996 Heat Management on Track - Looking for Advice
#31
Nordschleife Master
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Let us know! Cheers!
#32
Advanced
Electric water pump
Hi
Years ago in my Lotus Elise we had overheating problems similar to what you're describing here. We sourced an electric water pump system that was just amazing. http://daviescraig.com.au/electric-water-pumps
With two electric fans and a variable water flow regardless of engine speed we could almost dial in the temp desired and the auto thermostat would keep it there regardless of how hard the car was being driven - and it was driven hard, very hard.
Plus after a hard run with the engine off, the water pump keeps operating to cool the system down quickly and this also avoids "heat soak" I'm told...
An additional bonus is the slight increase in power as the parasitic drain is removed...
May be worth a look at...?
Good luck!
Rgd's
AT
Years ago in my Lotus Elise we had overheating problems similar to what you're describing here. We sourced an electric water pump system that was just amazing. http://daviescraig.com.au/electric-water-pumps
With two electric fans and a variable water flow regardless of engine speed we could almost dial in the temp desired and the auto thermostat would keep it there regardless of how hard the car was being driven - and it was driven hard, very hard.
Plus after a hard run with the engine off, the water pump keeps operating to cool the system down quickly and this also avoids "heat soak" I'm told...
An additional bonus is the slight increase in power as the parasitic drain is removed...
May be worth a look at...?
Good luck!
Rgd's
AT
#33
Race Director
My Boxste' was cooking at the track this weekend. Outside air temps were in the upper 90s. By the end of the 4th session, coolant was bumping 250 degrees. Melted the rear bumper cover. Going to install 3rd rad, low temp therm., new water pump, and manual fan switch.
Last edited by Cuda911; 10-21-2016 at 11:44 AM.
#34
Former Vendor
The oil is running too hot, the coolant soaks up *some* of this heat via the heat exchanger... Install a stand alone oil temperature gauge with the sender in the sump.
Also, the earlier poster is correct- DT40 was never developed for a track oil, it is not designed with a high viscosity index for operation with exceptionally high oil temperatures.
A huge issue is the bumper. I see high coolant temps all the time from aftermarket, and OEM bumper covers that have the wrong angle of attack for the air to enter into the radiators. All the air stacks into the outboard corners of the radiators, and often it stagnates there. I have seen many cars with these bum,per come in with cracked heads, and upon repair we have to add a CSF 3rd radiator just to get the coolant temps back down to where they are supposed to be stock (on the street).
Looks kills. Keep that front bumper stock.
Also, the earlier poster is correct- DT40 was never developed for a track oil, it is not designed with a high viscosity index for operation with exceptionally high oil temperatures.
A huge issue is the bumper. I see high coolant temps all the time from aftermarket, and OEM bumper covers that have the wrong angle of attack for the air to enter into the radiators. All the air stacks into the outboard corners of the radiators, and often it stagnates there. I have seen many cars with these bum,per come in with cracked heads, and upon repair we have to add a CSF 3rd radiator just to get the coolant temps back down to where they are supposed to be stock (on the street).
Looks kills. Keep that front bumper stock.
#35
Race Car
Unless they custom mounted the center radiator the GT2 ducts won't affect it. Your car shouldn't be running that hot even without a center rad. Especially if you are running Water Wetter.
As stated water pump and t-stat seems like the biggest culprits. I would also have them clean the radiators and condensers and ensure you have a good air path all the way through.
DT40 will ruin these engines with heavy track use. XP9 seem to work really well on the track but like all race oils, won't last as many miles.
As stated water pump and t-stat seems like the biggest culprits. I would also have them clean the radiators and condensers and ensure you have a good air path all the way through.
DT40 will ruin these engines with heavy track use. XP9 seem to work really well on the track but like all race oils, won't last as many miles.
