WalterRohrl

Sorry, I gave you bad info. Not Pelican, I meant AutoAtlanta, a fellow Rennlister last week gave me this link.
http://www.autoatlanta.com/results.p...605%20104%2000

The link gives you FOUR choices. Of the two Bosch versions the part number is the same, I can't see why the difference is besides a bit of money. Have not called them yet to inquire but this is the part.

Gator996

Unless you have emmissions testing in your state, is the SAI even necessary to replace? Fortunately the State of Florida doesn't care how much we pollute our air. As long as the Manatees are protected we are good to go.

Byprodriver

& pay your property taxes!

KrazyK

You can easily rebuild the SAI too.

Macster

The exceptional quietness of the engine after the oil change -- especially if the oil had 6 to 7K miles -- is normal. The old oil was almost certainly diluted with water/unburned gasoline and thus thinner and the engine naturally noisier. I've heard a marked decrease in general engine clatter after changing oil after just 5K miles.

The stumble at cold startup could arise from various things. The only time I've experienced any kind of stumble/hesitation with my cars is my Boxster and this behavior was due to a bad AOS. This was an early warning sign of a bad AOS.

The high pitched whine is as others already covered very likely the secondary air injection pump.

Now the metallic screeching sound is a bit troubling. My first thought is a slipping serpentine belt. How fresh is the belt? What's its condition? Might be worth while having the belt removed and seeing if the noise is present upon a cold start. If it is not then you are pretty sure the noise comes from the accessory drive area.

If so then a check for any play at the accessory drives is called for. A water pump would be my choice for the #1 suspect but you may find an idler roller bearing dragging, a tensioner roller dragging, even the tensioner down on tension. And other accessory drives can fail too though less rarely (thank goodness) than the water pump.

While you are there check the power steering fluid level. If this is low... well, we'll talk.

If the noise is present with the belt removed suspicion has to turn to the already noisy secondary air injection pump.

Or it could be a noise generated by a bad AOS.

Or an air leak at say the oil filler tube cap.

b8_rdc

P1325 is related to either the Variocam Plus solenoid or the vane assembly. It is very possible that the flakes blocked that solenoid action in the past. Do you have a method to log your actual cam angles?

dcdrechsel

At the oil change before this one -did the Tech check the filter for debris ?If yes and it was ok one conclusion would be that something is begining to fail .Based on other posts cams/lifters are a candidate .Pulling transmission and checking the IMS bearing is probably a second or third step .

b8_rdc

I've read posts in the 996TT forum that the lifters can start to disassemble and carve a groove into the holes they ride in. Not sure if 996 can have the same issue, but could cause the P1325.

Edit: Link http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...ml#post2829136

perryinva

My $0.02, if you didn't have the pan dropped and cleaned when the LNE bearing was installed then do it now. Why take any further chance that more metal gets picked up? Also, I'd install the LNE Spin on adapter and a magnetic drain plug. Then after 1 or 2k miles pull off the filter, and check it, though obviously with a metal cannister, that is a lot more work, but still do-able. The spin on adapter allows there to be 100% oil filtration unless clogged, then the bypass opens, whereas the stock filter has a continuous bypass, so those metal bits can go round and round still they get stuck someplace. Those upgrades, while not really cheap, are not really expensive either, and have an easy resale with decent cost recovery, at a later date if you need to, so it's not wasted at all.

I got my '02 C2 at 38k miles in '08, and those were among the first things I did. I checked the first 3 filters, and no debris of any kind, plus the magnetic drain plug never showed anything but a super fine film. When I installed the IMSG, I dropped the pan, and it was spotless inside. Turns out the pan was cracked, but that's another story. Nice to have that peace of mind, for me.

DreamCarrera

Also, I recall reading on RL awhile back that someone corrected this problem by cleaning out the air pump with compressed air. He disconnected the hoses and used an air compressor to clean out the pump and hoses and supposedly this did the trick. You may want to give this a try.

Ubermensch

Please elaborate. Have you done this? I've seen others referencing cleaning the SAI but never a rebuild. I've taken my original one apart and cleaned it a few times, but I think I'd need to replace the bearings to really solve the problem. I'd be interested in seeing a reference for someone that's done it.

Shawn

Quix

Update: mechanic had it running and thought he heard some noise that indicated a cam issue. They are pulling off cam covers starting with bank 2 today.

philooo

I am curious to see the result of the dismantling. Keep me posted.

Phil

Flat6 Innovations

Here is a good comparative that includes pics.

Read the description for the album to see how we "super sleuthed" this one to save this guy a ton of money.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...4914693&type=1

Here is a sample.. This wear had NO SYMPTOM at all.

philooo

I am glad I have an extended warranty to sleep at night LOL
I had sent my oil for analysis to blackpoint or whatever their name was but I never got the report back..
May be I'll try to to it again.