Oil / coolant mix on 2000 996
#17
Intermediate
#18
Instructor
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well trust me when I say this there is realy no easy fix for the intermix issue. I went through this with my 2000 996 and my biggest mistake was not getting it rebuilt from the beginning.
I had several shops tell me if you had water in the block you might as well just rebuild it but i was destin to find a cheaper solution and i ended up paying for tests, oil heat exchangers, multiple oil changes and flushes and then I was told that I had a porous block so the engine was non rebuildable and all it ended up being was a cracked head. They was a compression test, leack down and it did not show up how ever when running it would intermix oil into the coolant and coolant into the oil.
IF, and i say IF you caught the intermix early (how can you know for sure unless you check the oil and coolant evry couple of days) well you can just flush it out repait the head and keep on going. But I did n't want to pull and engine, fix a head, reinstall and then later find out that my bearings give out because they were ran to long with water in the case.
a basic rebuild will be about 7500-9500 if you only have a shop drop engine pull the heads and have the head fixed you may only be looking at 2500-3500
I ended up going from just doing a basic rebuild in the fall of last year, to lets do a big bore/stroker with high compression ratio to now doing a turbo charged big bore stroker with low compression ratio on e-85 fuel LOL
I had several shops tell me if you had water in the block you might as well just rebuild it but i was destin to find a cheaper solution and i ended up paying for tests, oil heat exchangers, multiple oil changes and flushes and then I was told that I had a porous block so the engine was non rebuildable and all it ended up being was a cracked head. They was a compression test, leack down and it did not show up how ever when running it would intermix oil into the coolant and coolant into the oil.
IF, and i say IF you caught the intermix early (how can you know for sure unless you check the oil and coolant evry couple of days) well you can just flush it out repait the head and keep on going. But I did n't want to pull and engine, fix a head, reinstall and then later find out that my bearings give out because they were ran to long with water in the case.
a basic rebuild will be about 7500-9500 if you only have a shop drop engine pull the heads and have the head fixed you may only be looking at 2500-3500
I ended up going from just doing a basic rebuild in the fall of last year, to lets do a big bore/stroker with high compression ratio to now doing a turbo charged big bore stroker with low compression ratio on e-85 fuel LOL
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#20
Drifting
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OK I will jump in now having suffered and fixed an intermix. Talking with Flat 6 is not a bad idea and I have great respect for Jake Raby. The challenge is that the best option if cost is not an issue will be a Flat 6 engine, there probably are no better engines out there. However they start at over $18,000 and quickly go up from there, plus you have to transport the car there and back. So we are talking about spending $20,000+++ to put an engine is a car that is worth about $20,000 and won't be worth that much more when the work is done. For many people that just does not make sense.
I think jake is also fixing cracked heads now, but it is still expensive with the shipping, etc., and probably not his recommended approach.
Probably the first thing to do is to determine what the source of the intermix is. You can check the oil cooler, they can crack and I certainly checked mine, but it is almost never the source of the problem.
As for the AOS, I guess it could cause a intermix, but I have never heard of this being the source of this kind of a problem.
It could be a D chunk and you might see this with a boroscope, or by taking the head(s) off but I think the most common source of this problem is a cracked head. If you check the threads on my repair you will see lots of information and pictures. It is probably a crack at the inner exhaust valve spring seat on cylinder #1 or # 6, mostly likely #1. If you remove the engine and the cam cover, cams and lifter body you can usually see the crack, start with the 1-3 head.
These cracks can usually be fixed. I spent $500 including a valve job on that head, but that was a few years ago so the price is probably higher now. I also have a new in the box 1-3 head that I will sell for $1,600, at the dealer they are over $3,000.
It took me about 40 hours or so to do the work, and this was in my garage with no prior experience on the M96 engine. If I had to do it again I would guess about $15-20 hours. You need some special tools, either make them or buy a set. I can also rent you the tools you need. I spent another $800+ on parts directly related to the crack, and more to replace other things while I was in there (coils, plugs, tubes, AOS,etc.).
Now some question whether an engine with intermix can be saved or is worth saving due to damage to bearings etc. I will tell you that my intermix was really bad. The coolant was the consistency of pudding, and the oil was like a milkshake, and I don't know how long it was like this. I discovered the problem when the coolant light started flashing. And when this happened in 1998 the dealer,my Indy and Jake all told me had no choice but to put in a new engine. At that time Jake said that cracked heads could not be fixed, but now we all know that in many cases they can be. I am sure that the bearings, rings, etc. on my car are not as good as they would be if I had never had the intermix. But I have good oil pressure and compression and spent my time and about $1,500 and now have almost 23,000 on the car since the fix, it runs strong ad I am happy. If it had required a new engine the car would be in a junk yard now. I could not have afforded a new engine and would have questioned spending what the car was worth on an engine.
