Hammerthrow

Sweet victory: My car has no aftermarket electronics installed. The electrical system is all original and untouched. I drove it right up until a few hours before losing the key, and the car was in perfect working order at that point, with never any electrical malfunctions. Battery is about 7 months old, but was likely drained down to zero by the dash cam I left plugged into the lighter outlet when I locked the car the final time prior to losing the key.

jhbrennan

Maybe...owner's manual refers to using a "donor" battery and the picture shows a full size battery...but no further description. Sounds like you're closer to success.

sweet victory

Also, tell the garage manager to **** off. It's the tow truck driver's problem, not yours.

https://www.progressivecommercial.co...operty-damage/

CarlOrton

Just providing some additional input based on some of the comments made here, based on my "new key" experiences thus far. Oh yeah - 2001 C2.

On Tuesday, April 5th, I purchased a new key blade and remote head from my local Porsche dealer. $268, tax and programming not included. PCA discount applied. They said it would be 2-3 days to come in. Based on that, I'm assuming it's coming from PCNA; other comments in this thread hinted that the key comes from Germany. Not disputing, only pointing out info my dealer gave me. As I type this, it is the AM of the 3rd day; no word yet.

Side note: I originally thought about purchasing a key remote from eBay, and using the "key in the mail" company for a new blade. My local preferred indy said they *could* program it, but they'd really like me to take it to the dealer.

While at the dealership to order the key, I spoke to the service dept about whether I could just drop in to have them reprogram it. They said they'd like me to make an appt, and to be prepared, because SOME times it takes several tries to get the programming to stick. He said that while it's rare, they've seen 3-4 hour attempts to do the programming. So, the comments made above may not be that far off-base as some think.

jhbrennan

Not unusual at all to get 2 day delivery out of Germany - almost everything comes by air freight now.

fpb111

Hammerthrow I remember that you are not in the US. Also Porsche keys from different countries use different frequencies for the transmitter, at least between US and Europe. Was your car imported. Are they sure the correct transmitter frequency is being used?

Hammerthrow

My car was originally purchased in Japan. Since the keys were made by Porsche Germany to match my car's VIN number, shouldn't any Porsche PIWIS system be able to sync them with the ECU? I am no longer in Japan, and obviously bringing the car to Japan for programming would not be impossible.

Edit: you are onto something regarding the frequency of the remote. Japan's original frequency is 315mhz, but the local frequency here is 433mhz. If Porsche Germany sent a 433 MHz key fob, this is why it will not sync. Will update and let you know. Thanks for all input and advice guys.

Hammerthrow

Is there any way to check the frequency of the key fobs using the paperwork they sent?

fpb111

According to the part numbers in Auto Atlanta you have the 315 MH transmitters. Japan same as US? Not sure if the PIWIS speaks 315,433 etc or different countries dealerships have frequency specific models.


http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...=99663724442#a

Hammerthrow

Yeah, the PIWIS system should be able to communicate with the ECU, especially since the car functioned perfectly and without any fault codes right up until being parked.

CBR786

This is the biggest BS I have ever hear especially coming from a dealer ??. I had the exact same thing happen to me and it was no problem what so ever.

Car was left for 1 year in underground car park battery completely dead lost keys!
What I did

1) ordered new key pre cut from main dealer
2) opened car drivers door
3) put electrical pulse through cigarette lighter and everything lit up flickering etc at this point no hesitation quick flick of electrical connector on bonnet switch and hey presto bonnet open!
4) if it is not opening which is strange as it should then with electrical connection maintained to cigarette lighter port and slave battery in footwell shut the drivers door. Use the key turning in door barrel to unlock all Central locking. Re enter car!
5) if that still fails for some strange reason ?? Then with electrical connection still maintained through cig lighter if fitted with electric seats then move the nearside seat forwards using a impact wrench or socket undo rear seat bolts. Move seat back undo from seat bolts.
6) tilt seat back now that it is no longer bolted down and unplug Alarm module and leave it unplugged!
7) now try opening bonnet !
8) in any case when all keys are lost to a car a new Virgin Alarm module is needed which needs to be plugged in before attempting to try to program a new key into the car ! Also you need the IPASS CODES ASWELL AS PST2 tester or piwis.

I managed to do all this myself as I have a Porsche computer & access to IPASS CODES. For my car all I needed was to buy a virgin alarm module !

Then code that alarm module to the ECU then use the Learn functions to program new key !

It was very straightforward, I managed to program a key start car all with in 4 minutes from entering and that included removing seat bolts as well to remove alarm module and plug new module in.

Your dealer seems incompetent to me! I do not think it is a Porsche dealer ? Programming keys is some thing dealers are aware of !

Hammerthrow

Thanks for your detailed post. Very helpful! So every time a person loses both keys, a new alarm module is required? I have not ordered a new alarm module. My car is at an official Porsche dealership, but I should note that I don't think they were doing business in this country officially until the 2000's, and not in a large capacity until the 997 was released. Their experience with 911s is mostly limited to the 997 and newer models. The 911 is an exceedingly rare car here. This is likely the first 996 they've seen with both keys lost.

dporto

Wow! This looks like a total nightmare scenario...I've got nothing to add but to let you know I'm following with interest, and wish you the best!

CBR786

Yes with out a virgin Alarm module the existing Alarm module locks out all communications with ECU and alarm module ! Surely they have workshop manuals the Key programming procedure is detailed in them. They are available on CD off eBay for a couple of £$€¥ what ever currency you use ! I am in UK and here I can open up a existing Alarm module and I know which chip to remove & I rewrite that chip with Virgin Data so in essence an old alarm module becomes a new alarm module!

But in your case you need a new Virgin alarm module not a used one as it will not work, plus you need IPASS codes plus you need Porsche computer! And the key you are trying to program must have the RFID pill in the remote head of that is missing then it will not program. In your case I think the key heads are good because they new! The blade is good that's new ! But you are still using old Alarm module !

ONCE NEW ALARM MODULE INSTALLED IT NEEDS TO BE PAIRED TO CAR ECU THEN A KEY NEEDS TO BE ADDED TO ALARM MODULE SIMPLES REALLY AMAZING THEY DO NOT ASK TECHNICAL SUPPORT !

CBR786

Make sure they know exactly what they are doing ! You only have once chance of pairing alarm module with ECU. If they type in the wrong numbers and alphabet sequence they will rewrite the Virgin alarm module with wrong data !!! Then you will have to buy a new alarm module again to re do the procedure. Make sure they have a copy of the workshop manual and follow the key programming procedure carefully ! It is imperative that they check double check before hitting the save button on computer as ,once wrong codes are imputed you have junked a virgin module!

If you get stuck I will try to dig up procedure it's been a while since I did this as I have sold my water cooled Porsches and now have aircooled 964 & 993 cars, 😂😂😂