TOPGUN8

I have an '01 996 C2 purchased in Oct. of 2013 with 21,000 miles, now with 26,000 miles on it. It's time to have the oil changed and my manual calls for Mobil 1 10-40 Synthetic. Mobil no longer makes a 10-40 synthetic that I can find. My question is:
has anyone used a blend such as half 0-40 and 15-50 to come up with a blend closer to the 10-40 recommendation? Also what should I expect the cost to be on an oil and filter change? The labor rate in my area is $117/hour. Thanks.

LexVan

Porsche has made many updates since printing your Owner's Manual.

Some quality oils to consider include Mobil 0W40, 5W50, 5W40 TD or Joe Gibbs DT40 5W40.

LexVan

That's a very fair labor rate by an Indy. Figure another $125ish for oil, filter, crush washer, and shop disposal fees.

tgt40

many, many here do it themselves, many without a lift or any other special equipment. It'll cost some dough in dools and the like but if you want to spend a few hours foolin with your toy it's time well spent!

GL!

rpm's S2

Join PCA... Somebody will have a lift. We have an occasional Sunday morning oil change party.

Macster

The owners manual is woefully out of date. Check with your dealer service department for a list of approved oils.

Mobil 1 0w-40 is probably used by the dealer, though some have switched to an approved 5w-40 oil. Mine can even get an approved 5w-50 oil if I wish.

Do not mix oils. 0w-40 and 15w-50 are not considered miscible by Porsche. Also, 15w-50 is not an approved oil.

You take an approved oil and blend it with an oil that is not approved this compromises the approved oil's qualifications and you end up with some hybrid oil that is less than the sum of its parts.

fmmoto

My franchised retailer uses 0W40 Mobil 1 as Macster mentioned above.

Sneaky Pete

WooHoo an oil thread!

fast996

+1 oil thread

BAD.TAG

Mobile One 10W-40 Syn High Mileage is available. My guess is the "High Milage" designation is some additives to promote seal longevity

Mine seemed to consume 0W-40. I've been adding much less on average of the 5W-40

Kalashnikov

OP, do you understand how oil weights work?

Do you understand what is the difference between 0w40 and 10w40?

Here is an abridged explanation: first number on the oil is the oil thickness when COLD. Second number on the oil is oil thickness when HOT.

10w40 has higher thickness than 0w40 when COLD, IE it is harder to pump when your engine is cold.

When engine is hot the 10w40 is identical to 0w40. Thickness rating of 40 for both.

This bull **** bro-science that gets posted here about how 5w40 is superior to 0w40 is nonsense.

Oils can have different additives packages, and that can make some difference. Weight difference when cold between 0w40 or 10w40 will NOT have any effect on your engine. 10w is harder to pump when engine is cold, that is it.

My factory manual recommends 0w40 and that is what I will run. If you want to run a higher weight oil you need to move to something that is 5w50, 10w50, 15w50.

pfbz

Well, not quite. You are theoretically correct, but the variations in actual oils are much more profound, and yes, there can be a huge difference between a 0w-40, 5w-40, or 10w-40 in hot/high performance conditions.

First, this magic of giving oil one viscosity when hot and another viscosity when cold is usually done with viscosity index improvers. Mobil 1 0w-40 got a bad reputation a while back because evidently it did a poor job holding its high temp viscosity rating, particularly in extreme use like driver-ed events, and it quickly broke down giving sub 40 weight performance when hot. From what I've read on BITOG, the latest Mobil 1 0W-40 (SN rating) does a much better job holding its high temp viscosity after some use than the earlier versions. A 5w-40 sacrifices some flow at very cold temperatures, but because it has fewer viscosity improvers, it typically breaks down less and maintains viscosity during high temp and extreme use much better. 10W-40, same thing... Now having an oil that doesn't flow well at startup and during warm up can be a problem as well, but few people will need anything close to a 0 weight oil during summer months for good startup protection.

Secondly, the actual new, non deteriorated hot temperature viscosity of different brands or versions of oil vary considerably. The SAE ratings for motor oil (0, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, etc.) are pretty course rating. Other ratings like 'kinematic viscosity, cSt @ 100C' are much finer scales. Some 40 weights could be just a fraction above 30 weights, some 40 weights could be a hair under 50 weight, and that's a pretty big difference. Mobil 1 0W-40 is (used to be?) on the thin side for a 40 weight. Redline 5w-40, on the other hand, is on the heavy side for a 40 weight.

Additive packages are a whole different story...

Sneaky Pete

WooHoo an oil thread...........did I say that already?

extanker

they are always a hoot. i like when they say american mobil 1 eats a hole in your crank case but european mobil one does not.....ninja pleeeezzz

yoda888

Pfbz
Which other 0w-40 or 5w-40 oils are on the heavier side of the 40?

I'm looking to possibly go with the m1 5w-50 on the next change. Figure if it sheers down at the track it will sheer to about a 40 instead. I also know generally, the bigger the spread, the more additives. So I'm trying to find a balance here.

Thanks