I have now worked with many others on fixing their cars with intermix problems and it is being done on a regular basis.
If you want more I formation, etc., let me know, I would be glad to help if I can.
I think jake is also fixing cracked heads now, but it is still expensive with the shipping, etc., and probably not his recommended approach.
Probably the first thing to do is to determine what the source of the intermix is. You can check the oil cooler, they can crack and I certainly checked mine, but it is almost never the source of the problem.
As for the AOS, I guess it could cause a intermix, but I have never heard of this being the source of this kind of a problem.
It could be a D chunk and you might see this with a boroscope, or by taking the head(s) off but I think the most common source of this problem is a cracked head. If you check the threads on my repair you will see lots of information and pictures. It is probably a crack at the inner exhaust valve spring seat on cylinder #1 or # 6, mostly likely #1. If you remove the engine and the cam cover, cams and lifter body you can usually see the crack, start with the 1-3 head.
These cracks can usually be fixed. I spent $500 including a valve job on that head, but that was a few years ago so the price is probably higher now. I also have a new in the box 1-3 head that I will sell for $1,600, at the dealer they are over $3,000.
It took me about 40 hours or so to do the work, and this was in my garage with no prior experience on the M96 engine. If I had to do it again I would guess about $15-20 hours. You need some special tools, either make them or buy a set. I can also rent you the tools you need. I spent another $800+ on parts directly related to the crack, and more to replace other things while I was in there (coils, plugs, tubes, AOS,etc.).
Now some question whether an engine with intermix can be saved or is worth saving due to damage to bearings etc. I will tell you that my intermix was really bad. The coolant was the consistency of pudding, and the oil was like a milkshake, and I don't know how long it was like this. I discovered the problem when the coolant light started flashing. And when this happened in 1998 the dealer,my Indy and Jake all told me had no choice but to put in a new engine. At that time Jake said that cracked heads could not be fixed, but now we all know that in many cases they can be. I am sure that the bearings, rings, etc. on my car are not as good as they would be if I had never had the intermix. But I have good oil pressure and compression and spent my time and about $1,500 and now have almost 23,000 on the car since the fix, it runs strong ad I am happy. If it had required a new engine the car would be in a junk yard now. I could not have afforded a new engine and would have questioned spending what the car was worth on an engine.
I have now worked with many others on fixing their cars with intermix problems and it is being done on a regular basis.
If you want more I formation, etc., let me know, I would be glad to help if I can.
#21
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This was my summer last year, oil/coolant mix, stress, decisions. My shop, MRAZ outside of Milwaukee found a split membrane in the AOS. Also found the dreaded D-chunk. So, after doing a lot of thinking about next steps, I finally decided to rebuild the engine. The choices were as previously listed numerous times by others. The engine had just crossed 80k on the odo so I was already researching and planning a rebuild. I had made myself familiar with L&N, Raby and all of the discussions. The car was solid, and I owned it. MY 2000 996.
I decided to go ahead with the rebuild. For a similar investment to replacing the car, you can now have some fun with the engine. L&N bored the case, now my 3.4 was a 3.6 with new L&N cylinder sleeves and pistons. With the case and guts apart, all new can go in as appropriate. Work with your engine builder on the appropriate replacement parts list and mix for desired results. Get a port and polish while disassembled. If you have an experienced engine builder that you can visit and share the journey with, well, that's an added bonus part of the experience. When it is all done, you have that journey and added understanding of your baby as well.
In the end, no stock Porsche engine, as good as they are, will run like a well thought out rebuild. I bit the bullet, endured some pained looks from my better half, but now, wow! Glad I did. Option was another used Porsche ultimately heading towards a similar fate. Instead, I now have a whole new beast.
Good luck! And look on the bright side, the fun is just beginning.
I decided to go ahead with the rebuild. For a similar investment to replacing the car, you can now have some fun with the engine. L&N bored the case, now my 3.4 was a 3.6 with new L&N cylinder sleeves and pistons. With the case and guts apart, all new can go in as appropriate. Work with your engine builder on the appropriate replacement parts list and mix for desired results. Get a port and polish while disassembled. If you have an experienced engine builder that you can visit and share the journey with, well, that's an added bonus part of the experience. When it is all done, you have that journey and added understanding of your baby as well.
