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Ah yeah, I almost definitely need new engine mounts, which is why going semi-solid is on my list of things to consider. I might also do one of the transmission mount inserts at the same time. Too many parts to mess with!
I like the transmission inserts as well. Much cleaner than a full swapout in the mk1's.
The throttle has the adjustable extension plate (optional) that brings it almost level with the brake. The brake and clutch pedals are a little larger also. I wasn't sure about the feel at first but it's turned out to be a really nice setup.
Well, just confirmed that my oil pan has the tinsiest tiniest leak after installing the deep sump X51 baffle upgrade. :grrr:
Oh well, chalk it up as another learning experience. Getting lots of opportunities to improve through repetition while working on this car. Lol.
Edit: Definitely went quicker the second time. Found where the loctite 5900 bead was a little to far to the inside on a straightaway and created a small gap. Should be good this time.
I was actually surprised that the original baffle was as beefy as it was.
It is beefy and since it's submerged in oil, it has a very low chance of the plastic getting brittle since it doesn't have to face high heat situations.
The biggest deficit though is the lack of two critically important baffling points to contain the oil. If they would've added just those two baffles you see on the right hand side, it could've made all the difference.
So I finally got the car back on the track for my second DE day ever. I’ve been exploring the limits of cars since I could drive but now I’m finally doing it in the proper setting. Both times were at Hallet but the first was CCW and this time was CW direction. So I had to learn the line each time from instructors and the weather was pretty similar. According to race optimal, the CW direction should have been about .5 second slower using a miata as a reference car. Here’s the comparison.
Day 1 – CCW – Able to hit 1:40s and 1:41s consistently without traffic
Wheels/Tires – Turbo Twists w/ Pilot Super sports 225/40/18F 265/35/18R – 38psi f/r
Pads – EBC Red Stuff
Suspension – Stock
Alignment - Unknown
Day 2 – CW – Consistently running 1:35s and 1:36s
Wheels/Tires – CCW C10 w/NT01 245/40/18F and 315/30/18R – 34psi f/r
Pads – Hawk DTC70
Suspension – KW V3 Coilovers Bump/Compression 6/6F 3/6R,
Tarret GT3 Sway bars and Drop Links (3F/3R)
Alignment – Toe – 0F/.25R, Camber - -1.8F/-2.5R
The car felt amazing. The car was much more responsive, it handled predictably with no float, and the braking was consistent and never faded. There was still some understeer that needs to be dialed out but it was only noticeable when I got on the throttle too early (a tendency of mine) mid corner and was trying to fight to hold my line exiting the corner. Here is a video using Harry’s Lap Timer on my Iphone with a Bluetooth ODB II connection.
And here is an updated build cost. Posting this may seem weird to some but to me it’s just more data. I really wish more people would track and post theirs as I find it fascinating.
3/15/2016 99 911 C2 Coupe w/79k miles $14,500
3/25/2016 Extra Center Console (used) $150
3/28/2016 Durametric $560
3/28/2016 Oil Change Kit and Adapter $333
3/28/2016 Numeric Shifter (blem) $600
3/28/2016 Water pump $373
3/29/2016 AOS $250
4/11/2016 Powder coat wheels $360
4/11/2016 Brakes - Pads and Fluid $375
4/11/2016 Spark Plugs $130
4/11/2016 Windshield $380
4/13/2016 Coilovers (used) $2,100
4/17/2016 17" Track tires and Wheels (used) $400
4/17/2016 DTC-70 Pads $440
4/17/2016 Motul600 Brake fluid $60
4/19/2016 FVD Oil Sump and Baffle $565
4/19/2016 XP9 Oil and Filter $191
5/4/2016 NT01 Tires $940
4/26/2016 Tarret GT3 Sway Bars, Drop Links, Rear Toe Link $1,500
5/4/2016 CCW 18x9 and 18x12 Wheels GT3 Offset (used) $1,200
4/26/2016 Rennline Pedals (used) $150
4/26/2016 Recaro SPD Seat (used) $420
5/12/2016 Seat Brackets $120
5/13/2016 Alignment $250
5/15/2016 Dual Sky Pro GPS , GO Point ODB II and Mount for Harry's $290
Total: $26,637
Slakker- Nice! Glad to see everything come together. Now the trick is to stop modding so you can learn to drive with a consistent platform. Try to get at least 6 days under your belt without changing the car.
I have to say, I don't see how that aftermarket baffle would work better than the OEM. Someone help me out here. The whole issue is under sustained lateral loads, the oil pushes to the side of the pan and stays their (left turn, all the oil moves to the right of the pan). The OEM has taller walls that curve around. In my mind, the aftermarket pan would allow more oil to spill around the side of the baffle since it doesn't curve around like OEM.
Good advice. I needed to hear that. I know the old timers told me to keep it stock with street tires but I just didn't like the way it handled. Both my M3 and 997tt(in sport mode) felt much better. Now it feels like I hoped it would.
One question, should I install the GT3 lower control arms to fix the caster and get the front camber to -3.5 or just rock what I got for now?
Good advice. I needed to hear that. I know the old timers told me to keep it stock with street tires but I just didn't like the way it handled. Both my M3 and 997tt(in sport mode) felt much better. Now it feels like I hoped it would.
One question, should I install the GT3 lower control arms to fix the caster and get the front camber to -3.5 or just rock what I got for now?
Well it looked like it drives ok. I guess I'd only be in a hurry to buy control arms if your tire wear is terrible (front outside tire edge). Just from a cost perspective.
05-13-2016, 11:44 PM
