Scored cylinder failure for your 996, Y or N? tell us (yr, 996 Mk1 or MK2)
#67
Nordschleife Master
updated my original post
Yes 2002 C4S, driven daily up until 2012, winter driven and left outside in freezing every work day in winter.
2008 76k km started a rhythmic ticking and noticed it burning more oil then normal
2010 106k km the tick was louder and burning more oil, used to go through at least 1 liter a track weekend, started blue smoke under cold startup but fine after it's warmed up.
2012 120k km I had it scoped, #4 scored
2016 Now at 136k km ticks loud when cold until warmed up and driven hard, then the tick gets quieter, blue smoke at cold start for about 20 seconds
2018 Now at 137k km. Engine apart #4 #5 #6 scored bad at the top. 1-3 are good.
2008 76k km started a rhythmic ticking and noticed it burning more oil then normal
2010 106k km the tick was louder and burning more oil, used to go through at least 1 liter a track weekend, started blue smoke under cold startup but fine after it's warmed up.
2012 120k km I had it scoped, #4 scored
2016 Now at 136k km ticks loud when cold until warmed up and driven hard, then the tick gets quieter, blue smoke at cold start for about 20 seconds
2018 Now at 137k km. Engine apart #4 #5 #6 scored bad at the top. 1-3 are good.
#68
2002 C4S, purchased 4/2016 with 47k miles. Motor running well with no noises. Burning about a QT per 1500 miles and rear left exhaust sooty since purchased.
Driven daily even into winter. Around 64k miles in 1/2017, developed a tick. Oil consumption not really changing, no blue smoke at startup.
Jan 2018, 78k miles. Tick slowly developed to a knock over last year. Oil consumption still is not much worse. Car runs very well and has nice power. Starting to use Redline 5W50 now.
Over the last year I have used Ceratec as I know the end of the engine may be soon anyway. However, I am still getting good UOAs. I also have very little metallic paste on magnetic drain plug. Oil filter is always clear. I suspect the cylinder clearances are just getting to loose.
My guess is that I have another 10-15k miles before the knocking becomes to embarrassing to keep driving. To maximize the time left before the rebuild, I am driving somewhat conservatively when it comes to over 5k revs.
At least it will be fun weighing out all the rebuild options. Hopefully that will be a 2019 activity.
Driven daily even into winter. Around 64k miles in 1/2017, developed a tick. Oil consumption not really changing, no blue smoke at startup.
Jan 2018, 78k miles. Tick slowly developed to a knock over last year. Oil consumption still is not much worse. Car runs very well and has nice power. Starting to use Redline 5W50 now.
Over the last year I have used Ceratec as I know the end of the engine may be soon anyway. However, I am still getting good UOAs. I also have very little metallic paste on magnetic drain plug. Oil filter is always clear. I suspect the cylinder clearances are just getting to loose.
My guess is that I have another 10-15k miles before the knocking becomes to embarrassing to keep driving. To maximize the time left before the rebuild, I am driving somewhat conservatively when it comes to over 5k revs.
At least it will be fun weighing out all the rebuild options. Hopefully that will be a 2019 activity.
#71
Rennlist Member
2002 C4S, purchased 4/2016 with 47k miles. Motor running well with no noises. Burning about a QT per 1500 miles and rear left exhaust sooty since purchased.
Driven daily even into winter. Around 64k miles in 1/2017, developed a tick. Oil consumption not really changing, no blue smoke at startup.
Jan 2018, 78k miles. Tick slowly developed to a knock over last year. Oil consumption still is not much worse. Car runs very well and has nice power. Starting to use Redline 5W50 now.
Over the last year I have used Ceratec as I know the end of the engine may be soon anyway. However, I am still getting good UOAs. I also have very little metallic paste on magnetic drain plug. Oil filter is always clear. I suspect the cylinder clearances are just getting to loose.
My guess is that I have another 10-15k miles before the knocking becomes to embarrassing to keep driving. To maximize the time left before the rebuild, I am driving somewhat conservatively when it comes to over 5k revs.
At least it will be fun weighing out all the rebuild options. Hopefully that will be a 2019 activity.
Driven daily even into winter. Around 64k miles in 1/2017, developed a tick. Oil consumption not really changing, no blue smoke at startup.
Jan 2018, 78k miles. Tick slowly developed to a knock over last year. Oil consumption still is not much worse. Car runs very well and has nice power. Starting to use Redline 5W50 now.
Over the last year I have used Ceratec as I know the end of the engine may be soon anyway. However, I am still getting good UOAs. I also have very little metallic paste on magnetic drain plug. Oil filter is always clear. I suspect the cylinder clearances are just getting to loose.
My guess is that I have another 10-15k miles before the knocking becomes to embarrassing to keep driving. To maximize the time left before the rebuild, I am driving somewhat conservatively when it comes to over 5k revs.
At least it will be fun weighing out all the rebuild options. Hopefully that will be a 2019 activity.
Even on engines that don't have scoring, we have seen ovality and taper issues lead to noisy cylinders. The best thing you can do there is make sure you use a good quality oil and make sure you keep the engine cool. Add a low temp thermostat and pull your bumper cover and make sure your radiator isn't blocked with road debris, which impedes airflow and reduces cooling system efficiency.
#72
Rennlist Member
What should the trim levels be and what will they read if the injectors are bad?
#73
Rennlist Member
Another good test for health of the engine is to pull a manometer reading from the oil fill cap. Tony Callas at Callas Rennsport offers a kit along with instructions and values for most modern Porsche models.
#74
Rennlist Member
Thanks Charles!
#75
If you have access to a Durametric or PIWIS, check your fuel trim values (FRA, RKAT). We've seen a direct correlation to bad (dirty/leaky) injectors wiping cylinders out.
Even on engines that don't have scoring, we have seen ovality and taper issues lead to noisy cylinders. The best thing you can do there is make sure you use a good quality oil and make sure you keep the engine cool. Add a low temp thermostat and pull your bumper cover and make sure your radiator isn't blocked with road debris, which impedes airflow and reduces cooling system efficiency.
Even on engines that don't have scoring, we have seen ovality and taper issues lead to noisy cylinders. The best thing you can do there is make sure you use a good quality oil and make sure you keep the engine cool. Add a low temp thermostat and pull your bumper cover and make sure your radiator isn't blocked with road debris, which impedes airflow and reduces cooling system efficiency.