Alignment & Set Up
#16
Hey guys not to hijack the thread but I am running -2 in the rear. Upon a break in a canyon run drive this last friday, I noticed CORD showing!! The innner most part of the tire was burned through and I mean inner most. Might this be due to a greater than normal toe in with -2??? I thought it was perfectly fine to run that much camber and get quasi decent wear? I need to get two new rears now . BTW I am running -1f and-2r, offhand I don't know what we set the toe at but I usually set it almost at 0 front and don't know what it was rear. Thanks for any suggestions.
#17
The 1999 GT3 settings are identical to the regular 2004 GT3 settings (not the GT3 RS settings) except for the following:
Front axle height: 112 - 10mm (112 to 102mm)
Rear axle height: 125 + 10mm (125 to 135mm)
Front sway bar: position 3 (center position)
Rear sway bar: position 2 (second softest position)
The GT3 RS uses these sway bar settings also, they are 1 hole softer than the regular 2004 GT3.
Front axle height: 112 - 10mm (112 to 102mm)
Rear axle height: 125 + 10mm (125 to 135mm)
Front sway bar: position 3 (center position)
Rear sway bar: position 2 (second softest position)
The GT3 RS uses these sway bar settings also, they are 1 hole softer than the regular 2004 GT3.
#21
Z06,
The PS Cup is a poor autoX tire. It's an excellent DE/Lapping day tire, but it does not heat up fast enough for Solo competition. If your primary motorsport activity is Solo, consider Kumhos, Dunlops, or even the stock street tire, if you have to drive to the events. If you can change wheels at the event then, Hoosiers will make a serious dent in your times.
Robin
The PS Cup is a poor autoX tire. It's an excellent DE/Lapping day tire, but it does not heat up fast enough for Solo competition. If your primary motorsport activity is Solo, consider Kumhos, Dunlops, or even the stock street tire, if you have to drive to the events. If you can change wheels at the event then, Hoosiers will make a serious dent in your times.
Robin
#24
Originally Posted by DealMan
if you rotate the front shock mounts, you can easily achieve -2.0 camber without any shims. There are pre-pressed holes in the sheet metal that need to be "punched" out first.
Question for Viken...What is TOE UNPRESSED?
__________________
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
#25
gtdrei,
I have used the MPSC in mid July with great success on a very technical track, lots of turns......in the past i have found the Kuhmo to be an excellent Solo 1 tire, may try it again this summer.
I have used the MPSC in mid July with great success on a very technical track, lots of turns......in the past i have found the Kuhmo to be an excellent Solo 1 tire, may try it again this summer.
#27
Viken, thanks for posting the factory specs (I always know where to come to get a print-out!) ...
And "un-pressed comes from the days when Porsche published "pressed" numbers -- this means (front axle only) taking readings with a press-rod (a spring-loaded stick) pushing out the front tires to simulate the effective position of the front wheels under acceleration (yes, the suspension would also be more extended, but these are specs compensated to DIN weight and balance on the alignment rack) or heavy deceleration. For whatever reason (mainly by influence from the alignment equipment companies and the slow processes and potentially variable operator behaviour using a press rod) Porsche went to the conventional un-pressed number. In older 911's, the difference can be significant -- getting it wrong will obviously destroy a tire in very few miles and potentially create wild handling ... hence the ongoing liability-averse behaviour of publishing a redundant word like "unpressed."
And inside shoulder wear on the rear of a 996, especially the GT3 is very likely insufficient toe -- or at least zero toe. When you put on new tires, use correct specs and monitor pressure and temperature across three points to avoid wasting tires.
Cheers,
And "un-pressed comes from the days when Porsche published "pressed" numbers -- this means (front axle only) taking readings with a press-rod (a spring-loaded stick) pushing out the front tires to simulate the effective position of the front wheels under acceleration (yes, the suspension would also be more extended, but these are specs compensated to DIN weight and balance on the alignment rack) or heavy deceleration. For whatever reason (mainly by influence from the alignment equipment companies and the slow processes and potentially variable operator behaviour using a press rod) Porsche went to the conventional un-pressed number. In older 911's, the difference can be significant -- getting it wrong will obviously destroy a tire in very few miles and potentially create wild handling ... hence the ongoing liability-averse behaviour of publishing a redundant word like "unpressed."
And inside shoulder wear on the rear of a 996, especially the GT3 is very likely insufficient toe -- or at least zero toe. When you put on new tires, use correct specs and monitor pressure and temperature across three points to avoid wasting tires.
Cheers,
#28
Solo tires
I have used the MPSC in mid July with great success on a very technical track, lots of turns......in the past i have found the Kuhmo to be an excellent Solo 1 tire, may try it again this summer.