My 996 Track car project
#61
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hmm, I just ordered a OEM mount... Could you feel any difference between OEM and the wevo?
#62
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
With the premise that this will be a track car. Replacing bearings and grinding valves and seats are a shortcut that will lead to headaches.
The biggest issue is the cylinders. They do not take well to re-ringing, This means new cylinders and pistons, 6- weeks on that.
A true rebuild is in my opinion.
New Cyl, pistons and rings
The rods are junk, New rods
New Valves , Valve springs, Lifters and Lifter Carriers.
New timing chains, guides, and tensioners
Crankshafts are good or bad, Check for cracks and balance or replace.
New bearings,If crank is polished, coat bearings to restore proper clearance. 2-3 weeks, after the crank and carrier are checked.
New oil cooler
New water pump, hoses, thermostat.
Deep sump pan with baffles
There are other things to be done, but that is a short list.
The parts alone for a proper rebuild are in the area of 13-15K and figure 3 months.
There is a reason Jakes engines are 20K. He is right on the money and you will have no worreies following his lead.
The biggest issue is the cylinders. They do not take well to re-ringing, This means new cylinders and pistons, 6- weeks on that.
A true rebuild is in my opinion.
New Cyl, pistons and rings
The rods are junk, New rods
New Valves , Valve springs, Lifters and Lifter Carriers.
New timing chains, guides, and tensioners
Crankshafts are good or bad, Check for cracks and balance or replace.
New bearings,If crank is polished, coat bearings to restore proper clearance. 2-3 weeks, after the crank and carrier are checked.
New oil cooler
New water pump, hoses, thermostat.
Deep sump pan with baffles
There are other things to be done, but that is a short list.
The parts alone for a proper rebuild are in the area of 13-15K and figure 3 months.
There is a reason Jakes engines are 20K. He is right on the money and you will have no worreies following his lead.
Well, there are rebuilds and there are rebuilds. What you're talking about would be great and result in essentially a zero-time engine but spending 20k on that or a crate engine from Porsche for a car that's only worth 20k wasn't an option for me. If I was trying to build a class winning spec racer that may be the way to go but that is not my goal. My options were getting another used engine or doing the more modest rebuild. In the end I decided that getting an engine that has been inspected and reassembled with new bearings, water pump, rings, valve job etc was better than another used engine. I think with the reliability mods that I'm adding that the odds are pretty good that I'll have a reliable engine for what I'm planning to do. I fully understand that it may fail again at some point, but even if I have to rebuild it again (twice) I'll be ahead. So while Raby would deliver a top-notch rebuilt engine spending 20k and waiting 9 months is not the right answer for everybody...
#64
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#65
#66
Rennlist Member
#67
Rennlist Member
Again you may come out ok with a refresh, but I have seen enough issues that I will not recommend this in my shop. What you are having done is not considered a rebuild and should not be presented as such. I have a motor in the shop right now that had the valves refaced, 1000 miles later the head of the valve broke off and broke the piston, not a pretty sight.
#68
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Quick update. My rebuilder started the job of tearing the engine apart. As expected he found metal particles in the oil. He's thinking they are from a rod bearing which will likely require replacement of the crankshaft. Not too surprising based on the info from the previous owner. At least it looks nice and clean now...
Meanwhile I've started installing the GT3 suspension. Rear end is pretty much done. Front will be a bit more work since I'm replacing the lower arms with the split GT3 versions. Still looking for a rear GT3 sway bar, please let me know if you have any leads.
Also, the parts for the third radiator are here. Finishing the suspension install and putting in the radiator will be the goal for labor day weekend. Then it's time to focus on getting the transmission ready before the engine comes back. Pretty much decided on getting the OS Giken LSD.
Meanwhile I've started installing the GT3 suspension. Rear end is pretty much done. Front will be a bit more work since I'm replacing the lower arms with the split GT3 versions. Still looking for a rear GT3 sway bar, please let me know if you have any leads.