#36
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Please correct me if I'm wrong, but if air is push straight through the center radiator and not vacated properly, then air will get trapped and actually cause un wanted resistance on the car. Doesn't the upward flow of air also contribute to improved down force on the car too?
#37
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Relegate,
Did you reused the existed side air ducts that were designed for the OEM base bumper on your car when you installed the GT2 style bumper cover?
If so, this may also be another problem especially when tracking the car. You need the GT2 side air ducts which match the bumper's side inlets. They are larger and funnel *all* of the air properly across the rads. If you reuse the base bumpers air ducts (which are smaller and designed for the Carrera lower inlets), air will actually flow above the base air ducts which will cause the air to get trapped in the corners and cause your rads to not be as efficient.
I personally learned this the hard way when I upgrade my base bumper to the TT style bumper.
Did you reused the existed side air ducts that were designed for the OEM base bumper on your car when you installed the GT2 style bumper cover?
If so, this may also be another problem especially when tracking the car. You need the GT2 side air ducts which match the bumper's side inlets. They are larger and funnel *all* of the air properly across the rads. If you reuse the base bumpers air ducts (which are smaller and designed for the Carrera lower inlets), air will actually flow above the base air ducts which will cause the air to get trapped in the corners and cause your rads to not be as efficient.
I personally learned this the hard way when I upgrade my base bumper to the TT style bumper.
#38
I saw a thread somewhere a few years ago (not on here, maybe on Pelican or Planet-9) where Jake was talking about a possible XP9 that could last 2500 miles for folks that drove their cars to and from the track, but I guess it never made it into production, as last time I talked with Lake Speed Jr he said the interval was still around 750 miles. I wish it would bump up to 2500, that would be perfect for me
#39
Race Car
Originally Posted by b3freak
Slakker, I agree that there are other contributors to the overheating problem, but are you really sure the OEM upward air duct won't have any affect on cooling the car??? Please explain.
As for creating downforce, yes this would benefit aero but not cooling. That's where adding the GT2 exhaust duct and damming up the bottom becomes advantageous. I looked at doing this yesterday but bumped it to my winter list due to the amount of time it will take. I'm already pushing it to have my current list done for next weekends race.
Originally Posted by steved0x
I wish it would bump up to 2500, that would be perfect for me
#40
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Is this what the OP should be aiming for regarding air ducts?
#41
Rennlist Member
Low speed definitely works and deck lid fan does as well. High speed not sure... Can I test those with the Durametric software?
The water pump def looks "original". I am very certain it was run with the pressure release on to bleed it, they know I like my track days.
I appreciate the fast feedback! Doesn't seem right to me either!
The water pump def looks "original". I am very certain it was run with the pressure release on to bleed it, they know I like my track days.
I appreciate the fast feedback! Doesn't seem right to me either!
#42
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We are doing something about those inside fenders before our next track day together. I will cut them out while you sleep if I have to lol.
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#43
Race Car
Originally Posted by b3freak
Is this what the OP should be aiming for regarding air ducts?
FYI, fans are irrelevant on the track unless you are sitting for a period of time.
#44
The oil is running too hot, the coolant soaks up *some* of this heat via the heat exchanger...
A huge issue is the bumper. I see high coolant temps all the time from aftermarket, and OEM bumper covers that have the wrong angle of attack for the air to enter into the radiators....
Looks kills. Keep that front bumper stock.
A huge issue is the bumper. I see high coolant temps all the time from aftermarket, and OEM bumper covers that have the wrong angle of attack for the air to enter into the radiators....
Looks kills. Keep that front bumper stock.
I'll need to find a stock bumper and test it, car came WYSYG. I'll pull the part numbers off of the ducts that are on there. The center is GT3 OEM (I ordered all of the parts from the Fiche and then subbed the factory radiator for a CSF). There is no ducting behind the radiator...
Is there an external oil cooler that is preferred? I have the LN Spin-on adaptor and I know a sandwich adaptor plate can be installed.
#45
Race Director