Karl S

Chris,

The jack points are the same on all 996s. The fronts are located inside the frame rail just behind the front wheels. The rears are also inside the frame rail just in front of the rear wheels. They're pretty obvious when you look.

Karl

Phokaioglaukos

Thanks again, Karl.

When lifting the rear with a jack on the engine, is there an obvious place for the jack pad to go?

skl

I use a lo profile jack from Ultimate Garage (can't remember the name but it's blue). Pelican sells them now. They're made to fit under low cars and have a long reach. Also Ultimate sells some really nice jack stands with rubber pads that work very well. They are not cheap, but then neither are our cars. Much better than the junk from Target or the car parts places. They have wide circular metal pads that spread out the weight on the garage floor as well. Luckily I have a pit in the garage (learned this was a good solution since I've been playing with Porsches since 1971 and a lot is done from underneath!) so I usually only jack it up when I'm changing wheels or cleaning the wheels and wheel wells...

Larry Herman

The aluminum 4000 lb Craftsman jack works perfectly on a GT3, is a quality unit and costs $199.

Viken

Yes, I bought one last year on sale for $180 and couldn't be happier. However, I think that model is now discontinued and replaced with this one which is an aluminum/steel version. I think it's practically the same except for the heavier weight and lower price.

Viken

Sorry, I stand corrected. Looks like the all-aluminum jack is still available at Sears. It just didn't appear on the main floor jack page when I first looked.

Karl S

Yes, you place the jack pad (I use a rubber one for this task) under the exact center of the block, where the two halves are bolted together. If you look, you'll see the case begins at an angle and then flattens out parallel to the ground. This place where it flattens out has a thick metal where the two halves come together. Get the jack pad under this and you'll have a safe place to jack.

Be careful if jacking the rear with the front wheels on the ground that you don't tilt the nose of the car into the pavement and crack the front splitter lip. The rear doesn't have to go that high when the front wheels are on the ground to hit the splitter.

Karl

Phokaioglaukos

This is an excellent point. I plan to follow rockitman's procedure so that the rear will come up only after the front is on jack stands. I guess there is a risk that until the rear is safely on jack stands too that the car could roll off to the front, and that would be very bad, but I expect that the front stands will not be so high as to make that a substantial risk. I'll have to be careful.

Thanks again for the help. I think I have a clear idea how to do this now. All I need is the car and enough miles to need to change the oil!

Jack

The name is.....AC Hydraulic. Lowest jack pad saddle of all brands, even the Griot's/Sears/Harbor Freight aluminum jack.

GTEE3

Porsche makes a bolt-on jack point for the GT2, which also works for the GT3 and Cup.
It is cheap ($25), and bolts to the front bottom of the engine....this is the only rec. jack point on the engine. Do not lift/support the rear of the car by any of the cross-member susp. pieces.

rockitman

Thanks, but "mds" Mike should get the credit. He was kind enough to respond to my jacking question last Fall.

Phokaioglaukos

Any idea where I can find a part number for this item? Have you used it? It sounds just like what I should have.

Racerron

FYI the factory recommends allowing the oil to drain for at least 20 minutes before replacing the drain plugs.

GTEE3

Chris, I have one on my '01 Cup car, and just ordered one for my GT3.
easy to install, and use. part # 996 101 206 70, plus a bolt and nut. try TRG, or,
call Dave Bottom at Arlan Mtrspts 805 541 9777.

Phokaioglaukos

Thanks, koepke! That sounds like a useful early purchase.