Dropped my '99 off at a body shop for pdr. The frunk release lever won't budge though. It acts like it is locked. Engine cover releases easily. Since this is a'99 should be cable actuated release. Is there some sort of lock to prevent the lever from releasing? My ignition switch is acting up so wonder if that might be the cause?

 

Nope, there's no lock - just the mechanical release. But sometimes the mechanism can get jammed, or the cable may work away from the latch body. Search around for emergency front trunk release cable threads and see if the backup cable will work for you.

The '99 front and rear trunk release levers have "ears" that prevent them from operating when the driver door is closed. That's about as old-school as you can get for security.

 

Passenger or driver side headlight for the emergency release? Sorry but my phone won't let me search the forums.

 

Right side. Have you tried to push the hood (1 inch below the emblem) down a bit when releasing?

 

I've also taken a slim jimmy bar under the frunk lid to pry it up when having someone pulling thee release lever. When you get it open look at the adjustable rubber bumpers on the inside of the lid. It needs tension to release it.

 

Well, it turns out that there is an electric locking mechanism under the frunk and engine release lever module. It locks the frunk but apparently not the engine cover. My guess is that it is controlled by the alarm system. Once we got the frunk/engine cover lever mechanism out, we played around with the locking mechanism for a bit. I suspect that since my ignition switch is acting up, it is affecting that lock mechanism.
In the end, after getting the frunk open, I rerouted the emergency release wire through a slit I cut in the rubber liner of the front right air intake. So all is well.

 

Really? Sorry for the misinformation. I've had that area disassembled and do not remember any solenoid or other lock-esque hardware.

Wait, the locking hardware is below the lever, on the driver's doorsill?

 

I thought the 99 was pure mechanical cable pull. I wouldn't start playing with the ignition switch until you confirm this is even possible. Are you sure it isn't the mechanism that only lets you pull the lever when the driver's door is open?

I guess that thingamajob could be electronic and the ignition switch could screw with it.

 

Yes, below the lever mechanism on driver's doors sill. I should have taken a photo because I thought it was all mechanical too. There is a white plastic loop about the size of a dime that an arm from the lever mechanism fits into. The loop slides back and forth horizontally which actuated the lock within the lever mechanism.

 

I can confirm this. There is some sort of electronic lock that prevents one from pulling on the release lever (well you can pull but it won't move) when the drivers side door is closed. I think the idea is to prevent you from opening the Frunk while driving. This is how it works on my '99 cab anyway.

 

OK, I swung by NAPA this morning and paid my $12.50 ($11.49 plus tax) for a new ignition switch. Walked into the body shop with small flat tip screwdriver bit in hand plus new switch. 12 minutes later, voila, switch replaced and problem erased. A new record, ladies and gentlemen, 12 minutes start to finish!

I think the body shop guys got a big kick out of seeing me tear up the wheel well liners and bumper cover last night to get to the emergency release wire and then again this morning seeing me with my head in the driver's footwell swapping out the ignition switch. I overheard one of them say to the other "Isn't that guy a lawyer?" and the other one replied "Yeah, but he's president of the auto museum, too." I felt like saying, "Yeah, but the real reason I can do this is Rennlist."

By the way, technique for the ignition switch swap: Pull out the HVAC ducting piece above the clutch/brake (it's got an accordion section in the middle of it - just compress and remove). Put a towel or blanket over the driver's door ledge as a cushion. Run the driver's seat all the way back. Lay with your head jammed up against the left side of the driver's footwell, right arm down by your side. Have an LED light (LEDs stay cool) by your left ear pointed upward into the abyss. Use your left arm to reach up into the abyss and pull the purple plug off the switch and stuff it out of the way behind some other wires. Then grab your very, very narrow flat blade screwdriver bit (just the tip of a screwdriver that you would load into an electric drill - and it must be a very narrow tip like a large jeweler's screwdriver) in your left hand and unscrew the two set screws two or three turns each (if the switch has never been replaced, the screws will be covered with red wax - just chip it away with screwdriver tip). Pull out the old switch. Push in the new switch. Tighten the two set screws. Put the purple plug back on the end. Reinstall the ducting in the footwell and you're done.

 

Nice work. Given the amount of stuff this DIY fixes, and how much money you save by doing it yourself, it's probably one of the most rewarding DIY projects.

 

By the way, thanks for the help last night guys. The body shop workers also thought it was awesome to post a help topic on a forum and getting the first answer 2 minutes later!

 

I found unless you open the doors with the remote, the frunk stays locked - even if you use the key to get in and turn the motor on - frunk will stay locked.

 

We tried locking and unlocking with the key and the button on the center console. No joy, though. I really do think it was stuck due to a bad ignition switch. It is amazing how many things a bad ignition switch will screw with.