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I started the new year in a bad foot! I accidently kinked and punctured my 996's refrigerant line intake pipe (see pix).
Is there any way to repair this line, as opposed to change the entire line? Does anyone know what the magnitude of pressure in this pipe is? In other words
, can one cut the 2 inch section and graft something in there?
Was it a floor jack incident? That's a low pressure line and if the AC still works fine I don't think I would change it. I doubt you need AC near as much like we do down south.
The pressure is probably in the 40 to 50 PSI while AC is running and no more than 100 PSI when off and equalized.
The lines are in sections when you decide to replace the damaged part.
Yes KrazyK; it was a jack accident. It was punctured and the gas leaked out. Although I live in Canada, the AC is badly needed in cold weather, as it is sometimes used to evacuate the moisture in air.
Unfortunately, it is very difficult to find a used one in this neck of the woods; that is why I wanted to see whether I could repair it by removing the 1 inch damaged zone.
Thank you for your input any way.
PS. BTW, I believe pipe No. 10 in the drawing is the low pressure one; my damaged pipe is No.6 in the photo; are you sure it is the low pressure line?
Here is the diagram with part numbers and cost. Although that looks like a real PITA to replace, I would order a replacement line and install. In the long run it will be better. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=813-25
Yes KrazyK; it was a jack accident. It was punctured and the gas leaked out. Although I live in Canada, the AC is badly needed in cold weather, as it is sometimes used to evacuate the moisture in air.
Unfortunately, it is very difficult to find a used one in this neck of the woods; that is why I wanted to see whether I could repair it by removing the 1 inch damaged zone.
Thank you for your input any way.
PS. BTW, I believe pipe No. 10 in the drawing is the low pressure one; my damaged pipe is No.6 in the photo; are you sure it is the low pressure line?
Cheers,
Zack
My A/C remains fully disabled(***) during the colder months, only enabled for actual cooling needs..
Always use "FRESH" airflow mode and defog or keep the windshield defogged using HEAT, unlike A/C, "works every time"
***: Manually operated SPST switch back wall of glove box opens the compressor clutch circuit.
You don't need AC to defrost it only speeds it up. Why not look on the net for a good used one or call some socialist junk yards. If you cut the piece out, it would need to be welded in and I'm not so sure welding a pressure pipe that thin is possible. It will be cheaper to find a good used one. Whale Tail Porsche Parts is only 20 from me and they specialize is taking apart Porsches only. Call Randy and see if he has the part. I think he might.
You don't need AC to defrost it only speeds it up. Why not look on the net for a good used one or call some socialist junk yards. If you cut the piece out, it would need to be welded in and I'm not so sure welding a pressure pipe that thin is possible. It will be cheaper to find a good used one. Whale Tail Porsche Parts is only 20 from me and they specialize is taking apart Porsches only. Call Randy and see if he has the part. I think he might.
A polite note, if I may.
"Defrost" generally applies only to frozen moisture on the exterior of the windshield.
Defog/demist applies to condensate on the interior surface wherein climatic conditions will determine the success of the A/C to defog/demist the interior surface.
Yes, I meant defog. Up here we refer to both as defrost. AC only speeds up defogging. Regular air will do the same job only a bit slower.
"...AC only speeds up defogging...."
No, with an OAT below 35dF AC is completely and TOTALLY non-functional for defogging the interior glass surfaces. Generally speaking AC is rarely viable for defogging at temperatures below 50dF.
"..only a bit slower..."
If the outside atmosphere's Rh is high enough that an AC evaporator at ~34dF can quickly bring it to dewpoint, then yes. But that is a rare situation indeed in "our" northern climate.
The BEST procedure to remove interior windshield fogging most quickly and for certain is FRESH airflow intake, defog/demist mode, MAXIMUM blower speed and cabin temperature setting.
No, with an OAT below 35dF AC is completely and TOTALLY non-functional for defogging the interior glass surfaces. Generally speaking AC is rarely viable for defogging at temperatures below 50dF.
"..only a bit slower..."
If the outside atmosphere's Rh is high enough that an AC evaporator at ~34dF can quickly bring it to dewpoint, then yes. But that is a rare situation indeed in "our" northern climate.
The BEST procedure to remove interior windshield fogging most quickly and for certain is FRESH airflow intake, defog/demist mode, MAXIMUM blower speed and cabin temperature setting.
If the AC can be used in addition, fine.
When the temperature is high enough for the AC to stay on, it makes is absulotely faster to defog than just regular outside air. AC dries the air out so when it hits the glass, it can absorb the moisture a lot faster than untreated outside air.
Once again a 996 thread digresses into useless drivel about nonsense that in no way helps the OP.
To the OP, you have the diagram, the part #'s and costs. As stated before, it is indeed the low pressure line AKA as the suction line. Replace it, evacuate system, re-charge, done.
If your not familiar with AC work, yes, it will be expensive.
01-01-2016, 10:06 PM
Damaged (KINKED) Refrigerant line intake pipe
