My 996 Track car project
11-24-2013, 11:37 AM
#106
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Vacuuming Cal Speedway
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Alignment and ride height are baseline GT3 with 2.0 degrees negative camber. Aero is also standard GT3 Mark 1. Tires are the ones that came with the car, RE760s, IN good condition but don't know much else about them. Shocks are also GT3 so not much to adjust there. Both sway bars are set one notch from the most inboard. Was going to try a couple of notches softer on the front. Any suggestions?
Honestly it's probably just the tires. It appears your bars are 1-off full stiff at both ends which is where I run mine with slicks. You could soften the front bar 1 notch at a time, stiffen the rear bar to full stiff, or a combination of both just make 1 adjustment at a time. It only takes a few minutes a the track. Also play with tire pressures....
When you buy some better track tires (R compounds) get the biggest front tire front can fit on your rims, 235 or larger and stay 285 or less in the rear to help balance out the understeer.....
11-24-2013, 01:00 PM
#107
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Glad to hear the motor's OK. KrazyK must have hit the kitty litter again last night....
Honestly it's probably just the tires. It appears your bars are 1-off full stiff at both ends which is where I run mine with slicks. You could soften the front bar 1 notch at a time, stiffen the rear bar to full stiff, or a combination of both just make 1 adjustment at a time. It only takes a few minutes a the track. Also play with tire pressures....
When you buy some better track tires (R compounds) get the biggest front tire front can fit on your rims, 235 or larger and stay 285 or less in the rear to help balance out the understeer.....
Honestly it's probably just the tires. It appears your bars are 1-off full stiff at both ends which is where I run mine with slicks. You could soften the front bar 1 notch at a time, stiffen the rear bar to full stiff, or a combination of both just make 1 adjustment at a time. It only takes a few minutes a the track. Also play with tire pressures....
When you buy some better track tires (R compounds) get the biggest front tire front can fit on your rims, 235 or larger and stay 285 or less in the rear to help balance out the understeer.....
12-02-2013, 10:27 PM
#108
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Radar detector essentially in, just need to mount the control panel. Leaning towards attaching it to the batwing in the center console. Ended up swapping locations between the DSP panel and the climate control panel to give me more options for future mods. Washer fluid pump turned out to be a simple fix, the connector next to the battery had come loose. Simply popped it back together and everything works great again.
Decided on the Sabelt Taurus seat and a GMG roll bar. Both arrived today. Will be really nice to have a real seat (and the roll bar of course) for the next track day. Going to use the Crow 5-point harness from my previous car. Now I just need some mounting hardware...
Decided on the Sabelt Taurus seat and a GMG roll bar. Both arrived today. Will be really nice to have a real seat (and the roll bar of course) for the next track day. Going to use the Crow 5-point harness from my previous car. Now I just need some mounting hardware...
Last edited by stjoh; 11-02-2014 at 06:02 PM.
12-02-2013, 10:53 PM
#109
seats are the nicest upgrade, next are the belts, with these your experience will be night and day guarantee 
nice roll bar by the way. I used to love the tequipment but it start rusting a bit ;(
nice roll bar by the way. I used to love the tequipment but it start rusting a bit ;(
12-02-2013, 11:59 PM
#111
What are you talking about?????The engine is running great. I bought the car with a blown engine and had it rebuilt. Recently started driving again after that rebuild.
12-02-2013, 11:59 PM
#112
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
12-14-2013, 08:46 PM
#113
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Got the roll cage installed today. After shaving a bunch of the plastic off the piece under the carpet by the door it went in without too much fuzz. Seat is next...
Last edited by stjoh; 11-02-2014 at 06:00 PM.
12-17-2013, 10:35 PM
#116
Advanced
Very nice build.
Can you explain how hard the underdrive pulley install was?
My 3.4 engine died the same death. Gold colored flakes in the oil filter up until the end.
Can you explain how hard the underdrive pulley install was?
My 3.4 engine died the same death. Gold colored flakes in the oil filter up until the end.
12-18-2013, 09:30 AM
#117
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The under drive pulley wasn't too bad to install. The hardest part was grinding a piece off the engine block that is normally used to hold the pulley in place when tightening it but that would interfere with the smaller under-drive pulley. Wasn't too bad with the engine out of the car but may be a bit of a pain with it installed. Other than that it's a ten minute job.
12-18-2013, 01:05 PM
#119
Advanced
It's still sitting under the workbench. I haven't had time to tear it down and inspect it.
Based on your repairs I'm guessing you bought bearings, rods, a new used crank.
Specificially, did you
1. Did you get a bearing carrier with the crank. Are those a matched set?
2. What kind of bearings did you use? The OEM i think are tri-metal but many other engines are going to Aluminum silicon material. I read somewhere that the gold color in the bearing material came from copper
3. did you replace rods or just the one that was damaged? If you replaced them all did you go with OEM or forged?
4. any other engine upgrades while-you-were-there?
I'll post teardown pics in my 3.2 thread when I get to pulling everything apart.
Based on your repairs I'm guessing you bought bearings, rods, a new used crank.
Specificially, did you
1. Did you get a bearing carrier with the crank. Are those a matched set?
2. What kind of bearings did you use? The OEM i think are tri-metal but many other engines are going to Aluminum silicon material. I read somewhere that the gold color in the bearing material came from copper
3. did you replace rods or just the one that was damaged? If you replaced them all did you go with OEM or forged?
4. any other engine upgrades while-you-were-there?
I'll post teardown pics in my 3.2 thread when I get to pulling everything apart.
12-18-2013, 02:12 PM
#120
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It's still sitting under the workbench. I haven't had time to tear it down and inspect it.
Based on your repairs I'm guessing you bought bearings, rods, a new used crank.
Specificially, did you
1. Did you get a bearing carrier with the crank. Are those a matched set?
2. What kind of bearings did you use? The OEM i think are tri-metal but many other engines are going to Aluminum silicon material. I read somewhere that the gold color in the bearing material came from copper
3. did you replace rods or just the one that was damaged? If you replaced them all did you go with OEM or forged?
4. any other engine upgrades while-you-were-there?
I'll post teardown pics in my 3.2 thread when I get to pulling everything apart.
Based on your repairs I'm guessing you bought bearings, rods, a new used crank.
Specificially, did you
1. Did you get a bearing carrier with the crank. Are those a matched set?
2. What kind of bearings did you use? The OEM i think are tri-metal but many other engines are going to Aluminum silicon material. I read somewhere that the gold color in the bearing material came from copper
3. did you replace rods or just the one that was damaged? If you replaced them all did you go with OEM or forged?
4. any other engine upgrades while-you-were-there?
I'll post teardown pics in my 3.2 thread when I get to pulling everything apart.
No internal upgrades were done so the engine is essentially stock. It didn't make sense to me to spend money on internal changes given my budget and goals for this car...
Looking forward to seeing your rebuild posts.