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Coolant leak from where?

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Old 08-25-2014, 12:54 PM
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Hurdigurdiman
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Default Coolant leak from where?

I have a slight coolant leak which shows directly under the water pump. Before a daily run, I see green coolant on the floor maybe only an egg cup full. I check after the run when the engine is hot (running or not) and see or hear nothing. The lowest point of the drip is a green drop below the thermostat area. It only appears sometime during the cooling process of the engine. First question, IF the coolant reservoir was split, would the coolant from the tank appear in the driver side (LHD wheel arch)? If so, then I can concentrate on the actual pump gasket or the thermostat and pump. I hate like hell having the disturb rubber pipes of the pump and thermostat, dropping part contents of coolant into a bucket, removing the pump and fitting a new gasket or even a pump when neither was needed in the first place, only to find that the slight leak was coming from the reservoir. The problem for me is when I see the small pool on the floor in the morning, the heat of the engine has already dried up any trace of where is might be coming from. I have the air box and serpentine belt off right now. All brackets away and can see and feel around the gasket but all is dry. In fact the only thing to do is remove the hoses and 7 pump mounting bolts and the pump should be out. The spin by hand is free and quiet with no play what so ever in the pulley. If it was rough in any way I would be changing the pump right now. The car has done 71500 and I don't know if this is the original pump and thermo. Thanks for any advice in advance.
Old 08-25-2014, 02:22 PM
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kromdom
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Have you considered a PRESSURE test? FWIW, this was the VERY first thing my indy did (after a quick visual of the WP, lines/hoses, reservoir). Best of luck.
Old 08-25-2014, 02:24 PM
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Dennis C
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Leaks can be hard to track down sometimes. FWIW - my water pump began to leak before I replaced it.
Old 08-25-2014, 02:30 PM
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Macster
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If you get the car in the air the odds are very good you'll spot the leak source. Coolant leaks leave a nice trail.

I would not unbolt anything just yet.

What you can do is perform a poor man's hot coolant pressure test.

Top of the coolant tank with distilled water. Do not overfill but bring the level up to where it should be cold.

Be sure the cap is clean and where the cap threads/seats is clean and install the cap.

With the A/C off drive the car around until the engine is fully up to temperature. You want to hear/feel the radiator fans come on.

Back home raise the engine RPMs to say 1500 and hold until the radiator fans come on. Then shut off the engine.

As the heat load from the engine raises the coolant temperature and pressure any leak will probably show itself, sometimes with a dramatic gush of very hot coolant, so be careful.

Given the location of the coolant I'm WAG'ing water pump. If this is leaking it can be visually verified but you have to have the car in the air and where you can shine a bright light. The leak will be from a telltale hole or a seal and most of the water pump housing will be hidden/covered by the pulley. But the leak will leave a stain and in fact (with my Turbo's water pump) a nice deposit of dried anti-freeze residue.
Old 08-25-2014, 02:40 PM
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DBJoe996
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My first WAG is your water pump pulley seal is leaking. That tends to show up as a drip or coolant spot directly under the water pump, although it can travel along the motor block and show up under the lower coolant hose. At 71,500 miles it's about time for a new water pump anyway. Recommendation - since you are going to drain most of the coolant to remove the water pump, pull that lower hose on the thermostat, replace water pump, gasket, thermostat, thermostat gasket and then refill with a new mix of coolant/distilled water. Don't forget to burp the coolant system to remove air, and/or use the recommended vacuum fill method. This way you will have the lower part of the system done so even in the end if it does end up being the coolant tank, you've got the major part done. With that work done and a fresh refill of coolant your car will love you.
Old 08-25-2014, 02:46 PM
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Hurdigurdiman
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O k Guys I have traced the leak to the gasket somewhere behind the cog. I haven't unbolted the pump as yet. The next problem I have is removing the hoses. Is there a secret way against using screw driver under the lip of the hose and brute force to set them free from the water pump and thermostat? The sweat is tippling from me trying to pull the first one off. I have released the spring type clamp and slid it back about 2 inches. I am scared I might split the rubber and that will mean another intricate DIY job to replace with new hoses. Would it be better to loosen the 7 bolts and knock the pump free from the gasket and maybe lower it away. Then I may be able to turn the full pump in the hopes that it breaks the seal OR do the hoses have to come free before I CAN drop the pump?
Old 08-25-2014, 02:52 PM
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5CHN3LL
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If you don't have a radiator hose tool (a curved, pointy screwdriver), it can be a pain to get the hose off. Try not to tear it up too badly - otherwise, you'll be replacing it, as there isn't enough slack to cut to just cut off the torn up end.