Also, the parts for the third radiator are here. Finishing the suspension install and putting in the radiator will be the goal for labor day weekend. Then it's time to focus on getting the transmission ready before the engine comes back. Pretty much decided on getting the OS Giken LSD.
#70
My biggest question now is what to do with the differential. From my searches it seems like the Guard unit is favored but it is expensive and requires modifying the flanges or replacing them with GT3 units. Would appreciate any input here from anybody who has installed these. Any experience with the Quaife unit?
As for the diff-you may want to consider OS Giken. Had it installed a couple of years ago and it has worked flawlessly ever since. I realize that some may consider Guard the standard, but I have nothing but a positive experience with Giken. Thought I'd through them into the mix since it seems you're still at the research stage...
#71
OS Giken is well known to the diff/clutch world and I wouldn't hesitate to use one in the same fashion as Recaro's being well known in the seat industry. Looking forward to updates.
BTW, is it me or does the GT3 control arm shims seem a little outrageous but then again, this is Porsche we're talking about...
BTW, is it me or does the GT3 control arm shims seem a little outrageous but then again, this is Porsche we're talking about...
#72
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Have a 996 track car, built in a similar fashion to what you're contemplating. While I didn't have to deal with a blown engine, I did make many of the same modifications you've described throughout this thread. Thus far my car has been rock solid (knock wood) and I'm sure you'll be as happy with your's as I've been with mine.
As for the diff-you may want to consider OS Giken. Had it installed a couple of years ago and it has worked flawlessly ever since. I realize that some may consider Guard the standard, but I have nothing but a positive experience with Giken. Thought I'd through them into the mix since it seems you're still at the research stage...
As for the diff-you may want to consider OS Giken. Had it installed a couple of years ago and it has worked flawlessly ever since. I realize that some may consider Guard the standard, but I have nothing but a positive experience with Giken. Thought I'd through them into the mix since it seems you're still at the research stage...
Glad to hear about your experience with the OS Giken since I've pretty much decided to get one.
#73
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OS Giken is well known to the diff/clutch world and I wouldn't hesitate to use one in the same fashion as Recaro's being well known in the seat industry. Looking forward to updates.
BTW, is it me or does the GT3 control arm shims seem a little outrageous but then again, this is Porsche we're talking about...
BTW, is it me or does the GT3 control arm shims seem a little outrageous but then again, this is Porsche we're talking about...
http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...9#ITEM_2892261
#74
http://www.renntrack.com/forums/show...rack-Car-Build
I'm happy with the car, VERY happy. My only regret is that I wish it was a 3.6L, but that's minor since I got such a great deal on it when I purchased it. I love the sound of the car, but it's loud. Can't run Sun at RATL or at AMP without baffles, so now I'm looking into a quieter exhaust that still gives the same (or more) power-if anyone can recommend one that would be appreciated.
Perhaps a more sophisticated data system with a bunch of sensors...but just couldn't justify the cost...so not really a regret.
#75
I hope I'm not breaking any rules here, but here's a link to my car's build...has all the mods listed.
http://www.renntrack.com/forums/show...rack-Car-Build
I'm happy with the car, VERY happy. My only regret is that I wish it was a 3.6L, but that's minor since I got such a great deal on it when I purchased it. I love the sound of the car, but it's loud. Can't run Sun at RATL or at AMP without baffles, so now I'm looking into a quieter exhaust that still gives the same (or more) power-if anyone can recommend one that would be appreciated.
Perhaps a more sophisticated data system with a bunch of sensors...but just couldn't justify the cost...so not really a regret.
http://www.renntrack.com/forums/show...rack-Car-Build
I'm happy with the car, VERY happy. My only regret is that I wish it was a 3.6L, but that's minor since I got such a great deal on it when I purchased it. I love the sound of the car, but it's loud. Can't run Sun at RATL or at AMP without baffles, so now I'm looking into a quieter exhaust that still gives the same (or more) power-if anyone can recommend one that would be appreciated.
Perhaps a more sophisticated data system with a bunch of sensors...but just couldn't justify the cost...so not really a regret.