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Coolant flashing+lines full of air

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Old 05-14-2013, 09:21 AM
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bullet031
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Default Coolant flashing+lines full of air

I bought my first Porsche august 2012, its a 1999 Carrera c2, it now has 103,000km on it. I came out last week to find a puddle of coolant underneath the car, so I took it to the shop and got the coolant tank replaced and put in new coolant (btw old coolant was **** yellow with tinge of green). They used the method where your revving car at 4k while adding coolant ect.


No success.. the coolant system is packed with air, I was told to try and drive it a bit to push the air out of the lines. (btw my bleeder valve comes up by itself within 5minutes of driving, if u slowly release cap there is tons of air and bleeder valve drops) - also within 10-15minutes of driving or so when the air really compresses a lot my engine will start to flutter its rpm's while idling, if I go release the air it will idle smooth til the pressure builds up again

- next day they tried again, service manual stated to elevate the rear of the car while putting in new coolant...+ doing the 4k revving, this also didn't work, I was told to try and drive it out again and have been releasing the air out of the cap few times a day, still nothing

coolant light is still flashing, still packed with air, and engines still fluttering its rpms when the pressure builds up

any suggestions?
Old 05-14-2013, 10:10 AM
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Ubermensch
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1) Buy this:
UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller : Amazon.com : Automotive UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller : Amazon.com : Automotive

2) Enjoy life with no air in your coolant system.

-Shawn
Old 05-14-2013, 10:47 AM
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LostSouth
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Originally Posted by Ubermensch
1) Buy this: UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller : Amazon.com : Automotive

2) Enjoy life with no air in your coolant system.

-Shawn
I couldn't make it work without one of these. Worked with a tech at the local "jiffy lube" for more than an hour. Bought one of these the next day and was done within minutes.
Old 05-14-2013, 11:08 AM
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Dan@SCB
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you need to find a shop that knows what they are doing...

i guess this is just like your Clutch Issue
Old 05-14-2013, 12:59 PM
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bullet031
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Originally Posted by Zook@SCB
you need to find a shop that knows what they are doing...

i guess this is just like your Clutch Issue

any suggestions on a good shop that doesn't charge ridiculous prices? I live in mississauga
Old 05-14-2013, 01:10 PM
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fpb111
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You are going to destroy that engine doing what you are doing. The 3.4 engine is notorious for creating hot spots that crack the heads. Buy the UView and do it right. At least snap the bail up and leave it up until you get most of the air out.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:17 PM
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bullet031
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Originally Posted by fpb111
You are going to destroy that engine doing what you are doing. The 3.4 engine is notorious for creating hot spots that crack the heads. Buy the UView and do it right. At least snap the bail up and leave it up until you get most of the air out.
iv been closely watching the temperature making sure it doesn't overheat, and it hasn't which is just further confusing since it should overheat with air in the system from what I was told?
Old 05-14-2013, 02:11 PM
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Ahsai
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Originally Posted by bullet031
iv been closely watching the temperature making sure it doesn't overheat, and it hasn't which is just further confusing since it should overheat with air in the system from what I was told?
Just listen to Frank. We're trying to help you and not to scare you.

The temp sensor only measures the coolant temp at one spot (after the radiator) in teh whole system. You could have localized overheat developed inside the engine block where the air pockets are and the temp sensor is never gonna read those...
Old 05-14-2013, 02:33 PM
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fpb111
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Originally Posted by bullet031
iv been closely watching the temperature making sure it doesn't overheat, and it hasn't which is just further confusing since it should overheat with air in the system from what I was told?
Why do you think the engine "flutters" at idle after 10-15 minutes of running with the cooling system air locked? It's not because the air is really compressed. How much coolant are you able to add when you "release" the air each time?


It's the pre 99s that are air-cooled.

These newer ones need coolant.
Old 05-14-2013, 03:02 PM
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bullet031
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I dropped by "hunter Porsche" shop to get his opinion an hour ago, He told me if its not over-heating than there is no air in the system and that it didn't matter if no vacuum tool was used it still works the same, but then he took off the cap and revved it and when releasing the gas pedal coolant started pouring out which he said isn't supposed to happen. he topped it off and it eventually stopped and he said it was fine and to try it (lights still flashing), I asked about the "fluttering" and he replied that he did not know the problem.

im not saying anyone's wrong here im just trying to figure out whats going on, 2 shops and both are confused
Old 05-14-2013, 03:06 PM
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Dan@SCB
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Thermostat might be on its way out
Old 05-14-2013, 03:19 PM
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Ahsai
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Coolant light is flashing and the shop still says it's fine. I think you should run from the shop....I think you should just start over by draining the coolant from the engine block, put the vacuum tool on, and refill.
Old 05-14-2013, 03:27 PM
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bullet031
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
Coolant light is flashing and the shop still says it's fine. I think you should run from the shop....I think you should just start over by draining the coolant from the engine block, put the vacuum tool on, and refill.
sounds like a good start. ill have the thermostat looked at to

thanks for all the replies guys
Old 05-14-2013, 03:35 PM
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Cosmo Kramer
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I worked on an Oldsmobile 3.5 DOHC V6 that I thought for sure had air, gurgling in the heater core and all sorts of weird stuff. New thermostat fixed it.
Old 05-14-2013, 06:16 PM
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KrazyK
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I came out last week to find a puddle of coolant underneath the car, so I took it to the shop and got the coolant tank replaced and put in new coolant (btw old coolant was **** yellow with tinge of green). They used the method where your revving car at 4k while adding coolant ect.
Did you at least check it before you drove it there? I mean cmon its leaking coolant and you think "I'll just drive it to shop". What??????

Other than the leak, were there any other issues before first shop did the "repair" work? If you believe the original shop to be competent, sounds like you should have went back to them FIRST. All parties involved sound clueless.

I still dont get why someone with no mechanical capability buys a 10+ year old high end sports car. I would educate myself about the 996 so you could at least ask relevant questions while speaking with a "real" Porsche technician if you can even find one.


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