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Heres a pic of the car... Don't even mention the drag from the intercooler inlets that go to, well, the inside of the fenders. =)
Sharp machine you got there buddy! Let me know how my suggestion with the air duct works out. I'm willing to bet you it will make huge difference. Rerouting the air on the back side of the side rads should help too. That was good advice. Porsche design to funnel the air downward on the side rad doesn't make much sense for track use.
Years ago in my Lotus Elise we had overheating problems similar to what you're describing here. We sourced an electric water pump system that was just amazing. http://daviescraig.com.au/electric-water-pumps
With two electric fans and a variable water flow regardless of engine speed we could almost dial in the temp desired and the auto thermostat would keep it there regardless of how hard the car was being driven - and it was driven hard, very hard.
Plus after a hard run with the engine off, the water pump keeps operating to cool the system down quickly and this also avoids "heat soak" I'm told...
An additional bonus is the slight increase in power as the parasitic drain is removed...
My Boxste' was cooking at the track this weekend. Outside air temps were in the upper 90s. By the end of the 4th session, coolant was bumping 250 degrees. Melted the rear bumper cover. Going to install 3rd rad, low temp therm., new water pump, and manual fan switch.
The oil is running too hot, the coolant soaks up *some* of this heat via the heat exchanger... Install a stand alone oil temperature gauge with the sender in the sump.
Also, the earlier poster is correct- DT40 was never developed for a track oil, it is not designed with a high viscosity index for operation with exceptionally high oil temperatures.
A huge issue is the bumper. I see high coolant temps all the time from aftermarket, and OEM bumper covers that have the wrong angle of attack for the air to enter into the radiators. All the air stacks into the outboard corners of the radiators, and often it stagnates there. I have seen many cars with these bum,per come in with cracked heads, and upon repair we have to add a CSF 3rd radiator just to get the coolant temps back down to where they are supposed to be stock (on the street).
Unless they custom mounted the center radiator the GT2 ducts won't affect it. Your car shouldn't be running that hot even without a center rad. Especially if you are running Water Wetter.
As stated water pump and t-stat seems like the biggest culprits. I would also have them clean the radiators and condensers and ensure you have a good air path all the way through.
DT40 will ruin these engines with heavy track use. XP9 seem to work really well on the track but like all race oils, won't last as many miles.
Unless they custom mounted the center radiator the GT2 ducts won't affect it. Your car shouldn't be running that hot even without a center rad.
Slakker, I agree that there are other contributors to the overheating problem, but are you really sure the OEM upward air duct won't have any affect on cooling the car??? Please explain.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but if air is push straight through the center radiator and not vacated properly, then air will get trapped and actually cause un wanted resistance on the car. Doesn't the upward flow of air also contribute to improved down force on the car too?
Did you reused the existed side air ducts that were designed for the OEM base bumper on your car when you installed the GT2 style bumper cover?
If so, this may also be another problem especially when tracking the car. You need the GT2 side air ducts which match the bumper's side inlets. They are larger and funnel *all* of the air properly across the rads. If you reuse the base bumpers air ducts (which are smaller and designed for the Carrera lower inlets), air will actually flow above the base air ducts which will cause the air to get trapped in the corners and cause your rads to not be as efficient.
I personally learned this the hard way when I upgrade my base bumper to the TT style bumper.
XP9 seem to work really well on the track but like all race oils, won't last as many miles.
I saw a thread somewhere a few years ago (not on here, maybe on Pelican or Planet-9) where Jake was talking about a possible XP9 that could last 2500 miles for folks that drove their cars to and from the track, but I guess it never made it into production, as last time I talked with Lake Speed Jr he said the interval was still around 750 miles. I wish it would bump up to 2500, that would be perfect for me
Slakker, I agree that there are other contributors to the overheating problem, but are you really sure the OEM upward air duct won't have any affect on cooling the car??? Please explain.
If they didn't dam up the bottom then all they did was create two exit paths. If they left the radiator tilting up then the vents shouldn't have any affect. If they reversed and tilted the radiator down, which requires some customization, then as long as they matched the intake flow from the bumper to the radiator, it still should provide good additive cooling.
As for creating downforce, yes this would benefit aero but not cooling. That's where adding the GT2 exhaust duct and damming up the bottom becomes advantageous. I looked at doing this yesterday but bumped it to my winter list due to the amount of time it will take. I'm already pushing it to have my current list done for next weekends race.
Originally Posted by steved0x
I wish it would bump up to 2500, that would be perfect for me
Low speed definitely works and deck lid fan does as well. High speed not sure... Can I test those with the Durametric software?
The water pump def looks "original". I am very certain it was run with the pressure release on to bleed it, they know I like my track days.
I appreciate the fast feedback! Doesn't seem right to me either!
Are your fans properly connected or have the wires been misconnected so that the fans are turning in reverse direction and inhibiting air flow rather than helping it. I had this happen with a 308 I owned. The PO had removed the radiator fans and when reconnecting them, reversed the wires on one of them.
The oil is running too hot, the coolant soaks up *some* of this heat via the heat exchanger...
A huge issue is the bumper. I see high coolant temps all the time from aftermarket, and OEM bumper covers that have the wrong angle of attack for the air to enter into the radiators....
Looks kills. Keep that front bumper stock.
Thanks Jake!
I'll need to find a stock bumper and test it, car came WYSYG. I'll pull the part numbers off of the ducts that are on there. The center is GT3 OEM (I ordered all of the parts from the Fiche and then subbed the factory radiator for a CSF). There is no ducting behind the radiator...
Is there an external oil cooler that is preferred? I have the LN Spin-on adaptor and I know a sandwich adaptor plate can be installed.
10-20-2016, 09:01 PM
