When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thank you to all who posted in this thread! We were able to get the coolant tank in our 2002 C4S by first getting the tank into the spot as far forward towards front of car (pushed into soundproofing a lot), and then the installation of the black mounting bracket. The tank can then be positioned into place and installed into the mounting bracket. Such a goofy design of all things coolant tank related. I really think the engineers could have done better. Such a pain of a project. Getting the white flange from the tank over the fuel rail nut is very difficult, unless you first install the tank, then the black mounting bracket.
I think the reason some people are having more success then others may also depend on the transmission. I tried to get my tank out last night and it seems impossible. I have the engine resting on the cross member, and even removing the 19mm nut on the fuel rail I still can't get the tank to clear the fuel rail (see bpicture below) When looking underneath you can see that it is the bellhousing from the transmission that is touching the crossmember, which is what is limiting how far down the engine assembly can go. I would imagine that there may be difference in bellhousing shape between manual and automatic transmissions. Since we are talking about millimeters here, the slight difference between the two transmissions can make it possible or impossible to do this job. I have a 2002 with an automatic trans and if I could lower the engine another quarter inch I think I'd be able to get it out, but it simply can't go any lower. Therefore the options I see are a) remove the bottom crossmember and lower the engine just a bit more (not appealing), remove the fuel rail (looks possible, but a pain), or perhaps trim the tank retaining bracket a bit (I am leaning towards that one because a new bracket is relatively cheap if necessary). For those that succeeded in removing the tank by lowering the engine to the cross members, can you comment on what transmission you have.
Mine is a manual transmission with an engine from an automatic. That 19mm "end cap" on the fuel rail was also on my engine, but with it lowered and the cap removed I was able to get my tank out. Lots more space than you are showing here.
I thought about taking off the black retaining bracket at the top, but was able to wiggle it out.
I think that the engines themselves are the same between manual and automatic cars and so are the fuel rails. The difference in removing the coolant tank is that it is the transmission bellhousing that rests on the crossmember, which determines how low the engine can go.
Now that we have a confirmation that the tank can be removed with lowering the engine on a manual car, I was wondering if anyone here can confirm that they were able to do it on a 996.2 with an automatic transmission. I don't have a picture at the moment, but unlike the manual transmission that bolts directly to the engine, the auto has an adapter plate between the engine and bellhousing (perhaps it was cheaper to do that then cast a transmission housing to match the motor directly) and I think that makes the engine rest higher than the manual car.
I did 90% and had my son rip the tank out. I just turned away. He wedged back in. I tend to go very light handed with everything. Car is an 02. Going on 5k miles, no issues. It’s too bad they don’t make an indestructible one. I won’t do again.
By the way, to complicate the matters further, there are actually 2 different support brackets in 996.2 cars, one is 99610640552 (for all cars except C4S) and the other is 99610640571 (for C4S). I don't know what the physical difference is between these two, but since millimeters make a difference here, the difference in the brackets may be significant. For those that have successfully done the coolant tank replacement, can you specify the transmission type and also if your car is a C4S or not.
I have a 2003 4S w/ a 6-speed manual. Removing the tank was a PITA, but doable. I had to drop the engine and remove the fuel fitting like stated above. What through me off is that you don't have to completely clear the black bracket, just move the tank inboard an inch or so as there are fingers on the tank and bracket that allow you to drop it after that 1-inch movement. I think initially I was trying to completely clear the bracket which isn't needed.
C2, 3.6, Tiptronic, cabriolet. Using high-lift trolley jack supported motor, oxygen sensor wires removed from their mounting clips so had slack, took nuts off mounts, lowered engine until it stopped which I guess means contacted cross member. Was surprised how far tank had to slide over so cut off protuding tube with a hack saw (didn't know it might have dropped when in between tabs). Then contacted fuel rail so removed 13mm nut, no fuel came out. Still not coming out so removed left motor mount, then took off black bracket. After it was out had idea since engine is not mounted it might be shifted away from tank location, so using prybar moved it a little.
New tank will arrive next week and will have protruding tube that I cut off old one, not sure if I'll have enough room to get tank in.
This is a great thread! Without the advice and tips from this thread, I would have been stymied. The Bently manual was not helpful. I had trouble sliding in the round spacer at the top of the black bracket, so I cut a slot in it and slid it in after starting the right side bolt.
07-20-2014, 11:10 PM
