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I'll be honest, if you are already 'worried,' this hobby may not be for you. Things will break. A Porsche will cost you money, more money than a Honda. You can bank on that as a fact.
With that said, get a thorough PPI from a good shop - and not one that has serviced the car previously. Don't get ahead of yourself. Be prepared to walk away if it doesn't pass muster. And finally, get what you want, not what you can find. Be patient and find the car with the right options in the color you want. It may take a while, but you'll be glad you did. My advice is to find a car with lots of options, like full leather, PSM, and Bose/Litronics. Of course a base C4S has all that, plus the turbo bodywork. Great car if you find a good one.
Let me add I bought an '03 C4 Cab early this year with only 31k miles. So far I've had to replace the driver's window regulator, two regular oil/filter changes. Oh, one other thing re PM - I had them clean out the radiator openings
in the front. Lots of crap had wound up in there.
The AOS was done under dealer warranty. The IMS is original. What I've done to allay my fears is to have the oil filter replaced every 2k miles - and I have them cut it open to look for any metal fragments.
The only "negative" I've found is due to the car not being driven daily, I find I have to use a battery tender to keep the battery up to snuff.
Noobie here - is a 4S appreciably more maintenance than a RWD?
I'm looking at a used one in a few days and welcome any and all advice!
60K miles, no change in IMS, RMS - but owner claims to have no issues (I'm still worried anyway).
Thanks to you all!!
As others have said "Not really."
There's the extra diff which gets its fluid changed on the same schedule as the rear but the "extra" maintenance is negligible in the overall scheme of things.
But be aware there are more things to go wrong. Front diff seals can leak. The front axle boots can require replacement and if these fail and let dirt in the CV's you could be facing new half shafts.
The front diff could fail.
Also, the viscous coupling could fail.
But most front diffs and most viscous couplings don't fail. CV boots are a "wear" item but when they will need replacement with possibly a cleaning of the CV's and packing with grease varies.
Be sure you give the car a thorough road test and verify the diff (front and rear) are quiet and there are no other issues.
After the road test check that all the car's subsystems are working.
Follow this with a PPI that among other things gets the car in the air so a careful check can be made for any issues. The biggie is leaks. But of course bent/damaged suspension hardware, signs of accident damage, etc. need also be checked for.
Noobie here - is a 4S appreciably more maintenance than a RWD?
I'm looking at a used one in a few days and welcome any and all advice!
60K miles, no change in IMS, RMS - but owner claims to have no issues (I'm still worried anyway).
Thanks to you all!!
also, grind the hell out of the seller - show fear of no replacement IMS bearing and how everyone is telling you to stay away from the car - grind on seller like there is no tomorrow - if you do it right and be persistent, it can pay for 1/2 the IMS/clutch bill. put seller in a holi-daze
From: Ephrata, PA, USA now. Originally from the UK
Originally Posted by porschemikeandnancy
Let me add I bought an '03 C4 Cab early this year with only 31k miles. So far I've had to replace the driver's window regulator, two regular oil/filter changes. Oh, one other thing re PM - I had them clean out the radiator openings
in the front. Lots of crap had wound up in there.
The AOS was done under dealer warranty. The IMS is original. What I've done to allay my fears is to have the oil filter replaced every 2k miles - and I have them cut it open to look for any metal fragments.
The only "negative" I've found is due to the car not being driven daily, I find I have to use a battery tender to keep the battery up to snuff.
You should not have to use a battery tender if you keep the car fully locked every time you leave the car. Even inside your own garage. I drive mine at least 10 miles every 2 or 3 days during the day light hours. Hardly ever use the disc or radio and never had to use a tender. The engine kicks up first time, every time.
You should not have to use a battery tender if you keep the car fully locked every time you leave the car. Even inside your own garage. I drive mine at least 10 miles every 2 or 3 days during the day light hours. Hardly ever use the disc or radio and never had to use a tender. The engine kicks up first time, every time.
also, grind the hell out of the seller - show fear of no replacement IMS bearing and how everyone is telling you to stay away from the car - grind on seller like there is no tomorrow - if you do it right and be persistent, it can pay for 1/2 the IMS/clutch bill. put seller in a holi-daze
then yer sittin pretty!
It might not hurt to "insinuate" that the seller may just be selling so as to avoid having to bite a $3000 bullet for a clutch/IMS/RMS job. Not at all unusual for the clutch to be on borrowed time at 60K miles, and many owners choose to also do the IMS & RMS at the same time as the clutch.
And although I agree that a PPI should not be done at the same shop the seller has been using, it might be worthwhile to find out what shop the seller has been using, and "quietly" contact them to get their feedback on the car. The prospect of getting the next owner of the car (i.e., you) as a future customer may persuade them to confide to you about past work and pending issues.
But that said, it's a great car.
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