugs! (mine came with a set, if yours doesnt, bumperplugs.com)
i'm probably forgetting alot of important things, but this is what i did, as you can tell, im mostly concerned with pumping the dealer for free stuff.
i got a bunch of stuff from their selection store too, useless stuff, stuff i won't ever use, but hey, it was free.
i hope to see where this thread goes, so i can do whatever i missed
#4
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as far as i know: the only 'option' is to have them lock as soon as the car hits 5mph. otherwise they only lock if you press the button
this should be free at any dealer.
PS, do you have AOL messenger?
this should be free at any dealer.
PS, do you have AOL messenger?
#5
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Originally Posted by Moogle
as far as i know: the only 'option' is to have them lock as soon as the car hits 5mph. otherwise they only lock if you press the button
this should be free at any dealer.
PS, do you have AOL messenger?
this should be free at any dealer.
PS, do you have AOL messenger?
I don't have AOL anything.
#6
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Ask for a ECU print out to ensure that the engine has not been on the rev limiter in stage 1 and exceeded it in stage 2 before you take delivery.
Leave the geometry until the car has a few miles on it to allow everything to settle.
P.
Leave the geometry until the car has a few miles on it to allow everything to settle.
P.
#7
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Originally Posted by Mr. RS
Ask for a ECU print out to ensure that the engine has not been on the rev limiter in stage 1 and exceeded it in stage 2 before you take delivery.
Leave the geometry until the car has a few miles on it to allow everything to settle.
P.
Leave the geometry until the car has a few miles on it to allow everything to settle.
P.
I was thinking the suspension would need to settle a bit, and it will just get street use for breakin and then some. How many miles would you give it before an alignment? I'm a bit spooked by all the stories here of misalignment, including rear wheel toe out. I guess on the street and highway it might not be as big a deal.
I'm also thinking of a 500+ mile day trip the first weekend that I get it. I should be able to heat cycle the engine (warm to operating temperature and then cool completely, such as overnight) perhaps four times before that trip. Any thoughts on that?
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#8
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Stage 1 is someone not shifting fast enough to avoid the rev limiter and encountering the fuel cutoff.
Stage 2 is someone downshifting to the wrong gear and physically over-reving the motor.
Stage 2 is someone downshifting to the wrong gear and physically over-reving the motor.
#10
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Just got an e-mail that the boat docked yesterday at Baltimore so my GT3 will be deliverable this week! Below part of the e-mail I plan to send back. Any comments?
There are a couple of things I'm thinking about:
1. For many GT3s the alignment from the factory seems to be highly variable and generally off spec. As part of your standard setup do you check the alignment, including height (the GT3s coming to the US seem to be 10mm higher than spec)? One fellow had a factory toe out setting on the rear wheels of his GT3.
2. Have you already been able to collect the collapsible spare tire, compressor and other related items?
3. What do you suggest for the first oil and filter change? Sooner than the 15,000 miles that I think the factory recommends?
4. When I take delivery I'd like to get an ECU printout.
5. There are a few modifications that I'm pretty sure I'll want to make soon if not immediately. Please give me pricing on:
clear side markers
GT3 seats--leather or fabric
shims for the spoiler (4/8 degree)
clear bra
console delete
There are a couple of things I'm thinking about:
1. For many GT3s the alignment from the factory seems to be highly variable and generally off spec. As part of your standard setup do you check the alignment, including height (the GT3s coming to the US seem to be 10mm higher than spec)? One fellow had a factory toe out setting on the rear wheels of his GT3.
2. Have you already been able to collect the collapsible spare tire, compressor and other related items?
3. What do you suggest for the first oil and filter change? Sooner than the 15,000 miles that I think the factory recommends?
4. When I take delivery I'd like to get an ECU printout.
5. There are a few modifications that I'm pretty sure I'll want to make soon if not immediately. Please give me pricing on:
clear side markers
GT3 seats--leather or fabric
shims for the spoiler (4/8 degree)
clear bra
console delete
#11
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You might also consider getting some extra plastic rivets for the front lower lip spoiler. You're going to need them if you have any ramps to go up or down on. Or you might remove the lip for every day driving, as I've done, and replace it for track or serious (ie. non-legal) highway driving.
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As for mileage, winter is coming and as you live in good old PA I dont expect you will be attending many track days or infact using the car much once the snow comes!
Remember that it is quite easy to knock the geometry out of alignment, on the cup cars they check and adjust it when the cars go out and come back in again. Therefore get the dealer to set it to factory spec and wait until the new season starts before getting a good set up on the car.
As for oil change, I did mine after a 1000 miles and again after every third track day. It is cheap cover and doesnt make me feel so guilty about wringing its neck in every gear...
As for running without the front lip...NO! I did it once and the car became very unsettled and light on the front end at quite low speeds, sub 85mph.
Treat it as a consumable along with the brake ducts.
Enjoy it!
P.
Remember that it is quite easy to knock the geometry out of alignment, on the cup cars they check and adjust it when the cars go out and come back in again. Therefore get the dealer to set it to factory spec and wait until the new season starts before getting a good set up on the car.
As for oil change, I did mine after a 1000 miles and again after every third track day. It is cheap cover and doesnt make me feel so guilty about wringing its neck in every gear...
As for running without the front lip...NO! I did it once and the car became very unsettled and light on the front end at quite low speeds, sub 85mph.
Treat it as a consumable along with the brake ducts.
Enjoy it!
P.
#13
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Highs this week expected to be almost 60 F.! I plan on a weekend trip out to western PA and back to do half my breakin, and then the rest over the following week. But you are right that there are rough roads here and I need to let the suspension settle before a corner balance and alignment for the track. I'll try to get the dealer to check the alignment and then sit tight until spring and the first track day!
#15
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Originally Posted by Moogle
PS. i don't believe there is any sort of spare tire, collapsable or not. just a can of fix-a-flat goo.