Normal coolant temp?
10-19-2015, 02:18 PM
#16
10-19-2015, 02:30 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 5,960
Likes: 0
Received 1,198 Likes
on
767 Posts
You can get the oil temperature with Durametric. I don't know where the sensor is for oil temperature. Would be interesting if any knows if the Android apps that people are getting to read other things from the car happens to read the oil temperature as well.
10-19-2015, 02:36 PM
#18
You see what the DME sees.
No Android app can retrieve that info because you need something like Durametric hardware interface to the OBDII port to access the second K-line. No other generic OBDII reader can do that (they all access the 1st K-line for OBDII data).
10-19-2015, 02:43 PM
#19
BTW, I start to see how an electronically controlled thermostat can improve things tremendously here. Basically you can place the temp sensor(s) at the ideal location(s). The limitation of the mechanical thermostat is you can only place it in one place and it needs plumbing to where you place it so it may not be practical.
But then it will be susceptible to electrical gremlins and may do more harm than good...
But then it will be susceptible to electrical gremlins and may do more harm than good...
10-19-2015, 03:56 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Agreed. I always warm up the engine before flooring the gas pedal. I also do cool down drive after a hard drive and not just stop the car immediately.
Also, if after I stop the car I hear the radiator fans running, I'll let them finished before turning the engine off. The worst temp build up is right after the engine is stopped so I try to avoid stopping the engine when it's too hot.
Also, if after I stop the car I hear the radiator fans running, I'll let them finished before turning the engine off. The worst temp build up is right after the engine is stopped so I try to avoid stopping the engine when it's too hot.
Well and part of it too, these cars just seem to run pig rich when they first start up and go through the warmup loop. That, and not to mention any oil that's getting burnt just can't be good for the combustion chamber or anything really.
So someone who doesn't drive the car, and starts it up once a month to let it idle in the winter, gets a great spring morning, starts it up, off to the races, and all the junk built up on the piston causes detonation, some of the crap loosens up, pistons get blowby, and cylinder gets scored.
That's the other half of my Monday morning armchair quarterback guessing.
It's funny though, even if these run a bit hot they are still in the operating temp of a high performance engine.
10-21-2015, 09:49 AM
#24
Burning Brakes
If you check out the diagram below, you can see the coolant is circulating around the cylinder heads and cylinders whenever the engine/water pump is spinning. At idle the speed will be lower and at WOT the speed will be higher.
When the engine is cold, the coolant only circulates within the engine block to speed up bringing the coolant up to operating temperature. The thermostat is closed so the radiator flow (green) is blocked.
Once the coolant temp approaches the set temp, the thermostat starts to open and let the green radiator flow start, diverting part of the hot flow (on the upper right) after the cylinders/cylinder heads to the radiators. The flow returned from the radiator can now be mixed with the red flow at the thermostat (since the thermostat is open now). The thermostat will sense the temp of the mixed flows and regulate the opening depending on the sensed temperature.
You can see that the coolant sensor is at the return path of the coolant after the cylinders/heads and NOT AFTER the radiators, which returns on the left side to the thermostat.
Attachment 983172
I have no idea what Jake refers to but my guess is the overheated parts are part of the inside of the heads (responsible for cracked heads), which overheats even before the coolant can be sensed by the thermostat/temp sensor.
When the engine is cold, the coolant only circulates within the engine block to speed up bringing the coolant up to operating temperature. The thermostat is closed so the radiator flow (green) is blocked.
Once the coolant temp approaches the set temp, the thermostat starts to open and let the green radiator flow start, diverting part of the hot flow (on the upper right) after the cylinders/cylinder heads to the radiators. The flow returned from the radiator can now be mixed with the red flow at the thermostat (since the thermostat is open now). The thermostat will sense the temp of the mixed flows and regulate the opening depending on the sensed temperature.
You can see that the coolant sensor is at the return path of the coolant after the cylinders/heads and NOT AFTER the radiators, which returns on the left side to the thermostat.
Attachment 983172
I have no idea what Jake refers to but my guess is the overheated parts are part of the inside of the heads (responsible for cracked heads), which overheats even before the coolant can be sensed by the thermostat/temp sensor.
I still question how the thermostat is operating in this picture. The coolant exit temperature from the rads is well below the rad inlet temps, which are close to the engine exit temps.
If the car is out running hard (up a mountain pass) on a cold day at 70 mph, the rad exit temps could be below 100 deg F, while the engine coolant exit temps would be much higher (around 190 I would think), and at the low rad exit temp, the thermostat wouldn't open. On your diagram, the green arrow flow (rad exit) is presented to the thermostat to make a open/close decision.
10-21-2015, 11:47 AM
#25
Normal coolant temp?
The sensing part of the thermostat (brass tube, spring side) points to the right so it"s submerged in the red flow therrefore sensing the cylinder output temp, until the thermostat opens, at which point its sensing the combined temp of the mixed red and green flows. Basically it regulates the temp of the coolant temp entering the cylinders. The temp sensor reads the coolant temp after the cylinders. Hope that makes sense.
Ahsai,
I still question how the thermostat is operating in this picture. The coolant exit temperature from the rads is well below the rad inlet temps, which are close to the engine exit temps.
If the car is out running hard (up a mountain pass) on a cold day at 70 mph, the rad exit temps could be below 100 deg F, while the engine coolant exit temps would be much higher (around 190 I would think), and at the low rad exit temp, the thermostat wouldn't open. On your diagram, the green arrow flow (rad exit) is presented to the thermostat to make a open/close decision.
I still question how the thermostat is operating in this picture. The coolant exit temperature from the rads is well below the rad inlet temps, which are close to the engine exit temps.
If the car is out running hard (up a mountain pass) on a cold day at 70 mph, the rad exit temps could be below 100 deg F, while the engine coolant exit temps would be much higher (around 190 I would think), and at the low rad exit temp, the thermostat wouldn't open. On your diagram, the green arrow flow (rad exit) is presented to the thermostat to make a open/close decision.
10-21-2015, 07:23 PM
#28
10-22-2015, 12:50 PM
#30
