I never had an issue with the lugs - my only real reason for making the swap is the issue with the boogered threads. By switching to the studs, I'll eliminate the issue (or at least make it a non-issue for a while)...

 

do the speed bleeders save any time?
You still have to open them one at a time, right?
With a motive, there is no pedal pumping, just open the bleeder and .....

 

Got it. Good move!

 

I got a set of 14x1.5 taps on Amazon for like $15. Stud install is easy, but tedious because of the double nut thing. I ended up buying a large single nut at Ace hardware for this.

If you need extra lugs, I have a few...

-td

 

Thanks for the offer! If I get fed up with the stud install, I may come knocking.

The set of studs I got has a hex opening in the tip so they can be driven in without using the double-nut process, although I will probably have to resort to that for the two holes with imperfect threads.

That is a respectable set of lug bolts - and I like your stash of tire plug kits as well.

I see your security lug bolts are where they belong as well - in a drawer, not on the car.

 

I don't use them at the same time - the speed bleeders make it easier to push the pistons in during brake pad changes.

 

Well, the mailman has come and gone, and I can now offer the following correction:
The online photo of the set of studs I got has a hex opening in the tip so I assumed that they can be driven in without using the double-nut process

In reality, the end of each stud is rounded with no opening for a hex, torx, or any other driver bit - so I'll be double-nutting it after all.

That sounds much dirtier than it will be in reality.

 

Studs installed today - piece of cake. The hardest thing was getting the double-nut loose after torquing the studs down. Even the two holes with the semi-boogered threads went smoothly.

Took if for a test drive, everything was perfect - and then as I was rechecking the torque values to make sure nothing worked loose, my torque wrench RUDed* all over the driveway. I took this as a sign it was time to stop working in the garage for the day, so I put it all back together and called it quits.

*Rapid unscheduled disassembly

 

Follow-up: After a day for the thread locker to cure and a hundred miles or so of driving, I removed a couple of the new lug nuts to see if the Loctite was doing its job - and I'm happy to report that each one I tested resulted in only a lug nut; I did not find any issues with the studs backing out or any other indications that the job was anything but a success. Woot!

Had I just wanted to ditch the lug bolts, this would have been a lateral move; since it also eliminated the cross-threading issue and will make R/R of the pax rear wheel much easier from now on, I consider this an upgrade. Very happy with the Pelican kit.

Note to anyone who does this: Make sure you do a great job wrapping the lug nuts you use for installing the studs. I boogered up the finish on two of 'em - but since they're not visible at all, no big deal.

Off to order a few spacers for the rear - now that I have the extra stud length, might as well put it to work.

 

Yep to the spacers.

15 mm spacers on my Boxte' after the studs were installed. Quite pleased with it.

 

Cheater car....

Front, back, or both with the 15 mm spacers?

 

Which stud kit did you buy and from where?

 

Spacers? Ah, I misspoke. Darn auto-correct. Speakers, new speakers in the car. Yeah, that's it. Speakers.

 

I understand those 15mm speakers pump out some mighty bass.

 

Update: After less than two years, three out of the five studs on my driver-side rear wheel failed while I was driving approx. 45MPH on surface streets. I heard one let go and immediately felt the car get screwy.

I have no idea if this is common, uncommon, or a completely freak occurrence, but...it's a data point. *shrug*.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...one-wheel.html