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List of common FAQ/fixes/issues etc.

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Old 04-17-2014, 11:00 AM
  #31
DBJoe996
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On the sunroof issue, when all else fails there is a mechanical way to close the sunroof by removing the overhead cabin light panel and manually turning the motor drive. Carefully remove the two covers of the infrared passenger compartment monitoring system (the two black eyes), unscrew the two screws, fold down the cover of the lifting/sliding roof drive. There will be an allen key in a holder attached to the inside of the cover (Porsche thinks of everything) that you insert into the drive axle (overhead behind the panel), turn it clockwise and the sliding roof will close.
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:31 PM
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:41 PM
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Thanks sjg1138! I've added your links, re-org the list a bit and also added acknowledgement to the contributors!

Keep them coming, guys!
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:05 AM
  #36
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Sure Ahsai. frisbee91 just did a great write up for a Convertible Top / Clamshell issue here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...more-pics.html
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:08 AM
  #37
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Ahsai, for some reason the link under Center Console to 6speed is broken in your Master List. it works fine in my post.

Actually a bunch of the links are broken. Maybe they somehow were messed up in a cut and paste?
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Old 04-30-2014, 02:30 PM
  #38
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Originally Posted by sjg1138 View Post
Ahsai, for some reason the link under Center Console to 6speed is broken in your Master List. it works fine in my post.

Actually a bunch of the links are broken. Maybe they somehow were messed up in a cut and paste?
All fixed now. The problem is I cannot just copy and paste your links (or anyone's) directly since those links are shortened by Rennlist with the "...". If I do a copy-and-paste directly, the shortened link with "..." were copied literally so those links won't be valid when you click on them.

I had to dig up the full form of each of your original link to copy them one by one. Gotta be a better way...
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:14 PM
  #39
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A couple coolant leak posts I figured would be good in this archive thread:


Quote:
Originally Posted by dgjks6 View Post
Quick question. Smelled coolant. Looked at tank and there was coolant on the top of the tank in the crevices. Looked at cap and it was the original. I already purchased the upgraded one but never got around to putting it on. Waited a couple hours and removed the cap. Still under pressure and coolant sprayed everywhere. Changed cap. A week later and 300 miles and still smell coolant

Ahsai:
You may have a small leak developed on the tank itself where coolant dropped onto the hot muffler, gets burned off and disappear. Try to look around the top of the muffler and bottom of tank (use inspection mirror) for dried coolant stain.

The proper way to test for coolant leak is to use a pressure tester (Stant) to pressurize the system from the reservoir on a cold engine at about 18 PSI for about 20min and then trace for coolant leak/drops on the floor.

Macster:

If you do not thoroughly rinse the coolant off the engine the smell can linger for a long time.

There may be a leak, though.

You can have the system pressure tested.

Or you can do this yourself.

Be sure the cold coolant level is ok.

Be sure the cap is clean and where it screws on clean and properly installed.

Drive the car around town with the A/C off until the engine is up to temperature and has been some time.

Back at home raise RPMs to say 1K to 1500. Hold until your or a helper detects the radiator fans coming on.

Shut off the engine.

Let the car sit. The heat load of the hot engine will raise the coolant temperature and pressure. If there is a leak you'll likely spot it from the coolant dripping (or in the case of my Boxster when I did this) gushing out of a split in the coolant tank or leaking from some other location.

Ideally you would want the car in the air so the water pump area can be carefully inspected. But you can check this cold as if the water pump is leaking the chances are high there is unambiguous sign of the leaking. Anti-freeze stain. Even (as was the case of my Turbo's water pump) a build up of green anti-freeze residue between the pump housing and the pulley.

Give the radiator ducts a good sniff test for any anti-freeze odor.

The odds are very high if there is a leak this test will turn it up.
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:12 PM
  #40
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This thread hasn't had a bump in awhile so here goes! Since we are under Tropical Storm Watch today, I took a "rain day" and replaced my Oil Filler Tube. It had split apart in two places in the corrugated section. I patched it up with duct tape and zip ties until I could get the new filler tube parts and o-rings in. Fairly simple job, remove air box, TB, belt, alternator, there it was! So add that one to the list...many years, miles and heat cycles and that plastic piece literally fell apart in my hands. P-car is smiling and singing with that one fixed.
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:48 PM
  #41
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The horn sounds when there's a fault. For a critical fault, as Cuda911 mentioned, the horn sounds, but the system does not arm when in this fault condition...so you definitely want to arm it again after you close the door or frunk.

Originally Posted by Ahsai View Post
Thanks Cuda911. Looks good. Are we sure 6 is accurate? I seem to remember my car honks if my hood or door is open when I arm it.
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Old 07-05-2014, 09:54 PM
  #42
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Gotcha. Thanks.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:29 PM
  #43
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This is a great DIY for better sound at low cost

Speaker Upgrade
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...-speakers.html
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:15 PM
  #44
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Replacement oxygen sensors that cost $130 and up @ the dealership, can be identified using the Bosch part finder and purchased on Amazon for $60 to $70.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/vehicl...artfinder.aspx

Using this tool, you can find the part numbers for oxygen sensors, starters, coil packs, MAF sensor, etc.

Amazon isn't ALWAYS the cheapest place to find Bosch hardware - but in addition to good pricing, Amazon can get stuff to you next-day if you're in a bind.
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:11 AM
  #45
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I was sitting in the garage yesterday and had a curious thought process. Being of a mechanical/environmental engineering background I was thinking about part life cycles, i.e., we often measure our cars and determine what needs to be done using mileage. But there are other factors - for instance: my Durametric software will tell me how many hours the engine has run which is just as important as how many miles the car has gone. As far as life cycles, any mechanical component has a finite life cycle, such as an ignition switch. I pulled out the calculator and figured on a guess that if I use the ignition switch 4 times a day, 312 days per year (6 days a week), for 15 years (I have a daily driver 99 C2), then it has cycled 18,720 times. How many cycles does it take to kill an ignition switch?

I was wondering if it would be a good idea in the list to begin to amass some history for our older cars to determine when some components are replaced based upon hours of engine running vs. mileage (like for an AOS or MAF replacement), and estimates of life cycle usage, i.e., my ignition switch example, or a window regulator, or a starter. As our cars age like mine, 15 years, I think component life cycle becomes as critical a factor as mileage. Mileage can apply for most of the running gear components (brakes, tires, suspension, etc.) but most of the other stuff we replace/fix has more to do with how many times it has been cycled.

For instance - I had to replace the starter at about 12 years old. Based upon my example above (4 starts per day, 312 days per year for 12 years), that would have been about 14,976 starter cycles. Mine is a daily driver. Then we can surmise that regardless of mileage, one can expect about 15,000 starting life cycles before the starter needs replacement.

As our cars age and we replace common parts/fixes/issues that we all have posted about, does it make sense to include this factor? I think it does.
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