Coolant leak from where?
08-27-2014, 03:46 PM
#31
OK thanks I will buy a small torque wrench now... The parts won't be here till the end of this week I should imagine. Give me lots of time to prep the surfaces. I am using scotch brite pads. The pump part looks very clean but there is black residue on the thermostat seating where the old gasket made contact. I am afraid it would score the metal if I use anything abrasive on it. Its very smooth to the touch so maybe good enough. You guys that's successfully changed the thermostat might give me advice on how to remove the black stain without damaging a surface. Or if I even need to bother about removing the stain anyway.
08-27-2014, 10:26 PM
#32
I actually got my torque wrench from Amazon. it arrived in a few days and I didn't have to leave the house.
I had considered using steel wool to clean the surface but decided that it was probably a bad idea. I think I ended up just using brake cleaner on a rag. After double checking that brake cleaner was safe on aluminium of course. It definitely helped clean it but I'm not sure it was necessary.
No leaks so far. I also changed to a 160F thermostat from Paragon Products since they had one at a good price.
I had considered using steel wool to clean the surface but decided that it was probably a bad idea. I think I ended up just using brake cleaner on a rag. After double checking that brake cleaner was safe on aluminium of course. It definitely helped clean it but I'm not sure it was necessary.
No leaks so far. I also changed to a 160F thermostat from Paragon Products since they had one at a good price.
08-30-2014, 07:27 PM
#33
well im almost done mine...got er out and ive put er back in.
that "1" bolt is a supreme pita. finally got it out after heading to lordco auto to get a smaller 1/4" elbow ratchet. that was where i spent the bulk of my time. ive cracked a beer in celebration without having put that bolt back in yet
thanks to all in this thread. heres some items i found that helped me out:
plus, to get my hose off i used a bicycle tire lever to pry it off. popped right off.
my original gasket was the metal one and it was in pretty good shape. there is a wobble in the bearing so it was time (coolant all over the floor was also a good indicator)
total time: 4 hours including beer time and trip to lordco. wouldnt have been so bad if it werent for that 1 effing bolt (and its a longer bolt to boot
that "1" bolt is a supreme pita. finally got it out after heading to lordco auto to get a smaller 1/4" elbow ratchet. that was where i spent the bulk of my time. ive cracked a beer in celebration without having put that bolt back in yet
thanks to all in this thread. heres some items i found that helped me out:
Hurdi, once you realize that the pump won't just drop out like it's supposed to - and before you drive yourself insane trying to pull it down and out - I suggest you take the idler pulley off that's above the pump (if you haven't already done so) and remove the pump from the top.
plus, to get my hose off i used a bicycle tire lever to pry it off. popped right off.
my original gasket was the metal one and it was in pretty good shape. there is a wobble in the bearing so it was time (coolant all over the floor was also a good indicator
)total time: 4 hours including beer time and trip to lordco. wouldnt have been so bad if it werent for that 1 effing bolt (and its a longer bolt to boot
08-31-2014, 03:14 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
Just be careful... 10NM is nothing. Most torque wrenches can't measure that little torque accurately. You can get 10NM with just a nut driver, no wrench/ratchet handle at all. With a small 1/4" ratchet, 10NM is snug and a tiny bit more.
Definitely not a torque-wrench kind of job IMHO...
Definitely not a torque-wrench kind of job IMHO...
09-04-2014, 09:54 AM
#35
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I was thinking of going getting a small torque wrench but after reading your post I am unsure if it's really necessary. What do you mean by 10NM? I know when I took these bolts out, I hardly had to put pressure on them to start them off. I was thinking of guessing a hand pressure or even fingers pressure on a normal wrench. Obvioius;ly you guessed that I had got all my parts delivered. I am halfway bolting up the pump as I type. Just got the real PITA one looking down from the top on the right from engine bay. What a time consuming one that was but at least it is up tightish right now. The others I should be able to get a lot easier. 3 left on the pump. Fingers crossed. Can anyone confirm the correct lb/ft of 7 for the pump bolts? Or point me to the DIY I saw last week on replacing the pump. I am damned if I can find it now. Thanks.
09-04-2014, 12:18 PM
#36
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
mid way through the article they state 10Nm/7.0 ft.lb for the water pump and at the end state 10Nm/7.5ftlb for thermostat bolts
mid way through the article they state 10Nm/7.0 ft.lb for the water pump and at the end state 10Nm/7.5ftlb for thermostat bolts
09-04-2014, 05:52 PM
#37
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Well the car is finished and no leaks so far. I took it out for about an hour and took it to top temp which was steady at the left side of the 0 of the 180F mark. The outside weather temps today is 81F. I will know better as the engine cools down overnight if there is a drip on the garage floor. Fingers crossed. Thanks again to all you guys for the DIY advice along the way.
BTW I didn't use anything on the bare gaskets.
BTW I didn't use anything on the bare gaskets.
Last edited by Hurdigurdiman; 09-04-2014 at 07:01 PM.
09-06-2014, 09:56 PM
#38
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Hey guys, just did my water pump back in Jan, my knuckles are still healing and my neighbors still cross the street when they see me due to the bad language. Now though I have got another coolant leak. I thought maybe it was the expansion tank or cap (seem to be the most common) as the leak is on the drivers side and forward of the block. But when I try to trace the leak it seems to be coming from a bolt on the variocam plus - driver's side top innermost bolt. I tried the hot test to see but couldnt really see if that is the source or not. There is no smoke and its only a small drip, usually dry on the floor but smells when she warms up, and the suspension is a bit wet. Im hoping its dropping from a hose somewhere higher. I dont see anything on the forums or web about a leak in this area. Any ideas?
09-07-2014, 09:43 AM
#40
Burning Brakes
Hey guys, just did my water pump back in Jan, my knuckles are still healing and my neighbors still cross the street when they see me due to the bad language. Now though I have got another coolant leak. I thought maybe it was the expansion tank or cap (seem to be the most common) as the leak is on the drivers side and forward of the block. But when I try to trace the leak it seems to be coming from a bolt on the variocam plus - driver's side top innermost bolt. I tried the hot test to see but couldnt really see if that is the source or not. There is no smoke and its only a small drip, usually dry on the floor but smells when she warms up, and the suspension is a bit wet. Im hoping its dropping from a hose somewhere higher. I dont see anything on the forums or web about a leak in this area. Any ideas?
09-08-2014, 01:24 AM
#41
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Hey guys, thanks I may post a new thread. Perryinva - I was thinking the same thing but the lack of vacuum from the crank and smoke in exhaust makes me think different? If its only a line and not a aos failure I suppose that could be. I'm going to have it pressure tested tomorrow. Today it leaked like crazy after a 5 mile run with the ac on and about 90 degrees ambient air temp, but tonight doing the same drive with the engine cool and no ac not a drop. Its my only car besides the wifes suv so hopefully its a quick easy fix. Keeping my fingers crossed.
09-09-2014, 08:38 PM
#42
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Hey Perryinva, sure enough after doing a pressure test it was one of the male connectors on the aos. Getting a quote to replace (seems to be in the 1200-1800 range) Does that sound about right?