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Despite the amount of research I did, it was still pretty shocking to see it all fit together....
996 Cup Upright
JRZ 996 Cup 3-way remotes
Eibach 900F/1000R springs with helpers
Tarret Camber Plates
996TT Front Caliper and bolts
'05 Cayenne 330mm rotor (notice no screw hole)
I was able to reuse wheel sensor, axle stub, hard brake line from C2 front caliper. Also upgraded to monoballs on the GT3 LCA. All front components are now solid except for sway bushings.
Very cool to see it all coming together! I've read on other threads where we can upgrade our front rotors to 330mm girodiscs with c2 calipers. The cayenne rotors look like a cheaper alternative. They should fit with a stock C2 caliper, no?
Your statement about the thrust arm is correct. The only advantage you would get from changing that to a heim joint style is caster adjustment.
What are your plans for the rear?
Last edited by sweet victory; 01-31-2017 at 05:04 AM.
Solid subframe bushings, cup uprights, and monoball cup LCA's. For brakes I'm going to try moving the front C2 brakes to the rear. If that doesn't work or gives too much rear bias, I will drop down to 996TT rear calipers. They both use the exact same pads but the C2 fronts have larger pistons than the TT rears.
Spoke too soon. Cayenne rotor is off by about a mm. Just enough keep it from getting centered on the carrier. Going to move to caliper spacers and 350mm rotors as they are much easier to source than 330mm 996.1 Cup rotors. At this point, my budget for the project has long since been blown and I just need to do what it takes to get see it through to the end.
Great thread - cool to see this much time and effort invested in a 996. I actually looked at buying that car. I'm just starting the weight loss program for the 99 SP996 I did purchase. Door glass and door guts came out this weekend, sunroof and related apparatus came out a few weeks ago. Interior is pretty well stripped and will have the roof replaced with a metal skin shortly . Will replace the quarter and rear windows with lexan. Probably won't tackle the dash and wiring until next winter (looks messy). How hard is it to remove the heater core and associated plumbing? BTW we need some more SP996 folks in the northeast.
Glass out, sawzall plugged in ready to carve out weight.
Sunroof crap - I'll have the total weight loss figure for a sunroof to skin conversion soon.
Gutting doors of motors, regulator and glass saved about 15 lbs.
Looks great! If you want to get more aggressive with the door there is even more savings to be had.
Heater core and heat/air plumbing took some work but it was big gains. The worst part though is getting the heater pipes from behind the gas tank. If you cut them off at both ends going in there isn't even a lbs up in there. But you can't leave them rattling around so you have to drop the fuel tank to get them out. It was probably the most annoying 4 hours of the project.
You're going to love the feel of your car post diet. It turns these into absolute beasts!
I think the subframe bushing are going to be a nice mod. I don't have a press or any clue how to get the existing ones out so I'm taking them to the machine shop in the morning to have them done.
The weather is supposed to be decent this weekend so they are testing a few cars at the track and I got invited. Lol. If UPS does their job and I don't hit any more snags, then I'm going to try and get her back together in time to go. It's kind of a long shot though.
You can pick up a 10-12 ton press for under $200 new. It would be a great addition to your shop! A 5ish ton arbor press would also be a good tool to have for pressing out smaller bearings/bushings. You can get a used, us made arbor press for cheap on e-bay.
A press would be nice. I assume I would also need some kind of adapter kit? It just seems like I could screw a lot of things up with 12 tons of force but I'm sure it's just a learning curve like anything else.
The GT3 350mm fits great and solves that issue. Unfortunately it's cross-drilled instead of slotted and weighs 6lbs more than the C2 rotor per a side. Ouch! I'll be able get the weight back down with a 2-piece rotor later on if I like this setup.
The Agency Power spacers looked fine and everything lined up well when I mocked it up. Except for the fact that the diameter on the included caliper bolt was too small. Good thing I had given up on getting to the track today already as this would have been a show stopper.
997 GT3 Master Cylinder. I had been told it would and it wouldn't fit. The woulds were correct.
This mod is all about trying to improve feel, especially with the larger brakes. Other than having better feel for modulation, I don't expect any of the brake upgrades to effect lap times.
Got the tranny back from Gbox in Colorado. Not only were they the cheapest, but I can't say enough about how good they were to work with. Stan is crazy knowledgeable about all aspects of tracking 996s.
I thought I was upgrading my LSD but since my old one was free spinning and doing nothing, I'll actually be getting an LSD for the first time. They also replaced the pinion bearing, 1st gear synchro, mount and sent the original LSD to Quaife to get rebuilt prior to shipping to a fellow RL'er.
Got the tranny back from Gbox in Colorado. Not only were they the cheapest, but I can't say enough about how good they were to work with. Stan is crazy knowledgeable about all aspects of tracking 996s.
I thought I was upgrading my LSD but since my old one was free spinning and doing nothing, I'll actually be getting an LSD for the first time. They also replaced the pinion bearing, 1st gear synchro, mount and sent the original LSD to Quaife to get rebuilt prior to shipping to a fellow RL'er.
Cool. I have a feeling that my LSD is in the same non-functional condition.
01-31-2017, 12:38 AM
