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Old 10-11-2004, 05:29 PM
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ringmeister
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Larry, I'm going to look into shorter front arms and smaller pads for mine. The main problem is that the arms are too long and the area of the pads is pretty big as well even though they do screw up and down. The 9000lbs. capacity probably is what warrants all the big components. I just thought is was funny that the GT3 was harder to get on than the five BMW race cars I have owned over the years and they were pretty darn low. Thanks for the info!
As for doing it without jacking up the car, I looked at that but I'm too fat to get under there to reach the oil tank. LOL
Old 10-11-2004, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
My lift, a Franklin SL9000 (goes by Powerex also) is assymetrical, with shorter front arms, and has a 30/70 max load ratio.
Larry, I'm not finding this lift under either name on the web. Can you give me a pointer or suggest a vendor or quote an approximate price? Does it require in-floor installation?
Old 10-11-2004, 11:09 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by rockitman
Place jack under engine, the 4x4's under the rear wheels provide sufficient space to get the jack under the car.
I'm guess, but please confirm, that even a low rise jack will not fit for this last step with the 4x4s. Thanks, rockitman.
Old 10-11-2004, 11:22 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Phokaioglaukos
I'm guess, but please confirm, that even a low rise jack will not fit for this last step with the 4x4s. Thanks, rockitman.
Works for me. I guess it all depends how high you make the floor jacks...in particular the ones in front. I have no trouble slipping the dk20 jack under the rear bumper so the jack pad goes under the crankcase...
Old 10-11-2004, 11:54 PM
  #20  
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Wow, sorry rockitman. Teach me to read before I hit Submit Reply. What I was trying to say was "I guess, but please confirm, that even a low rise jack will not fit for this last step withOUT the 4x4s." Is it not possible to lift one side and insert a stand under the front, then lift the other side and insert a stand under the other side of the front and then just lift the rear onto stands? The function of the 4x4s must be to reduce the angle between the front on stands and the rear before lifting, right?

A related question. What are the lift points like on the GT3? Do your stands and jack have rubber pads, and should they be flat?

Thanks.
Old 10-12-2004, 12:09 AM
  #21  
Karl S
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My Griot's low profile jack can get under the engine case with jack stands at their lowest setting under the front lift points. I don't need any wood under the rear wheels to do this. Now if we could just get air jacks like on the Cup car, this would all be much easier - not to mention pad and wheel changes. :-)

Karl
Old 10-12-2004, 12:15 AM
  #22  
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Air jacks would be ideal. Wonder how much they weigh? Not that I would do it, but it sure would be convenient...
Old 10-12-2004, 12:27 AM
  #23  
Larry Herman
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Originally Posted by Phokaioglaukos
Larry, I'm not finding this lift under either name on the web. Can you give me a pointer or suggest a vendor or quote an approximate price? Does it require in-floor installation?
Try this link: http://www.powerrex.net/power-2900f.htm
I bought it from my neighbor who is selling these lifts locally. Call Kevin at 215-768-4136 (Callahan Products). I really like mine and it bolts directly to your floor. Here's what mine looks like:

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Old 10-12-2004, 07:44 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
Thanks. I don't think I have enough width in my garage to accommodate a two post lift. I'll have to measure.
Old 10-12-2004, 04:24 PM
  #25  
Karl S
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Originally Posted by rockitman
Air jacks would be ideal. Wonder how much they weigh? Not that I would do it, but it sure would be convenient...
I don't think the weight would be much of an issue. I've had the air jacks out of my Cup car and they don't weigh that much, maybe 50 lbs for all 3. The bigger problem is cutting holes in your floor pan and welding in the shafts that the jacks retract into. The one in the trunk area wouldn't be bad but the other two would have to go into the rear footwell area. You'd also need to find a way to route the air hoses around the interior of the car. They would be difficult but not impossible to hide.

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Old 10-19-2004, 11:11 PM
  #26  
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Over on pca.org they say: I think you can assume most jacks won't fit under the car. I would start this shopping trip at your lumber vendor of choice, get a length of 2x10" pressure treated board cut down to 1 foot lengths. Ideally do this with a circular saw rotated down to a 30 degree angle. Now you have ramps. Drive the car close to where you want to work on it. Get out and place the ramps, then drive up on them with one quick hop. Better yet make the ramps a little longer, and put a cleat at the end so you don't go over the end. Now any jack will fit, and, you have a 2" head start for room under the car.

Porsche does not make provisions for jackstands for these cars. So you have to take your time, find just the right jackstands, find the right pad for them, and find the right place to locate them under the car. When you find them tell everyone, because this is a very common request. Porsche equips all of the race versions of this car with airjacks, if that tells us anything.

Harbor Freight started the rage in floor jacks in the past year or two by offering the now-familiar lightweight aluminum Nascar-style jack, but at around 1/5th of the price they had been selling for. Now even Sears has something similar. Prices have really come down on stuff like this, made offshore

If you go to place the jack beneath the engine, you are going to have to be really careful of the water cooling line that cuts across the back of the motor at the engine carrier bracket. If you apply the slightest lifting pressure to that water line, or if it lands on the jack on the way down, that line will crush easily.


The part I really focussed on was "find just the right jackstands, find the right pad for them, and find the right place to locate them under the car. When you find them tell everyone, because this is a very common request."

Can you tell everyone the answer to these questions?
Old 10-20-2004, 12:19 AM
  #27  
Karl S
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I think most any jack stand will work. I use a Sears model. The trick is the pad. I use small blocks of wood, cut to fit the jack stand saddle and the jack point on the car. Other people use hockey pucks, which may hold up a little better than wood. Griot's makes a low profile jack that will get under the car without driving it up on wood planks. I also have an aluminum jack I got at Costco that fits under the rear jack, but barely.

Karl
Old 10-20-2004, 08:19 AM
  #28  
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Karl,

I have a Harbor Freight jack with a 3-1/2" saddle. I hope that will fit under the car ok. My jack stands are also Harbor Freight cheapies with metal U-shaped tops. I'm not sure how I'll mate them to the jack points on the car with a hockey puck or piece of wood. Can you describe how you do that, and where the jack points you use with the stands are located?
Old 10-20-2004, 11:46 AM
  #29  
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Chris, use a hack-saw and miter the hockey pucks or pieces of wood so that they mate properly into the U-shaped tops. Use the normal jack points on the car, behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels.
Old 10-20-2004, 11:57 AM
  #30  
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Thanks, Mike. I'll have to actually have my GT3 to see the spots that you're talking about, but now I understand about the hockey pucks.


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