krazyk86cu

Hey guys, so my brake warning light just came on a week or so ago. To prevent any further wear before I was able to evaluate it, I've kept it in the garage. So I called up the stealer to inquire about service and they quoted me numbers into the thousands depending on whether the rotors needed to be replaced or not.

Hell nah. So I've never worked on brakes before but I'm decently mechanically inclined. I looked into how to change the pads and it appears to be quite simple.


1st question:
So far, I've only had a chance to take the rear wheels off. The rotors have zero cracks and turn freely without any notchy sections. They both measured around 23.94 to 24mm in thickness. Is it safe to assume the rear rotors are probably fine?

2nd question:
Since I've never replaced brake pads, I'm not all that familiar with what is worn and what is not worn. Is this worn and would this have triggered the sensor? Is it concerning that one side appears to be quite a bit thicker?



3rd question:
I originally started to check the fronts first but after removing the lug bolts the wheel literally stuck to the axle. I even took out the freakin guide bolt and it just hung there in mid air. What the heck? One of the rear wheels started to act like it was going to do the same thing but I gave it a good kick and it came loose. Should I just give it a good pounding (while the guide bolt is in) and see if that loosens it? I've never heard of this happening. lol

4th question:
Is there a particular brand I should look for/look out for? Theres a ton of kits on eBay. Any recommendations?


Thanks everybody. You guys know I've spent way too much money on the tranny fiasco so I'm hoping to God I can't just do the pads myself and move on. haha

TonyTwoBags

I'm planning to do pads & rotors on the rear this winter with the help of this:

https://www.amazon.com/Projects-Pors.../dp/0760344035

gl, let us know how it goes.

TonyTwoBags

also this, for free.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...rake_Discs.htm

Slakker

Those pads look fine. Plenty of wear left in them. When the actual pad gets about 1mm is when I swap them.

There are lots of really good pads out there. I use EBC Red Stuff for my daily driver and it's a good low dust pad.

Are you wheels powder coated? This can cause them to stick. But yes, just get aggressive with it to get it off.

Jason @ Paragon Products

Lots of choices available in pads and you should definitely be able to change them yourself and save some $

http://www.paragon-products.com/Pors...akes-s/264.htm

krazyk86cu

Thanks for the replies. It must be the fronts that set off the sensor. I'll pull off the wheels when I get home today. It was getting late last night while working on them and I didn't wanna **** off the neighbors hammering out retainer pins haha

Montychristo128

Its a pretty easy DIY.

These videos show you most of what you need to know. Some debate on whether or not to replace the bolts at time of fitting, I did not, just applied threadlocker.

Check to see if there is a noticeable lip on the discs (rotors) mine failed safety so I had to replace fronts, pads were still good.

I personally used Textar OEM pads, ATE Coated rotors with replacement sensors and hardware package from Jason at Warehouse 33 he gives you a renlist discount.

But as others will mention there are lots of choices. Final note is front rotors are directional rears are not.

ZuffenZeus

Standard thickness for OEM rotors for your Carrera are 28mm (front) and 24 mm (rear)

When brake pad thickness reaches about 2 mm, the sensor creates a short which in turn illuminates a "Brake" MIL. Therefore, if you're getting Brake warning lights, then it's time to at least replace your pads with new sensors and vibration dampers.


There's an extreme amount of hydraulic pressure and it's not uncommon for the pads to be gripping the rotor which wouldn't allow you to rotate it. You should follow Van Sveson's guide to replace Porsche 996 brakes and rotors. In the video, he shows how to remove each peace and release hydraulic pressure in order to remove the pads.



I personally went with Meyle. IMHO, they're perfectly fine for normal driving and they grip a lot better than what I was experiencing with the OEM setup. I was able to replace the pads and rotors for front and rear for well under $500.00.

Decent set of Textar pads:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...lVajUu&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-Brak...tXxvvj&vxp=mtr
Here's a inexpensive complete kit which includes Meyle rotors for under $300:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...hWVGx0&vxp=mtr

Here's a decent Brembo kit for around $500.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quality-BRAK...JX9KKP&vxp=mtr

Of course, many will swear by high-end pads, but unless you're tracking the car, I don't think you need them.


Don't forget the brake pad's vibration dampers:

(you might be able to reuse your olds ones, but they're glued to the pads.)

*FRONT*

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-99-1...JWDjcn&vxp=mtr

*REAR*
(You should be able to reuse your old ones!)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-...VWxSWD&vxp=mtr




Whatever happened with Dennis and the old transmission? Did he pay up since he didn't know what he was doing???

ZuffenZeus

What was the exact figure for a Porsche service center to replace the front and rear rotors?

ditto

Per Porsche, the bolts that hold the calipers in place are one use only so you probably want to add them to the parts list.

krazyk86cu

Let me clarify, the entire wheel is stuck to the car. Not the rotor. The freaking wheel lol

ZuffenZeus

You did take the bolts off first didn't you KK? bwahahahahahaa

Sneaky Pete

Take a 2 lb beater and a 2x4 and whack the wheel from the inside. Hit it in a couple different spots around the wheel. If the wheels haven't been off in a while that is reason it is sticking. Been there done that.

Also someone said to change out the caliper bolts....only do this if you are removing the calipers. Doing brake pads do not require caliper removal. Changing pads is one of the easiest DIY's that come to mind on the pcar. Good luck.

krazyk86cu

Yeah, I'm hoping I don't have to do the rotors. Pads definitely look super easy. Though, how do I go about compressing the pistons without removing the calipers? Will a C-clamp reach in there?

krazyk86cu

haha yeah, I literally removed the lug bolts AND the guide bolt and it just hung there. Hahaha