MkII AOS DIY
05-03-2016, 05:07 PM
#32
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Oh boy, looks this is like a big 9-DIY on a 10 scale, assuming 10 is for the ISM bearing/Engine rebuild job... I just hope my AOS will last a while longer, if not I will have to take it to dealer or a good Porsche Indie and pay the price... At that time, it may make sense to also do the IMS/RMS upgrade. WOW, you guys are tough DIY'ers, good job!
It's crazy that a part that is essentially a wear item requires so much work to get to it.
05-03-2016, 06:55 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
I agree - just finished mine today and it was excruciating, even with the transmission out. I did lower the engine and then was able to get a socket wrench with extension on the invisible rear bolt on the AOS. I never could get the clamp off the top coolant hose so I broke the nipple off and worked on it with the AOS in the garbage can. Reinstall of the new AOS was better but still not easy and I used a worm type clamp on that top coolant hose just in case I ever need to get near it again.
If this thing leaks I may open a credit line at the dealer!
If this thing leaks I may open a credit line at the dealer!
08-14-2017, 02:34 PM
#35
996 Motorsport AOS
Thanks for the informative post Ahsai! And thanks for the answering some of my questions via PM. Much appreciated.
Just wanted to add to this post regarding the Motorsport version of the 996 AOS. It is an expensive option, but if you are having oil ingestion issues on the track, it is an option.
The 996 107 926 00 version installs in our Mk 2 cars very straight forwardly (is that a word?). I believe it is easier to re-install than a stock version due to the access to the front manifold screw. The taller motorsport version gives access to the front mani screw. This allows you to install the AOS completely before putting bank one mani back on. I replaced the front most mani screw with a socket head cap screw (my mani screws were flanged 10 mm hex screws). This allowed me to use a 1/4" drive long ball end 5mm allen driver to tighten the front screw. Still not "easy", but I suspect a lot easier than a hex socket given the room back there.
The only change needed to run this AOS is a re-route of the bank two vent line (item 4 in the diagram earlier in this thread). It no longer will run under both manifolds then to the bottom of the AOS. It now connects to the top of the AOS pointing towards the passenger side of the car. I routed around the bank two mani, down the front of the motor, then back up to the connector. I protected the plastic corrugated plastic hose in a few spots with rubber to prevent chafing. I was already replacing hose #4 due to a leak caused by chafing on a bracket, so make sure to protect this hose. There is some good spots to zip tie it, and try to isolate it from moving/vibrating.
Again thanks to Ahsai, and to Pelican Parts for a good overview and pictures. Pelican's DIY is for Mk 1, but it does give you good general info.
Just wanted to add to this post regarding the Motorsport version of the 996 AOS. It is an expensive option, but if you are having oil ingestion issues on the track, it is an option.
The 996 107 926 00 version installs in our Mk 2 cars very straight forwardly (is that a word?). I believe it is easier to re-install than a stock version due to the access to the front manifold screw. The taller motorsport version gives access to the front mani screw. This allows you to install the AOS completely before putting bank one mani back on. I replaced the front most mani screw with a socket head cap screw (my mani screws were flanged 10 mm hex screws). This allowed me to use a 1/4" drive long ball end 5mm allen driver to tighten the front screw. Still not "easy", but I suspect a lot easier than a hex socket given the room back there.
The only change needed to run this AOS is a re-route of the bank two vent line (item 4 in the diagram earlier in this thread). It no longer will run under both manifolds then to the bottom of the AOS. It now connects to the top of the AOS pointing towards the passenger side of the car. I routed around the bank two mani, down the front of the motor, then back up to the connector. I protected the plastic corrugated plastic hose in a few spots with rubber to prevent chafing. I was already replacing hose #4 due to a leak caused by chafing on a bracket, so make sure to protect this hose. There is some good spots to zip tie it, and try to isolate it from moving/vibrating.
Again thanks to Ahsai, and to Pelican Parts for a good overview and pictures. Pelican's DIY is for Mk 1, but it does give you good general info.
08-14-2017, 03:23 PM
#36
Drifting
Motorsports AOS
Thank you for taking the time to write up the tedious details. That is exactly what we need !
Now if we could reduce the price of the Motorsport AOS to less than $700..... The regular AOS is 10% of the price of the Motorsport version.URO - are you reading this ???
To help(?) with future bolt removal - replace with internal hex/Allen /socket head bolts?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg7.htm#item23
Now if we could reduce the price of the Motorsport AOS to less than $700..... The regular AOS is 10% of the price of the Motorsport version.URO - are you reading this ???
To help(?) with future bolt removal - replace with internal hex/Allen /socket head bolts?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg7.htm#item23
Thanks for the informative post Ahsai! And thanks for the answering some of my questions via PM. Much appreciated.
Just wanted to add to this post regarding the Motorsport version of the 996 AOS. It is an expensive option, but if you are having oil ingestion issues on the track, it is an option.
The 996 107 926 00 version installs in our Mk 2 cars very straight forwardly (is that a word?). I believe it is easier to re-install than a stock version due to the access to the front manifold screw. The taller motorsport version gives access to the front mani screw. This allows you to install the AOS completely before putting bank one mani back on. I replaced the front most mani screw with a socket head cap screw (my mani screws were flanged 10 mm hex screws). This allowed me to use a 1/4" drive long ball end 5mm allen driver to tighten the front screw. Still not "easy", but I suspect a lot easier than a hex socket given the room back there.
The only change needed to run this AOS is a re-route of the bank two vent line (item 4 in the diagram earlier in this thread). It no longer will run under both manifolds then to the bottom of the AOS. It now connects to the top of the AOS pointing towards the passenger side of the car. I routed around the bank two mani, down the front of the motor, then back up to the connector. I protected the plastic corrugated plastic hose in a few spots with rubber to prevent chafing. I was already replacing hose #4 due to a leak caused by chafing on a bracket, so make sure to protect this hose. There is some good spots to zip tie it, and try to isolate it from moving/vibrating.
Again thanks to Ahsai, and to Pelican Parts for a good overview and pictures. Pelican's DIY is for Mk 1, but it does give you good general info.
Just wanted to add to this post regarding the Motorsport version of the 996 AOS. It is an expensive option, but if you are having oil ingestion issues on the track, it is an option.
The 996 107 926 00 version installs in our Mk 2 cars very straight forwardly (is that a word?). I believe it is easier to re-install than a stock version due to the access to the front manifold screw. The taller motorsport version gives access to the front mani screw. This allows you to install the AOS completely before putting bank one mani back on. I replaced the front most mani screw with a socket head cap screw (my mani screws were flanged 10 mm hex screws). This allowed me to use a 1/4" drive long ball end 5mm allen driver to tighten the front screw. Still not "easy", but I suspect a lot easier than a hex socket given the room back there.
The only change needed to run this AOS is a re-route of the bank two vent line (item 4 in the diagram earlier in this thread). It no longer will run under both manifolds then to the bottom of the AOS. It now connects to the top of the AOS pointing towards the passenger side of the car. I routed around the bank two mani, down the front of the motor, then back up to the connector. I protected the plastic corrugated plastic hose in a few spots with rubber to prevent chafing. I was already replacing hose #4 due to a leak caused by chafing on a bracket, so make sure to protect this hose. There is some good spots to zip tie it, and try to isolate it from moving/vibrating.
Again thanks to Ahsai, and to Pelican Parts for a good overview and pictures. Pelican's DIY is for Mk 1, but it does give you good general info.
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 10-04-2017 at 02:37 PM.