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Oil top up - what to use?

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Old 07-30-2015, 01:03 PM
  #16  
Chiamac
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Originally Posted by kromdom
oh, the day is still young

And the lubrication specialists haven't posted yet.
Old 07-30-2015, 01:06 PM
  #17  
kromdom
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Originally Posted by Chiamac
And the lubrication specialists haven't posted yet.
if/when they do, boobies won't be too far behind. heck, and heinies too.
Old 07-30-2015, 01:22 PM
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ezdriver
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Originally Posted by Chiamac
Different schools of thought.

- There are 9 or so quarts of oil in one of these, adding another one to top it off of a different brand isn't going to do much as long as it's an approved oil.

- Change it all because it's a new to you car and start from scratch.

- Go online and buy a microscope, change the oil and filter, look at filter through the new to you microscope while wearing a rolex and posting pictures on here. Freakout at anything that looks like anything in the oil filter, wonder about your IMS, RMS, PMS, SOS...

- Wear your Rolex and take it somewhere with a hot receptionist that charges $300 for a oil change.


No matter what you do be sure to ask if they use a new virgin crushwasher on the drain plug and that they torque it down to spec and (since it was a virgin) that they brag about it later to friends.


[edit] with warm/hot oil those 9 or so quarts comes out fast. Be SURE to have a large enough pan or device to catch it all and/or/both do it in a friends driveway or yard in case you make a mess.
I like it. Of course the best option is - Change it all because it's a new to you car and start from scratch....and the crush washer.
Old 07-30-2015, 01:24 PM
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alpine003
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Surprised no one mentioned this so: get yourself a microscope, look out for weeping virgins, and something about a crush washer which I forgot...
Old 07-30-2015, 01:31 PM
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DBJoe996
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Mobil 1!!
Old 07-30-2015, 01:33 PM
  #21  
wyovino
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Pretty sure the torque for the drain plug is 19 ft/lbs, not 37. At least that's what it is for the LNE Magnetic plug
Old 07-30-2015, 01:39 PM
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Chiamac
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Originally Posted by wyovino
Pretty sure the torque for the drain plug is 19 ft/lbs, not 37. At least that's what it is for the LNE Magnetic plug

19 makes more sense with a virgin crush washer, 37 is starting to get pretty high - so they must be regular German crush washers and not virgin ones?
Old 07-30-2015, 01:59 PM
  #23  
kromdom
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Originally Posted by wyovino
Pretty sure the torque for the drain plug is 19 ft/lbs, not 37. At least that's what it is for the LNE Magnetic plug
correct and concur with LNE mag plug torque spec. OEM plug is 37 per service manual.
Old 07-30-2015, 02:15 PM
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DBJoe996
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Indeed! But how do you know your torque wrench is accurate? You must send it here and have it tested for accuracy for $5,965:
National Institute of Standards and Technology
100 Bureau Drive, Stop 8222
Gaithersburg, MD 20899-8222
http://www.nist.gov/calibrations/force.cfm#23060s
Only then will you truly know that you are applying "***** on accurate" 19 ft/lbs of torque. I think anything less is just well....well....ummmm...silly?
Old 07-30-2015, 02:20 PM
  #25  
wyovino
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Originally Posted by kromdom
correct and concur with LNE mag plug torque spec. OEM plug is 37 per service manual.

Thanks for the clarification. I switched to the LNE plug with my first oil change.
Old 07-30-2015, 03:24 PM
  #26  
fpb111
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Use only the finest Castor Bean oil, as specified for the early 356 Hirth Roller bearing crank engines.

http://flymotorsports.com/blendzall-...FdYSHwodX80FmQ
Old 07-30-2015, 04:30 PM
  #27  
KNS
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
Indeed! But how do you know your torque wrench is accurate? You must send it here and have it tested for accuracy for $5,965:
National Institute of Standards and Technology
100 Bureau Drive, Stop 8222
Gaithersburg, MD 20899-8222
http://www.nist.gov/calibrations/force.cfm#23060s
Only then will you truly know that you are applying "***** on accurate" 19 ft/lbs of torque. I think anything less is just well....well....ummmm...silly?
All joking aside, you should get your Torque calibrated periodically. I have mine checked every few years and it always comes back within spec. Just did it again recently and it was off through out the entire range. It's not expensive - we usually only use the Tq wrench on critical fasteners so....

Also, for those that aren't aware, always set the wrench back to zero when you're done with it. Working in aviation these are little things I've learned over the years. The mechanics I work with have to have their Tq wrenches calibrated once a year (for obvious reasons).
Old 07-31-2015, 05:13 AM
  #28  
Ian Dean
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Originally Posted by Fracture
http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-instructions/

Ian, you may want register at Renntech, there should be DIY here too
Thanks for the link. That is really helpful

Ian
Old 07-31-2015, 11:51 AM
  #29  
Macster
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Originally Posted by Chiamac
And the lubrication specialists haven't posted yet.
Well, I'm not a lube specialist but I know the importance of doing this job right and just as importantly how to do it right.

You guys give the new guy, the OP, a load of snarky comments and suggest an oil change for one of these cars is no more involved than a Lawnboy lawn mower oil change.

I feel sorry for the OP. I hope he gets the right info form the DIY link at renntech.

He got nothing of any value you the rest of you here.
Old 07-31-2015, 12:33 PM
  #30  
Chiamac
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Originally Posted by Macster
Well, I'm not a lube specialist but I know the importance of doing this job right and just as importantly how to do it right.

You guys give the new guy, the OP, a load of snarky comments and suggest an oil change for one of these cars is no more involved than a Lawnboy lawn mower oil change.

I feel sorry for the OP. I hope he gets the right info form the DIY link at renntech.

He got nothing of any value you the rest of you here.


I'm getting old, the Lawnboys I'm used to didn't have any oil to change.


Anyway, I'm sorry, but this isn't rocket science and it's really no more involved than my changing the oil on my waterpump guzzi motorcycle engine, the 4.0 Jeep, or my Gf's Jetta. The only difference is the massif amounts of oil that go into one of these things and that it's a little more expensive than the above mentioned vehicles.

[edit] I'm sorry, the Guzzi requires me to take out 14 bolts and drop the pan to replace the filter, or buy a $300 external filter sump. So, in a way that's MORE complicated than changing the oil on one of these cars.

Ok, maybe, maybe, I'll give you the point that the oil filter for these is different, but that's easy enough to find instructions for.

Really the hardest thing about it is not making a mess, which is why I suggested a friends driveway.

=)


And I'm sorry that you can't have some fun with a oil thread in an otherwise slow week.


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