Changing Spark Plugs - need help
#1
Changing Spark Plugs - needed help, got help
Edit: Confirmed. This is a drain tube from the coolant tank.
I just changed the plugs and tubes and was buttoning things up when I found this tube/hose hanging down on the Driver (left) side near the rear-most coil.
The car is a 2000 C2 Cab. Is this a drain tube or a vacuum hose, or something else. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
See photo.
I just changed the plugs and tubes and was buttoning things up when I found this tube/hose hanging down on the Driver (left) side near the rear-most coil.
The car is a 2000 C2 Cab. Is this a drain tube or a vacuum hose, or something else. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
See photo.
Last edited by wyovino; 07-13-2013 at 10:56 AM.
#3
Thanks. I screwed something up - have a flashing CEL now. I don't have a code reader, so I guess I'll have to take it to the indy. This job kicked the crap out of me. Between the heat and being 60 years old, and having vertigo it took me 10 hours to do. And the kicker is it didn't need to be done. I got the car with 37k miles on the clock. For MY2000, the recommended change is at 45K. The plugs I removed were Bosch, not Beru, so they must have been done already.
#4
Thanks. I screwed something up - have a flashing CEL now. I don't have a code reader, so I guess I'll have to take it to the indy. This job kicked the crap out of me. Between the heat and being 60 years old, and having vertigo it took me 10 hours to do. And the kicker is it didn't need to be done. I got the car with 37k miles on the clock. For MY2000, the recommended change is at 45K. The plugs I removed were Bosch, not Beru, so they must have been done already.
#5
Bill, relax and what Ahsai said. Did you use the special boot grease? It helps get them seated. Did you remove the mufflers? Makes the job much easier. Did you do one plug/coil at a time? You will get it. No hurry.
Last edited by KrazyK; 07-09-2013 at 10:14 AM.
#6
I removed the wheels and mufflers and used lithium dielectric grease. I may go out and get a code reader to see if it narrows it down to one side. Just putting the car on jack stands, and removing the wheels and mufflers is a lot for an old guy to do in this heat. All of the tubes were seated and I'm pretty sure all of the coils clicked in. I'm hoping it's the case the one of the cables isn't seated.
The engine seemed a bit rougher, but not horrible. Would an unseated coil cable throw a blinking CEL?
The engine seemed a bit rougher, but not horrible. Would an unseated coil cable throw a blinking CEL?
Last edited by wyovino; 07-08-2013 at 11:41 PM.
#7
Kudos to you and I can imagine. I hope I have your energy level when I'm sixty. A code reader will help. Sounds like one of the coils is not firing so the heavy misfire makes the CEL flash. There's really not much you can mess up as long as everything is seated properly and you use the right spark plugs and the coils are in good shape. You tightened up all the coils, right? The bolts on the coils provide ground to the coils so they need good and tight contacts as well.
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#8
I torqued the coils to 7.5 ft/lbs and the plugs to 22 ft/lbs. There were two bolts (not on the same coil) that I couldn't reach with the torque wrench so I tightened them using an Allen wrench. I'm going to pick up a code reader tomorrow and will post the codes.
#9
Does anything come out of that hose when the engine is running, or, conversely, does it feel like it has vacuum? I looked and I don't see anything like that just hanging down so my thought is it must connect to something somewhere up above. Just my two cents but the coil pack connector you show in your picture doesn't look fully seated which might be the source of your CEL. Congrats on your job and hard work. I would check the code(s) and head straight to the coil packs and double/triple check all the connectors..they are damn hard to get clicked into place. Always go back to the last thing you did...more than likely the source of your problem.
#10
I had trouble getting the first coil wire seated, then I started sliding the rubber hood back so be sure that the lock engaged. That tube was behind the metal cover, so wasn't visible until I removed it. I'm heading out to AutoZone to pick up an OBD II reader.
#12
#14
Success!!! The connection on #6 coil wasn't clicked-in. (You're not boomphin' right, Norton). I would have been done sooner but chalk it up to not reading the instructions that came with the code reader. I thought I erased the code but it kept coming back, so I spent an extra hour or so fixing something that was already fixed. I swapped the coil packs 5 and 6, figuring I might have a bad coil. When it came back up with #6 misfire again I broke down and read the instructions. Oops. Thanks for all of the help everyone. Time for a cold one.