Need some help/advice about replacing brakes/rotors
#1
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Hey guys, so my brake warning light just came on a week or so ago. To prevent any further wear before I was able to evaluate it, I've kept it in the garage. So I called up the stealer to inquire about service and they quoted me numbers into the thousands depending on whether the rotors needed to be replaced or not.
Hell nah. So I've never worked on brakes before but I'm decently mechanically inclined. I looked into how to change the pads and it appears to be quite simple.
1st question:
So far, I've only had a chance to take the rear wheels off. The rotors have zero cracks and turn freely without any notchy sections. They both measured around 23.94 to 24mm in thickness. Is it safe to assume the rear rotors are probably fine?
2nd question:
Since I've never replaced brake pads, I'm not all that familiar with what is worn and what is not worn. Is this worn and would this have triggered the sensor? Is it concerning that one side appears to be quite a bit thicker?
![Name: DCkyYEU.jpg
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3rd question:
I originally started to check the fronts first but after removing the lug bolts the wheel literally stuck to the axle. I even took out the freakin guide bolt and it just hung there in mid air. What the heck? One of the rear wheels started to act like it was going to do the same thing but I gave it a good kick and it came loose. Should I just give it a good pounding (while the guide bolt is in) and see if that loosens it? I've never heard of this happening. lol
4th question:
Is there a particular brand I should look for/look out for? Theres a ton of kits on eBay. Any recommendations?
Thanks everybody. You guys know I've spent way too much money on the tranny fiasco so I'm hoping to God I can't just do the pads myself and move on. haha
Hell nah. So I've never worked on brakes before but I'm decently mechanically inclined. I looked into how to change the pads and it appears to be quite simple.
1st question:
So far, I've only had a chance to take the rear wheels off. The rotors have zero cracks and turn freely without any notchy sections. They both measured around 23.94 to 24mm in thickness. Is it safe to assume the rear rotors are probably fine?
2nd question:
Since I've never replaced brake pads, I'm not all that familiar with what is worn and what is not worn. Is this worn and would this have triggered the sensor? Is it concerning that one side appears to be quite a bit thicker?
![Name: DCkyYEU.jpg
Views: 11
Size: 765.8 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/996-forum/1355139d1683260954-need-some-help-advice-about-replacing-brakes-rotors-dckyyeu.jpg)
3rd question:
I originally started to check the fronts first but after removing the lug bolts the wheel literally stuck to the axle. I even took out the freakin guide bolt and it just hung there in mid air. What the heck? One of the rear wheels started to act like it was going to do the same thing but I gave it a good kick and it came loose. Should I just give it a good pounding (while the guide bolt is in) and see if that loosens it? I've never heard of this happening. lol
4th question:
Is there a particular brand I should look for/look out for? Theres a ton of kits on eBay. Any recommendations?
Thanks everybody. You guys know I've spent way too much money on the tranny fiasco so I'm hoping to God I can't just do the pads myself and move on. haha
#2
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I'm planning to do pads & rotors on the rear this winter with the help of this:
https://www.amazon.com/Projects-Pors.../dp/0760344035
gl, let us know how it goes.
https://www.amazon.com/Projects-Pors.../dp/0760344035
gl, let us know how it goes.
#3
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Those pads look fine. Plenty of wear left in them. When the actual pad gets about 1mm is when I swap them.
There are lots of really good pads out there. I use EBC Red Stuff for my daily driver and it's a good low dust pad.
Are you wheels powder coated? This can cause them to stick. But yes, just get aggressive with it to get it off.
There are lots of really good pads out there. I use EBC Red Stuff for my daily driver and it's a good low dust pad.
Are you wheels powder coated? This can cause them to stick. But yes, just get aggressive with it to get it off.
#5
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Lots of choices available in pads and you should definitely be able to change them yourself and save some $
http://www.paragon-products.com/Pors...akes-s/264.htm
http://www.paragon-products.com/Pors...akes-s/264.htm
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#6
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Thanks for the replies. It must be the fronts that set off the sensor. I'll pull off the wheels when I get home today. It was getting late last night while working on them and I didn't wanna **** off the neighbors hammering out retainer pins haha
#7
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Its a pretty easy DIY.
These videos show you most of what you need to know. Some debate on whether or not to replace the bolts at time of fitting, I did not, just applied threadlocker.
Check to see if there is a noticeable lip on the discs (rotors) mine failed safety so I had to replace fronts, pads were still good.
I personally used Textar OEM pads, ATE Coated rotors with replacement sensors and hardware package from Jason at Warehouse 33 he gives you a renlist discount.
But as others will mention there are lots of choices. Final note is front rotors are directional rears are not.
These videos show you most of what you need to know. Some debate on whether or not to replace the bolts at time of fitting, I did not, just applied threadlocker.
Check to see if there is a noticeable lip on the discs (rotors) mine failed safety so I had to replace fronts, pads were still good.
I personally used Textar OEM pads, ATE Coated rotors with replacement sensors and hardware package from Jason at Warehouse 33 he gives you a renlist discount.
But as others will mention there are lots of choices. Final note is front rotors are directional rears are not.
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#8
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3rd question:
I originally started to check the fronts first but after removing the lug bolts the wheel literally stuck to the axle. I even took out the freakin guide bolt and it just hung there in mid air. What the heck? One of the rear wheels started to act like it was going to do the same thing but I gave it a good kick and it came loose. Should I just give it a good pounding (while the guide bolt is in) and see if that loosens it? I've never heard of this happening. lol
I originally started to check the fronts first but after removing the lug bolts the wheel literally stuck to the axle. I even took out the freakin guide bolt and it just hung there in mid air. What the heck? One of the rear wheels started to act like it was going to do the same thing but I gave it a good kick and it came loose. Should I just give it a good pounding (while the guide bolt is in) and see if that loosens it? I've never heard of this happening. lol
Decent set of Textar pads:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...lVajUu&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-Brak...tXxvvj&vxp=mtr
Here's a inexpensive complete kit which includes Meyle rotors for under $300:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...hWVGx0&vxp=mtr
Here's a decent Brembo kit for around $500.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quality-BRAK...JX9KKP&vxp=mtr
Of course, many will swear by high-end pads, but unless you're tracking the car, I don't think you need them.
Don't forget the brake pad's vibration dampers:
(you might be able to reuse your olds ones, but they're glued to the pads.)
*FRONT*
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-99-1...JWDjcn&vxp=mtr
*REAR*
(You should be able to reuse your old ones!)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-...VWxSWD&vxp=mtr
Whatever happened with Dennis and the old transmission? Did he pay up since he didn't know what he was doing???
Last edited by ZuffenZeus; 11-07-2016 at 10:04 AM.
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Also someone said to change out the caliper bolts....only do this if you are removing the calipers. Doing brake pads do not require caliper removal. Changing pads is one of the easiest DIY's that come to mind on the pcar. Good luck.
#14
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Take a 2 lb beater and a 2x4 and whack the wheel from the inside. Hit it in a couple different spots around the wheel. If the wheels haven't been off in a while that is reason it is sticking. Been there done that.
Also someone said to change out the caliper bolts....only do this if you are removing the calipers. Doing brake pads do not require caliper removal. Changing pads is one of the easiest DIY's that come to mind on the pcar. Good luck.
Also someone said to change out the caliper bolts....only do this if you are removing the calipers. Doing brake pads do not require caliper removal. Changing pads is one of the easiest DIY's that come to mind on the pcar. Good luck.
#15
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