Alignment & Set Up
#31
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Originally Posted by cosmos
I am not the Viken, but, Yes, the same.
#36
Originally Posted by frayed
Just a follow-up question. Doesn't rotation of the strut hats to get more camber mess up caster?
Edit: one more comment. Measuring caster accurately appears to be more difficult than camber and toe. So if you switch alignment shops, or even go back to the same one, you do tend to see variations in caster measurements. So some of the reported variations may well be due to unstable measurement rather than any real change on the car. Or both.
Last edited by mds; 05-05-2005 at 02:42 PM.
#37
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To continue the discussion... I'm getting my car aligned tomorrow. I have all the shims to get the front end to the 2.4-2.5 negative I want. Is there a consensus about what is the best way to achieve this amount of front camber? Is it better to swap the hats and do without the shims or is it better to use the factory shims? Does it even matter one way or the other?
#38
ringmeister, some cars with rotated strut tops can not be adjusted into the 2.4-2.5 range. The minimum ends up being 2.6-2.8, it varies with the car. If the car has no Bi-Xenon headlights, the factory 1mm shims can be removed which will lower the minimum, but it still may be larger than 2.5. On cars with Bi-Xenons, these thin factory shims cannot be remove since on one side of the car the shim supports the headlight vertical adjustment sensor arm. So if you really do want 2.4-2.5 and can accept no more, I suggest using shims. If you think you can live with 2.6-2.8 and think you might even want more eventually, then rotate the tops.
#39
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Thanks Mike. My car has the Xenons. Looks like I will be going with the shims. FWIW, I'm going to be running the Sport Cups so I think 2.5 is probably a decent number.
-Gary
-Gary