First DIY maintenance this upcoming weekend
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 192
Likes: 21
From: SoCal
First DIY maintenance this upcoming weekend
Hey everyone,
I'm psyching myself up to do my first 'real' maintenance this upcoming weekend, assuming all parts arrive by then. On the docket is a driver-side catalytic converter replacement, plug/coil change, and motor mount replacement. I'm working on a 2002 C2 with just under 80K miles. No record of plugs/coils ever being replaced. Driver-side cat throwing a P0420 CEL every now and then (increasing frequency).
I've done a ton of research here, as well as Renntech, the 101 Projects for your 996 book, Youtube, etc. No one process looks particularly difficult, but I am a relative newbie on car maintenance. I want to get my hands dirty and learn, so this seems like a relatively good place to start.
My very rough plan of action is to do things in this order:
Does that seem like the right order? Any particular words of wisdom? I've got tools, a selection of ratchet extension wrenches,good spark plug socket, torque wrench, a 1/4" socket/driver for the 5mm coil screws, etc. All purchased based on tips from the various threads I've been looking at. Pretty sure I have all the tools I'll need. It's a California car with no rust, and all the nuts/bolts look to be in good shape. I'll hit them with penetrating oil ahead of the work this week.
I've read a lot of threads including those who say it took them >2 days to do the plugs, etc. I really want to get all of the above done in 1 day tops, so any advice or even encouragement would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
-Don
I'm psyching myself up to do my first 'real' maintenance this upcoming weekend, assuming all parts arrive by then. On the docket is a driver-side catalytic converter replacement, plug/coil change, and motor mount replacement. I'm working on a 2002 C2 with just under 80K miles. No record of plugs/coils ever being replaced. Driver-side cat throwing a P0420 CEL every now and then (increasing frequency).
I've done a ton of research here, as well as Renntech, the 101 Projects for your 996 book, Youtube, etc. No one process looks particularly difficult, but I am a relative newbie on car maintenance. I want to get my hands dirty and learn, so this seems like a relatively good place to start.
My very rough plan of action is to do things in this order:
- Chock front wheels, jack up, get rear on jack stands.
- Remove rear wheels (loosened up while still on ground).
- Remove mufflers, hopefully keep bumper on.
- Remove driver side catalytic converter (take off O2 sensors first)
- Replace plugs/coils with what I hope is enough clearance for my non-dainty hands.
- Replace motor mounts while car is up and hopefully relative ease at getting to underside mounting hardware. (I know this is easy to do with car on ground and nothing apart, but figured this may make life easier while up).
- Replace driver side catalytic converter (DEC direct-fit).
- Replace mufflers.
Does that seem like the right order? Any particular words of wisdom? I've got tools, a selection of ratchet extension wrenches,good spark plug socket, torque wrench, a 1/4" socket/driver for the 5mm coil screws, etc. All purchased based on tips from the various threads I've been looking at. Pretty sure I have all the tools I'll need. It's a California car with no rust, and all the nuts/bolts look to be in good shape. I'll hit them with penetrating oil ahead of the work this week.
I've read a lot of threads including those who say it took them >2 days to do the plugs, etc. I really want to get all of the above done in 1 day tops, so any advice or even encouragement would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
-Don
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 192
Likes: 21
From: SoCal
Thanks. The good news on that front is that I replaced the factory CR220 with a Double-DIN Pioneer Appradio 4 last weekend. (Wow was that original radio bad!)
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 6,022
Likes: 324
From: Overland Park, KS
If you do disconnect the battery, place a rag over your frunk latch to keep from locking yourself out of the frunk. I know you can attach a battery to the fuse block, but easier to just prevent the frunk from latching. Also, while you are at it, make sure your emergency hood release wire is positioned so that you can reach it easily if you ever need it.
IIRC, you don't need the car raised to do the motor mounts - you just stick the jack under the engine and raise the engine enough to take the weight off the motor mounts. One big nut holding up the weight of the motor on the bottom of the mount and three small ones on top holding the mount in the correct location. Only a one or two beer job I believe.
Wear gloves doing the exhaust work as you'll probably be dealing with some rusty parts there and don't want to gash yourself on rusty metal when a stuck nut breaks loose.
IIRC, you don't need the car raised to do the motor mounts - you just stick the jack under the engine and raise the engine enough to take the weight off the motor mounts. One big nut holding up the weight of the motor on the bottom of the mount and three small ones on top holding the mount in the correct location. Only a one or two beer job I believe.
Wear gloves doing the exhaust work as you'll probably be dealing with some rusty parts there and don't want to gash yourself on rusty metal when a stuck nut breaks loose.
Track Day
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Don,
I just recently replaced my motor mounts and plugs. Both are pretty easy.
