tks12

thanks ill look at video now, not saying it is wrong, just figured seeing how I did not install the KN i might as well check to be sure

it does not have the k&n filter it, someone had put the dry AEM filter in it, and yes I did clean it good. (you would think that would get done at the dealer when they change oils or at least they would let you know it needed done!!, so much for having it serviced at the dealership) anyhow... rant over on that...

will be working on it now, replacing all the oil tubes plugs and coils, 2 cracked good enough to see easy, one very questionable, so no big loss on buying the coils, (not saying that was this cars issues) I have to say, it does not look like they were out at the 60k, just too dirty around there, hard to say how many miles on the plugs, I drop a pic up for giggles in a bit.... I thought there was an update on the MAF but the new one has the same partnumber as the one that was in it.....

tks12

found it - never mind

anything special need to be disabled to check engine compression on the 2000 996? and if so how do I disaable it, I do not have a manual for this car

it's all cleaned up with new oil tubes ready to get the new plugs installed and figured why not throw the snap- on gauge to it

thanks
tom

tks12

finished her up last night. have to replace the mounting bracket for the headlight leveler on the rear suspension - get her off the jack stands and test drive her sometime today

I will say it took longer to get her back together than I thought it would working on the ground without pulling the mufflers, did the compression test, conservatively speaking 158-170 - but that was also done cold..... but at least there isn't sign of a "dead" cyl, I did not bother doing a wet test or leakdown on it, with 72k I figure if we keep her it will come out soon enough to do the IMS and stuff (or maybe it will become a turbo<g>)

Happy thanksgiving to everyone and thanks to all for the help on this project..... I will see if the codes return and post an update

onewhippedpuppy

I agree with Jake, seems too general for coils or plugs. The coils do go bad, but the odds of three going bad simultaneously is pretty low. I hope you sorted it but suspect it will be back.

alpine003

Personally I would just replace all 6 coils and be done with it once and for all. It's only a matter of time before other coils will start failing and you'll have to tear into it again.

As for the K&N, you not only have to deal with over oiled filter elements affecting the MAF but that intake design is one of the worst I've seen. MAF sensors needs the straightest airflow with the least amount of turbulence/vortex and this design doesn't help in achieving that. That's why you see grates on some of the OEM MAFs to assist in straighter air flow.

tks12

I did replace all 6, three were cracked one of them you could hardly tell it, I figure at 40 a piece and the long drive to get them I might as well have them all here, I also replaced all the oil tubes plugs and did a compression test on it

the air filter on this one is a dry element from aem, I didnt put this stuff on it, it was on it when I bought the car

tks12

im sure he is right, but not knowing when if they had ever been replaced heck not really knowing if the plugs had ever been replaced (60k was done at a dealership previous to our purchase, I figured why now car has 72k on it, three were cracked still no sign of any arcing though

alpine003

That's only half of it and to further clarify on my post the MAF needs the straightest airflow as possible to get the most accurate airflow meter reading, so your ecu might not be seeing an accurate airflow value thus compensating ign/fuel maps inaccurately.

A recent member actually gained hp back after he removed the K&N...

tks12

working with cars on dyno's before, I understand. Same with exhaust on certain brands of cars and motorcycles,
hey if it's louder it has to have more power <grin>

I wonder just how much that conical filter effects the MAF where it is located, and if it being so far from the throttle plate makes a difference as well, I never was able to test that on a dyno, that was years ago I worked with a dyno, but I would love to see the results first hand

tks12

put a new MAF on it
put new plugs and coiils on it, engine did miss again, no code up right now, not sure if it had something to do with the p1238 or not, but that only came up that one time on that otc scanner,

regardless, car is back together, it needed the plugs anyhow , this is passenger side bank in order

Flat6 Innovations

The K&N filter arrangement positions the MAF in an odd location. We have found that this position is less than optimum for the MAF to sample the air charge, especially at low engine speeds.

That and the open filament air filter (that may have fouled the MAF in the first place) generally make for some problems. Of all the coil packs that we've seen with visible cracks I haven't seen one short to ground, ever. There's a P code for "coil shorted to ground", but we seldom ever see them in any Porsches other than the Cayenne which loses coil packs notoriously.

Maybe you got it.

tks12

nope didn't get it, really didnt think it was going to be coiil either, but I was hoping the MAF would cure it, still had it on the jack stand when it started missing this time, was warming it up to change oil (they put 0-40 in it at dealer last time) 0 weight.... well maybe the last two mornings, that would be fine (20.7 yesterday on my porch 24 today) but it did warm up out there quickly saw 40 HAHAHA
my only choice today is put that OTC I can borrow back on it and see if it shows anything, I would at least like to know which cyl is missing to have a place to start. an oscilloscope would be great that could hook up to this car

Flat6 Innovations

After swapping the MAF you ned to carry out a handover and system adaptation to ensure the new MAF isn't confusing the ECU. If the MAF had an issue and was effecting fuel trim, then you swap it out with another you can create other symptoms.

tks12

I assume even if the new MAF has the exact number on it as old one? 986.606.125.01

and if so, I need the Porsche tool (or equal) to do that?

this thing idled smooth- for a minute or two then started missing, (just like it lost a plug) I have not started it up today
wife is on her way to borrow that OTC and see if that p1238 popped up again (which had never been there before) IF the OTC scanner is reading codes correctly?
thanks again Jake
Tom

alpine003

Did you get a cel light only after the first min or two when it started to run rough? Or was there always a cel light on?

Did you double check your coil connectors to make sure they're all tight?