bearing size for 996.102.120.55 deflection roller
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
DIY: Replace Deflection Bearings in OEM Pulleys
UPDATE (March 29, 2013): Skip to post #19 for DIY.
Anybody have the bearing size for a deflection roller (996.102.120.55)? OEM bearing is German made by "***". Has anyone pressed a new bearing into the pulley assembly, instead of purchasing the newer, complete assembly 997.102.119.00 (for $100+)?
Updated Photos: March 21, 2012
Anybody have the bearing size for a deflection roller (996.102.120.55)? OEM bearing is German made by "***". Has anyone pressed a new bearing into the pulley assembly, instead of purchasing the newer, complete assembly 997.102.119.00 (for $100+)?
Updated Photos: March 21, 2012
Last edited by Doug996InKC; 03-29-2013 at 05:46 PM. Reason: Changed title to reflect
#2
Race Director
No, but a VERY careful Google search found some distributors for F.A.G. bearings:
daltonbearing.com
I'm guessing your photo plus that distributor will net you a replacement.
daltonbearing.com
I'm guessing your photo plus that distributor will net you a replacement.
#3
Former Vendor
Not sure of the bearing size but we do offer the whole assembly for a bit cheaper then a 100. For more information on the 997.102.119.00 Click Here.
#4
Drifting
brush the dust off the outer race and read the number. Most likely something like a 6203 for $3-$10 for the bearing unless it's proprietary then you can't buy it. I recently replaced bearings in a non-serviceable electric motor, saved bank.
#5
For less than $100 I would consider the ECS part for peace of mind and less trouble. If it were a $500 part I would replace the bearing for sure. For only $82 not worth your time IMO.
If you decide to replace the bearing its probably in the $8 to $10 range. The sizes and types are explained on may bearing makers websites. You need the numbers and info stamped on the race. I cant see them on the pic.
Maybe spend the $82 and be done with it?
If you decide to replace the bearing its probably in the $8 to $10 range. The sizes and types are explained on may bearing makers websites. You need the numbers and info stamped on the race. I cant see them on the pic.
Maybe spend the $82 and be done with it?
#6
Angular ball bearing SKF 3202 A-2RS1TN9/MT33 15 x 35 x 15.90 mm
http://medias.ina.de/medias/en!hp.ec...3202-BD-2Z-TVH
http://medias.ina.de/medias/en!hp.ec...3202-BD-2Z-TVH
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes, that's a good price from ECS (thanks ECS!), and I'm evaluating options. Thing is, I just dropped $7k + on VF Supercharger, replacement coolant hoses, brake rotors, pads, thermostat, water pump, etc., etc., etc..., so attempting to save where I can at this point.
Thanks for the info baskin. I sent an inquiry to Medias to confirm it is the proper bearing. That link sparked some additional thoughts on this subject -- it's not only the size of the bearing that is important, but also the specifications such as load rating, fatigue rating, etc. I'll report back when I have something further. Cheers guys!
Thanks for the info baskin. I sent an inquiry to Medias to confirm it is the proper bearing. That link sparked some additional thoughts on this subject -- it's not only the size of the bearing that is important, but also the specifications such as load rating, fatigue rating, etc. I'll report back when I have something further. Cheers guys!
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#8
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
You are thinking this. Just get a replacement bearing based on the race number and be done with it. There is nothing special about this bearing.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Cleaned up the race and photographed the bearing in macro mode. See updated photos in post #1. Will have the bearing pressed out of the pulley housing to take measurements.
Last edited by Doug996InKC; 03-22-2013 at 01:41 AM.
#11
Racer
Doug996....
A couple of years ago, I pressed out all 3 deflection & idler roller bearings and re-installed new Japanese NSK bearings (supplied by my local bearing supplier) into the rollers. Twelve months / 4,000 miles later when I was completing my annual inspection, I removed the serpantine belt to check the 3 x rollers. Two bearings were already gritty and required replacement, so I bought the complete roller assemblies from Porsche.
You may save a few $$ by just renewing the bearings, but if I were to do the work again, I would use the new complete roller assemblies every time. The last thing I need is an idler bearing to collapse and rip the serpantine belt to bits.....
A couple of years ago, I pressed out all 3 deflection & idler roller bearings and re-installed new Japanese NSK bearings (supplied by my local bearing supplier) into the rollers. Twelve months / 4,000 miles later when I was completing my annual inspection, I removed the serpantine belt to check the 3 x rollers. Two bearings were already gritty and required replacement, so I bought the complete roller assemblies from Porsche.
You may save a few $$ by just renewing the bearings, but if I were to do the work again, I would use the new complete roller assemblies every time. The last thing I need is an idler bearing to collapse and rip the serpantine belt to bits.....
#12
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Doug996....
A couple of years ago, I pressed out all 3 deflection & idler roller bearings and re-installed new Japanese NSK bearings (supplied by my local bearing supplier) into the rollers. Twelve months / 4,000 miles later when I was completing my annual inspection, I removed the serpantine belt to check the 3 x rollers. Two bearings were already gritty and required replacement, so I bought the complete roller assemblies from Porsche.
You may save a few $$ by just renewing the bearings, but if I were to do the work again, I would use the new complete roller assemblies every time. The last thing I need is an idler bearing to collapse and rip the serpantine belt to bits.....
A couple of years ago, I pressed out all 3 deflection & idler roller bearings and re-installed new Japanese NSK bearings (supplied by my local bearing supplier) into the rollers. Twelve months / 4,000 miles later when I was completing my annual inspection, I removed the serpantine belt to check the 3 x rollers. Two bearings were already gritty and required replacement, so I bought the complete roller assemblies from Porsche.
You may save a few $$ by just renewing the bearings, but if I were to do the work again, I would use the new complete roller assemblies every time. The last thing I need is an idler bearing to collapse and rip the serpantine belt to bits.....
#15
Drifting
When I did my alternator a few months ago I replaced all three of the pulleys, the two deflection pulleys and the tensioner pulleys. The replacement/updated pulley are nylon and weigh much less. So if you are into weight savings, probably a couple of pounds
All three of many were sounding bad after 13 years and 70,000+ miles. I got all three for less than $240. Helps if you daughters boyfriend is a Porsche Tech
All three of many were sounding bad after 13 years and 70,000+ miles. I got all three for less than $240. Helps if you daughters boyfriend is a Porsche Tech