On the plugs, I found it really helpful to have a long 5mm ball end allen key to get to the upper coil screws. I also found it helpful to have the 3/8in. "wobble" extensions. This will allow you to go through the holes in the muffler bracket which will make your life much easier. Also, don't do what it did and put on anti-seize on the plugs. I ended up taking the plugs back out and cleaning them. Not to start a whole thread on that topic
. Lastly, I think the 2002 has the spark plug tubes, not sure, if so, you may want to have a spare tube and o-rings available just in case.
Good luck.
I just recently replaced my motor mounts and plugs. Both are pretty easy.
On the plugs, I found it really helpful to have a long 5mm ball end allen key to get to the upper coil screws. I also found it helpful to have the 3/8in. "wobble" extensions. This will allow you to go through the holes in the muffler bracket which will make your life much easier. Also, don't do what it did and put on anti-seize on the plugs. I ended up taking the plugs back out and cleaning them. Not to start a whole thread on that topic
. Lastly, I think the 2002 has the spark plug tubes, not sure, if so, you may want to have a spare tube and o-rings available just in case. Good luck.
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,286
Likes: 1,514
From: Ormond Beach, FL
Consider taking the rear bumper and heat shields off. It really is not that difficult to do..maybe 10-15 minutes of wrenching. That way you get really good access to the mufflers/cats. Your order sounds well thought out. The plugs and coils should be a breeze with the mufflers/cats out of the way. The motor mounts will be a lot easier with the car on the ground so you can slide a jack under the car to support the engine. Since you will have the air box out for the right motor mount, consider doing the serpentine belt and a new air filter. Again, pretty easy to do since you will have access. Have fun!
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 192
Likes: 21
From: SoCal
Thanks everyone. I really appreciate the feedback. Sounds like I'll add disconnecting the battery, stuffing a rag in the frunk latch, and getting myself a set of wobble extensions to the list. Won't use anti-seize as I've seen multiple references to avoid it.
I believe the 2002 does NOT have the tubes on the plugs (at least from what I've read), so I'm hoping I don't encounter them and have to call an audible while I'm in there.
DBJoe, good news is that the belt was replaced recently just before I bought the car last month and I changed the air filter within the last couple of weeks as well. Good suggestion for the next time I'm at it though.
For those of you who have recently done this, how likely is it that I'm going to break a bolt on the exhaust? It's tough to judge from all the threads I've been reading, but it seems like the exhaust system bolts are pretty likely to break. Can't tell of those are largely specific to rust-prone areas, or just as likely everywhere due to the heat. The ones I can see look largely-rust free, but given exposure to heat, what do I know?
I believe the 2002 does NOT have the tubes on the plugs (at least from what I've read), so I'm hoping I don't encounter them and have to call an audible while I'm in there.
DBJoe, good news is that the belt was replaced recently just before I bought the car last month and I changed the air filter within the last couple of weeks as well. Good suggestion for the next time I'm at it though.
For those of you who have recently done this, how likely is it that I'm going to break a bolt on the exhaust? It's tough to judge from all the threads I've been reading, but it seems like the exhaust system bolts are pretty likely to break. Can't tell of those are largely specific to rust-prone areas, or just as likely everywhere due to the heat. The ones I can see look largely-rust free, but given exposure to heat, what do I know?
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Joined: Oct 2014
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For those of you who have recently done this, how likely is it that I'm going to break a bolt on the exhaust? It's tough to judge from all the threads I've been reading, but it seems like the exhaust system bolts are pretty likely to break. Can't tell of those are largely specific to rust-prone areas, or just as likely everywhere due to the heat. The ones I can see look largely-rust free, but given exposure to heat, what do I know?
I gave a quick shot of "Pb Blaster" like 30 min before I started wrenching on the bolts and when I removed my mufflers, the bolts came out easy without issues (SoCal car here though). It was really easy , but I had removed the bumper/heat shields.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 390
Likes: 41
From: Overland Park/Kansas City
1. Use PB Blaster instead of WD-40 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-1...-THD/202597469
2. Spray and soak the bolts overnight. The next day, the lubricant will have "penetrated" the threads a bit, which will make breaking them much easier.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 60
Likes: 3
you forgot a few things like...
Drop off mufflers at local exhaust shop for Gundo hack
and the last and most important step, crack open beer and appreciate your hardwork.
hopefully you can leave off the things that I always have on these lists.
1. bandaid 3rd bloody knuckle
2. swear profusely at problem
3. toss those 2 unidentified extra screws into dark corner of toolbox and pray they were not needed.
Drop off mufflers at local exhaust shop for Gundo hack
and the last and most important step, crack open beer and appreciate your hardwork.
hopefully you can leave off the things that I always have on these lists.
1. bandaid 3rd bloody knuckle
2. swear profusely at problem
3. toss those 2 unidentified extra screws into dark corner of toolbox and pray they were not needed.
