Newbie Key question
#1
Newbie Key question
Just picked up a 99 in Ocean Blue. Love it so far. Put a new ignition switch in it last night, which solved a few problems. I having an issue though with one of the keys. One key works fine. The key fob works and the key works. The other, the key fob will not work and they key itself will not start the car. It will open the door manually and unlock both doors. It fits in the ignition fine and can turn it and all the lights and radio come one, but the car itself will not start. Nothing happens at all when I turn it all the way to right.
I have looked through the various threads, but most seem to discuss a faulty key fob, but the key itself still works. Anyone have any ideas?
I have looked through the various threads, but most seem to discuss a faulty key fob, but the key itself still works. Anyone have any ideas?
#4
Try this: put your non working key in the ignition and then hold your working key right next to it and then try starting it. Does it start?
#7
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 5,811
Likes: 0
Received 1,091 Likes
on
701 Posts
Did you open up the non-functioning key fob to see if the RFID pill is in there? Could be missing, or it got zapped somehow. That's a trip to the dealer. Otherwise, since it works to unlock the car, maybe just a spare.
Four parts to the key:
1) Key blade - laser cut key that works the locks and ignition
2) RFID pill - that communicates with the immobilizer. Car will not start if the pill is missing, or not programmed. The RFID pill does not need a functioning key fob battery to work. Mine has been dead for years. The car is programmed to the RFID pill. Requires dealer to match the key RFID pill with the immobilizer. There is a "ring" around the ignition switch that reads the RFID pill, matching the key to the immobilizer and allowing for start.
3) Circuit board - communicates with the car to lock/unlock. This depends on the key fob battery to function, but has nothing to do with the RFID pill. Most of the time the circuit board cracks and no longer functions to communicate with the car. No big deal, use the key to lock/unlock and start. Again, a dealer visit to get the circuit board and car to communicate with each other.
4) Key fob housing - holds everything.
One caveat: I have a "valet key" that works the locks and ignition. It even starts up the car. However, it is very small and does not seem to contain an RFID pill like the bigger key fob. I have no explanation why it works, but it does. And everything works just fine with it. 99 C2
Four parts to the key:
1) Key blade - laser cut key that works the locks and ignition
2) RFID pill - that communicates with the immobilizer. Car will not start if the pill is missing, or not programmed. The RFID pill does not need a functioning key fob battery to work. Mine has been dead for years. The car is programmed to the RFID pill. Requires dealer to match the key RFID pill with the immobilizer. There is a "ring" around the ignition switch that reads the RFID pill, matching the key to the immobilizer and allowing for start.
3) Circuit board - communicates with the car to lock/unlock. This depends on the key fob battery to function, but has nothing to do with the RFID pill. Most of the time the circuit board cracks and no longer functions to communicate with the car. No big deal, use the key to lock/unlock and start. Again, a dealer visit to get the circuit board and car to communicate with each other.
4) Key fob housing - holds everything.
One caveat: I have a "valet key" that works the locks and ignition. It even starts up the car. However, it is very small and does not seem to contain an RFID pill like the bigger key fob. I have no explanation why it works, but it does. And everything works just fine with it. 99 C2
Last edited by DBJoe996; 09-16-2016 at 04:34 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
Rennlist Member
Did you open up the non-functioning key fob to see if the RFID pill is in there? Could be missing, or it got zapped somehow. That's a trip to the dealer. Otherwise, since it works to unlock the car, maybe just a spare.
Four parts to the key:
1) Key blade - laser cut key that works the locks and ignition
2) RFID pill - that communicates with the immobilizer. Car will not start if the pill is missing, or not programmed. The RFID pill does not need a functioning key fob battery to work. Mine has been dead for years. The car is programmed to the RFID pill. Requires dealer to match the key RFID pill with the immobilizer. There is a "ring" around the ignition switch that reads the RFID pill, matching the key to the immobilizer and allowing for start.
3) Circuit board - communicates with the car to lock/unlock. This depends on the key fob battery to function, but has nothing to do with the RFID pill. Most of the time the circuit board cracks and no longer functions to communicate with the car. No big deal, use the key to lock/unlock and start. Again, a dealer visit to get the circuit board and car to communicate with each other.
4) Key fob housing - holds everything.
One caveat: I have a "valet key" that works the locks and ignition. It even starts up the car. However, it is very small and does not seem to contain an RFID pill like the bigger key fob. I have no explanation why it works, but it does. And everything works just fine with it. 99 C2
Four parts to the key:
1) Key blade - laser cut key that works the locks and ignition
2) RFID pill - that communicates with the immobilizer. Car will not start if the pill is missing, or not programmed. The RFID pill does not need a functioning key fob battery to work. Mine has been dead for years. The car is programmed to the RFID pill. Requires dealer to match the key RFID pill with the immobilizer. There is a "ring" around the ignition switch that reads the RFID pill, matching the key to the immobilizer and allowing for start.
3) Circuit board - communicates with the car to lock/unlock. This depends on the key fob battery to function, but has nothing to do with the RFID pill. Most of the time the circuit board cracks and no longer functions to communicate with the car. No big deal, use the key to lock/unlock and start. Again, a dealer visit to get the circuit board and car to communicate with each other.
4) Key fob housing - holds everything.
One caveat: I have a "valet key" that works the locks and ignition. It even starts up the car. However, it is very small and does not seem to contain an RFID pill like the bigger key fob. I have no explanation why it works, but it does. And everything works just fine with it. 99 C2
#10
Rennlist Member
Just noticed that Mr. Fracture already posted the solution for re-initializing - see link in post #3 above and then go to post #15 in that link.
#12
#13
Race Director
The optimal position of the RFID pill is very critical and there is not much room for positional error. The RFID pill wants to be very close to where it is in the key head. There is an antenna behind the ring around where the key is inserted. When the key is turned an RF signal is broadcast from this antenna and this energizes the RFID pill and its electronic circuitry and it in turn broadcast's its ID which is received by this antenna.
That you were unsuccessful attempting to use the RFID pill on the known key to provide the signal to allow the engine to start using another key is therefore expected.
If you can insert a key and turn it all the way to right as far as you can turn any other key that fits and can start the engine the key is ok. What is lacking is a working RFID pill or one that is known the security system.
#14
Rennlist Member
Getting a replacement "eventually" is a very dangerous game. Search around here and find the thread about a guy who did just that. And then he lost his only working key and his car became stuck in the bowels of a garage, with not enough room to get a tow truck in to pull him out and get him to a dealer. Or go see the movie Grand Canyon, about a guy who breaks down at the worst time and in the worst place. Not having a fully functional second key is being very lazy...or stupid. Get that second key now.
#15
Pro