Intro and Dismay...
#31
Update # 2
#6 cylinder scored. Engine is shot.
Dan has been excellent in talking through the options so far, but obviously there are no cheap and easy fixes here. He's a very approachable, down-to-earth guy which is nice when going through something like this.
Options on the table that are being quoted up:
1) Used engine - personally don't like this option even if you can find one
2) Re-manufactured cylinder/block from Porsche - he said it's possible to find these but can be difficult. If found he thinks it's cost effective but I am skeptical re-using Porsche parts again
3) New engine from RND engines (~$20k option )
4) Re-sleeve current motor with Nickies - longest lead time option but personally sounds like the best plan if the cost is right
5) Cut my losses and sell the car as-is... Not even sure what the car is worth as-is. Any ideas?
Just terrible news all around. Didn't even have much time with the car before disaster struck.
Dan has been excellent in talking through the options so far, but obviously there are no cheap and easy fixes here. He's a very approachable, down-to-earth guy which is nice when going through something like this.
Options on the table that are being quoted up:
1) Used engine - personally don't like this option even if you can find one
2) Re-manufactured cylinder/block from Porsche - he said it's possible to find these but can be difficult. If found he thinks it's cost effective but I am skeptical re-using Porsche parts again
3) New engine from RND engines (~$20k option )
4) Re-sleeve current motor with Nickies - longest lead time option but personally sounds like the best plan if the cost is right
5) Cut my losses and sell the car as-is... Not even sure what the car is worth as-is. Any ideas?
Just terrible news all around. Didn't even have much time with the car before disaster struck.
#35
This is what I was leaning towards if the price is right. Would likely do IMS at the same time. Anything else absolutely worth fixing "while he's in there"?
Also, anyone know if the cost for Nickies on LN Engineering website ($4,600) includes the labor of installing, or is that just for the parts?
Also, anyone know if the cost for Nickies on LN Engineering website ($4,600) includes the labor of installing, or is that just for the parts?
#36
Crazy sad that after 1300 miles of ownership a cylinder scores out!
You mentioned the engine sounded fine to your untrained ear but what
about the tech who did the PPI?
Every scoring incident seems detectible by sound first?
Can't we assume metal flakes were being shed before purchase and the PPI?
What did the PO know?
Why didn't the PPI at least drop the oil filter see the tail pipe soot and hear
the ticking?
Other than questions I can't offer advice but I can assure you you're in good hands in this forum for the next steps.
You mentioned the engine sounded fine to your untrained ear but what
about the tech who did the PPI?
Every scoring incident seems detectible by sound first?
Can't we assume metal flakes were being shed before purchase and the PPI?
What did the PO know?
Why didn't the PPI at least drop the oil filter see the tail pipe soot and hear
the ticking?
Other than questions I can't offer advice but I can assure you you're in good hands in this forum for the next steps.
#37
Crazy sad that after 1300 miles of ownership a cylinder scores out on you!
You mentioned the engine sounded fine to your untrained ear but what
about the tech who did the PPI?
Every scoring incident seems detectible by sound first.
Can't we assume metal flakes were being shed before purchase and the PPI?
What did the PO know?
Why didn't the PPI at least drop the oil filter see the tail pipe soot and hear
the ticking?
Other than questions I can't offer advice but I can assure you you're in good hands here for the next steps.
You mentioned the engine sounded fine to your untrained ear but what
about the tech who did the PPI?
Every scoring incident seems detectible by sound first.
Can't we assume metal flakes were being shed before purchase and the PPI?
What did the PO know?
Why didn't the PPI at least drop the oil filter see the tail pipe soot and hear
the ticking?
Other than questions I can't offer advice but I can assure you you're in good hands here for the next steps.
I purchased car from a dealer in NJ. They sell all sorts of cars and have a pretty nice shop. They claim to be a "Porsche specialist shop" as well and set up cars for racing, restoring, etc. Judging from reviews and the customer cars there, I felt pretty good. BUT I will giving them a call soon to go over this as it seems like it could have been present at time of purchase and not disclosed. I have no idea if this failure occurs at a single start-up/drive, or if it develops over time.