By "behind the cog" do you mean the water pump pulley? While it's possible that the gasket is leaking, it's more likely that the shaft is leaking and you're just seeing it collect and drip from the gasket. Those metal gaskets don't often just spring leaks 15 years along...
Old 08-25-2014, 03:04 PM
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Hurdigurdiman
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Yeh 5CHN3LL from behind the water pump pulley. I have right now a screw driver between the hose and the metal and the cap off the reservoir and the coolant is running into a bucket pretty quickly. When it stops I will try to pull the hose off again with no pressure inside the line. That may work.

OK that worked for the first hose and no damage TG.
Old 08-25-2014, 03:17 PM
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The hoses are a pain to break loose and patience is required. As mentioned, the pointy radiator hose tool is invaluable. You have to work it up under the hose in multiple places and a little sil-glyde makes it easier to keep working it. It will bust loose with a good pull once you've done this. Mechanic gloves will help keep you from busting a knuckle twisting and turning, pulling and once it gives. Good luck!
Old 08-25-2014, 03:45 PM
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Macster
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
The hoses are a pain to break loose and patience is required. As mentioned, the pointy radiator hose tool is invaluable. You have to work it up under the hose in multiple places and a little sil-glyde makes it easier to keep working it. It will bust loose with a good pull once you've done this. Mechanic gloves will help keep you from busting a knuckle twisting and turning, pulling and once it gives. Good luck!
Never had to use a screwdriver or any other tool to remove hoses. Just remove the clamp and twist the hose left then right until it breaks free of its grip on the connector pipe. Never used mechanic vinyl or rubber gloves but these might help get a better grip on the hose so it can be twisted loose.
Old 08-25-2014, 04:14 PM
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Hurdigurdiman
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OK got the first hose free no damage. Took 5 of the 7.. 10 mil bolts from pump BUT 2 are real hard to get too. A normal 10 mil wrench was ok until these 2. I think I need a 10 mil socket which I don't have. So I am going shopping right now.
Old 08-25-2014, 04:22 PM
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Ahsai
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1/4" drive 10mm socket plus a u-joint will help a lot.
Old 08-25-2014, 06:26 PM
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Hurdigurdiman
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
1/4" drive 10mm socket plus a u-joint will help a lot.
I used a knuckle (u joint) and a couple of extension bars and finally got all 7 bolts off the pump. Another question. The larger rubber hose, is that going to the thermostat?.. I need to set that free as well. I had too set free the metal small pipe to make room for the pump to drop out but now the large hose is in the way. If that hose is going to the thermostat, then I intend changing that part for a lower opening temp one. When that is free the pump should drop away. Then I can inspect the impeller and change the pump anyway as the car has done 70 thousand plus as suggested in a previous posting from one of you guys. I think it's a good idea as I don't want to be on my back again and wishing I had changed it when I had the chance. I am getting older by the second and all new parts should be good for another 100,000 miles . Only one band aid used up to this point on my hand when I was taking a small pulley off to make way for wrenches and extensions for those last two bolts. I am going to be like Krazy Ken doing all this DIY work but never intend dropping an engine as he does. haha
thats not crying, that's sweating. lol
Old 08-25-2014, 06:30 PM
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Ahsai
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Yes, big hose to the thermostat. You're doing great!
Old 08-25-2014, 06:31 PM
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Does anyone know what it would have cost for a garage to change out the water pump and thermostat if I had taken the car in for a mechanic to do the job for me? Approximately. It should cost me about $350 all told plus a lot of sweat and cussing.. I changed the coolant last year so I am putting back the gallon or so which I saved in a bucket. I am wrapping it up for today as I have to get the dinner ready now for my bread knife (Cockney Slang for you yanks who don't know). No rest for the wicked. Meaning me.


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