In the end, no stock Porsche engine, as good as they are, will run like a well thought out rebuild. I bit the bullet, endured some pained looks from my better half, but now, wow! Glad I did. Option was another used Porsche ultimately heading towards a similar fate. Instead, I now have a whole new beast.
Good luck! And look on the bright side, the fun is just beginning.
#22
Former Vendor
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The car is a 2000. If it were here it would join the 7 other 2000& 2001 intermix cars we currently have in work. All of these had cracked heads.
We see this happen all the time with these year models. Of the 7 we have here now we have repaired 6 of them as collateral damage was minimal and the engine was healthy otherwise. One of them was driven to death.
You are what we consider "local", so give us a ring. This is a best case scenario failure in terms of expense. With cars here from 23 states, receiving one from a neighboring state is a breath of fresh air and very simple.
We see this happen all the time with these year models. Of the 7 we have here now we have repaired 6 of them as collateral damage was minimal and the engine was healthy otherwise. One of them was driven to death.
You are what we consider "local", so give us a ring. This is a best case scenario failure in terms of expense. With cars here from 23 states, receiving one from a neighboring state is a breath of fresh air and very simple.
#23
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Intermix Guardian?
Was this a manufacturing defect, such as a bad mold?
Was this a manufacturing defect, such as a bad mold?
#24
Former Vendor
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The 00/01 heads have small capillaries that collect debris. This leads to localized hot spots and resultant cracks between the coolant and oil passages within the heads.
We know what aggregates the issues.
Since 2011 these failures have made for more failure jobs than failed IMS bearings here. It's so predictable that we can pinpoint where the crack will be even prior to tear down in most cases.
We know what aggregates the issues.
Since 2011 these failures have made for more failure jobs than failed IMS bearings here. It's so predictable that we can pinpoint where the crack will be even prior to tear down in most cases.
#25
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Is there any preventative measure that can be done?
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Shane911996 (08-13-2022)
#26
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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Thanks,
TomF
#27
Former Vendor
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A manometer test can be used to check the integrity of the AOS.
Of all the cars we have seen with intermix only one was an AOS and only one more was the heat exchanger.
All the rest have been cracked heads and slipped sleeves/ cracked cylinders.
If a car is a 2000 or 2001 I don't even check the AOS or heat exchanger anymore, we just pull the heads. In every instance this far that's been the proper course of action. The 2000/01 ailment is cracked heads.
Of all the cars we have seen with intermix only one was an AOS and only one more was the heat exchanger.
All the rest have been cracked heads and slipped sleeves/ cracked cylinders.
If a car is a 2000 or 2001 I don't even check the AOS or heat exchanger anymore, we just pull the heads. In every instance this far that's been the proper course of action. The 2000/01 ailment is cracked heads.
#28
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If the winter issue is the reason for the coolant circuit, then, IMO, it is another example of engineers chasing a problem versus stepping back and taking a fresh look. (no disrespect meant to any and all engineers on the forum, you make the world work..... and Porsche's
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So, I believe a standard AOS failure (it was 12 years old after all!) I can't offer a repair schedule for AOS, but being this is a 996 forum, if it hasn't been replaced, it is probably time to do so. The membrane is a fabric that moves and is subject to repeated heating cycles, not to mention the chemicals in the fluids. It will not last forever. It is fairly accessible.
Just my observation and opinions.
#29
Drifting
#30
Former Vendor
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And rubberized coating thats used on OEM head gaskets. At the areas where the head gaskets hang over the passages between the heads and crankcase enough material can shed to allow for partially obstructed coolant capillaries.
We have actually removed this material from deep within the heads during milling operations associated with crack repairs. Its easy to tell exactly what it is and exactly where it comes from.
You won't read this anywhere else, because no one else has discovered it; because most don't pay attention; and are not exposed to enough of these situations to put the pieces of the puzzle together.
I have never stated it online before. This is a circumstance that cannot be avoided through preventive procedures, parts swaps or procedures.
We have actually removed this material from deep within the heads during milling operations associated with crack repairs. Its easy to tell exactly what it is and exactly where it comes from.
You won't read this anywhere else, because no one else has discovered it; because most don't pay attention; and are not exposed to enough of these situations to put the pieces of the puzzle together.
I have never stated it online before. This is a circumstance that cannot be avoided through preventive procedures, parts swaps or procedures.