I actually contacted the real previous owner because I had his # from the service records. He traded the car into Porsche last summer and bought a Cayenne for his growing family - and then a Cayman for himself. He said that he had higher-than-expected oil consumption and had it checked out but local shops said it was "in spec". Without any other symptoms he had nothing to go on. But when I got the car things deteriorated pretty quickly from there. Doesn't sound to me like he dumped the car at fist sign of trouble, he's been inquisitive about his old beloved car. He lives in CT as well so maybe he'll get to see it again if all goes well..
I changed oil soon after purchase and cut open the existing oil filter and did not see any examples of metal particulate at that time.
#38
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2016
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That really sucks. Given you bought it for 24k, I would definitely go back to the dealer you purchased the car from. You had high oil consumption from the start so definitely not something you caused.
Volkert
Volkert
#39
Out of all the options 2 & 4 are the only ones I'd look at.
I am going to say that re-sleeving your current engine will be more money than gettign the RND engine though.
I re sleeved me engine with LNE nickies and pistons, and replaced everything inside the engine with new parts. Last time I looked, I was at $18k CDN and that was with me & friends doing 100% of the labor.
I am going to say that re-sleeving your current engine will be more money than gettign the RND engine though.
I re sleeved me engine with LNE nickies and pistons, and replaced everything inside the engine with new parts. Last time I looked, I was at $18k CDN and that was with me & friends doing 100% of the labor.
#40
Out of all the options 2 & 4 are the only ones I'd look at.
I am going to say that re-sleeving your current engine will be more money than gettign the RND engine though.
I re sleeved me engine with LNE nickies and pistons, and replaced everything inside the engine with new parts. Last time I looked, I was at $18k CDN and that was with me & friends doing 100% of the labor.
I am going to say that re-sleeving your current engine will be more money than gettign the RND engine though.
I re sleeved me engine with LNE nickies and pistons, and replaced everything inside the engine with new parts. Last time I looked, I was at $18k CDN and that was with me & friends doing 100% of the labor.
Just curious why didn't you go with RND engine if it was more cost effective in your situation?
#42
What did just the re-sleeve cost? If something else in the engine is badly worn/broken/damaged then I will have it fixed while I'm in there, but I'm hoping I don't need to replace "everything" in there. Maybe wishful thinking.
Just curious why didn't you go with RND engine if it was more cost effective in your situation?
Just curious why didn't you go with RND engine if it was more cost effective in your situation?
Unfortunately, you cannot re-use most parts. You must buy new carrier bolts, rod bolts, rod and crankshatft bearings, new timing chains, tensioners, paddles, etc, etc, etc. It all adds up quick.
crankshaft bearings are $32 each, you need 14 of them.
Head bolts are $11 each, you need 24 of those.
Crankcase bolts are $6 each, you need 14 of them.
rod bearings are $8 each, you need 12 of them.
The nickies from LNE is half the cost.
The LNE work is $4600 - that is if you do disassemble the engine yourself. If not, then add your garages labor to all of this...
http://lnengineering.com/products/wa...ins-clips.html
#43
Sorry to hear man. No offense, but I think $24 is steep for the mileage and options on your car. If the car was healthy I think you'd take a loss and then you'd probably take another cut for the condition of the engine. Get a quote on the repair and try to compare it to the hit you'd take selling as is. Here's some reference points.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ng-2017-a.html
It sounds like you have another car, but if not, you need to think about the cost of a replacement ride. Good luck.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ng-2017-a.html
It sounds like you have another car, but if not, you need to think about the cost of a replacement ride. Good luck.
#44
Prices are generally much higher here in the Northeast compared to Cali....least that was my experience when shopping.
#45
This is true - the area is not cheap for these cars unfortunately. I was pushing for about $1-2k lower, but it was from a dealer who has less flexibility to budge on price understandably. Hopefully they are able to work with me on some level to justify the higher costs. We shall see.