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Why would the end links pre load the suspension? Slakker the end links are adjustable to take any pre load out during corner balancing. If you made each one equal length longer nothing really changes. Provided there is clearance the entire sway bar rotates, shouldn't flex. If you change the length on only one than there will be some load on one side and slack on the other. I could see how a major change (like doubling the length by moving the mounting point) effects wheel rate but I'd try it just like it is. Probably paid for alignment and corner balance already when the PO installed it. If there's a problem than address it after driving it. My .02
It came with the alignment and corner balance readings. Didn't think about messing that up. Coilover looks installed properly, going to rock what I got.
Challenging first day at AutoX today. Ours is at a sheriff training course so it's more like a mini track than a parking lot cone course.
Since I couldn't get the NT01s to work I had to use the Hankooc z214s. They did better than expected but on a 2 min course with 20 mins between laps they always felt better at the end of the run than the beginning. I definitely prefer the Nt01 for that setup.
Struggled with the B&M SSK today and missed getting it into gear several times. The numeric is so precise it has spoiled me and will need to get swapped over to this car. That or I just need to slow down and learn this one better.
Throttle pedal came loose on the one timed run we were doing and only partially worked so that was annoying. With missed gears I and pedal issues I was about 12 secs off the leader (modded 991 TTS)
All that being said, the car was awesome. The extra ~25 rwhp and LSD was really noticeable accelerating out of turns. The stiffness of the suspension and chassis made it feel rock solid and super responsive. Braking was good and without issue. If the tires would have been just a little more predictable I could have pushed it a bit harder. But all in all, it was a great start to learning the car.
Next up is Hallet on Friday. It should be a much better gauge for how we are going to get along.
It was a good night. Got a new AOS installed, IPD Plenum, and the coolant drained. First time I did the AOS on the silver car it took about 20 hours including the water pump and motor mounts. This time it took 6. It would've taken less but the back manifold bolt got me this time trying to get it back in.
Next up, front rotors, adjustable thrust arm bushings, break fluid flush, and an alignment.
The DME. This was the one negative this car had. But it was a dedicated track car so not unexpected. I know you hear of GT3s with 0 range 1s but those are the guys more concerned with protecting their investment than lap times. I'm assuming that the tune upped the rev limiter and that's the root of the mechanicals. If they were "money shifts" I don't think it would still be running.
A little bit of trivia for you that I spotted on the DME readout. See that 65535 Range1's?...65535 happens to be (2^16)-1...what that means is that Bosch uses a 16bit binary counter to store this value, and your DME is maxed at the limit, it can't count any higher. Not suggesting this should give you heart ache!, just thought it was an interesting observation. I suspect you will never see that value change again.
Wow. That's a really good catch. Now that you say that, that number is ingrained into my head. I think it's an old hard drive setup value back from the DOS days but I can't remember for sure.
A brief recap of items completed and new issues that have been introduced and need sorting out.
Since purchase I have:
-Replaced the AOS
-Replaced the Water Pump
-Changed coolant
-Magnetic drain plug
-Spin on filter adapter
-Checked oil pan for debris (nothing significant)
-Switched to JG XP9
-Installed IPD Plenum (frivolous, but will be interested to pull a dyno on it)
-Installed Fabspeed super cup mufflers (previously muffler bypass, added 30lbs
-Replaced throttle cable
-Replaced front rotors w/ sebro slotted
-installed front adjustable thrust arm bushing to decrease caster and make room for my NT01s.
While trying to change the wheel carrier last minute due to a worn wheel bearing, I introduced the following issues that may have impacted the handling of the car:
-ABS hooked up incorrectly
-switched to non GT3 LCA on right rear (original was seized in wheel carrier)
-Rear driver wheel was out of alignment
-In addition, I did not bed in the new rotors
So now adding to the to the above list:
-replace LR sub frame
Parts are ordered and looking forward to getting everything back together correctly. Will be driving the silver car at AutoX and track until this one is sorted, tested, and feeling totally awesome again.
Might want to add brake lines to the list. In your other pics they look OE. I'd be inclined to change brake lines on a 15y/o street car, on a track car every 2yrs.
Good catch. Ya, I was surprised that they are original. I hadn't considered that they were a maintenance item though. I have a set of ECS stainless on my shelf from two failed attempts on my silver car (need to find a GOOD flare wrench.) I'll add that to the list and get them swapped.
Just to verify, the SuperCups were over 15# per side?
No,that number includes having to add back on the muffler brackets, tips and the sleeve fittings from cat to muffler. The bypass just had a u-bolt clamp. The super cups were 9# per side and then the brackets 4# and the sleeves added another 1# per side. The tips accounted for the rest but I think they were about equal to the bypass system. So it may have been 28# total.
06-17-2016, 11:09 PM
