Sneaky Pete

You need the jackstands...it just gives you more room. It really is a breeze to change these out. But take your time. Have fun

alpine003

This has been debated many times in the past and a can of worms I don't want to open. I was comfortable just using a longer piece of 2x4 to put on the oil pan as I wasn't really jacking anything but merely just supporting it for a short time. You should do what makes you comfortable.

Edit: yes they are reachable without putting on jack stands. Just need to maneuver a longer socket extension between some things.

AndyK

I may roll the car onto some 2x4's at the end of my garage entrance - that works for oil changes. Gives me a little extra room without having to jack up the car.

alpine003

IMHO, you don't even really need to do that. There is more than ample room to get to the bottom bolts, unless you are 6'9" and have long arms and/or your slammed to GT3-RS specs. But it certainly can't hurt if you feel more comfortable that way.

AndyK

Awesome! Saves me plenty of time to not jack up the car! Ill give it a go this weekend.

alpine003

Good luck and report back.

perryinva

Yes, I agree with Pete, it is easier to SEE what you have to do, if the back is up a bit. Even backing up on to the 2x4s is helpful. I would support the engine at that block that everyone uses to jack it, rather than the oil pan, but I'm **** about that stuff, since I had a cracked oil pan from the PO. Just use the jack to lift the engine like 1/4", thats all. One big 18mm socketed nut (63ft-lb torque) under the car, and 2 -13mm socketed bolts on the engine compartment side (25ft-lb???, better check, not as critical, tho) and the mount just lifts right out. I needed a universal and extensions to easily do the top bolts. Just a 6" extension for the bottom ones makes it easier. Do one at a time, and engine can't shift. Fast and easy, like they said.

AndyK

I'll try and take some shots comparing the old mounts with the new ones. I'm hoping the old ones are shot!

alpine003

Most likely the only thing you'll notice visually is that one of the mounts will probably look a bit squished compared to the new ones. This seems to be pretty common.

Either way your car should ride better if your old ones were worn out.

D6lc

Andy, could you measure the new mount height vs your old ones please, as they seem to sag with age.

I plan on doing the DIY semi solid mounts and have purchased off fleabay some old mounts, but I want to make sure I set the height of the mount correctly before I pour in the PU.

Thanks

AndyK

So, you need the NEW mount height, if you are setting the height, right?

D6lc

Yes please

AndyK

Job done! Anyone who has NOT done their mounts should! My car only has 25k miles, but after 12 years, my mounts were tired to say the least. I didn't know what to measure Ross, so I took a shot next to the tape measure.





I took the car out after installing the new mounts:

1) Way smoother motor, less vibration, feels like a different car!
2) Better shifting! Clutch engages much smoother, with less chatter.
3) Car feels faster, acceleration is smoother!

Best $180 upgrade you can do! Just have a universal drive head, and a 6" extension, to reach the 18mm bolt (NOT 17mm Perry) between the exhaust pipes, etc. You also need the universal drive to reach the driver side top rear 13mm bolt.

philooo

Hey I have bought the RS mount kit form suncoast but I have many screws in there, can anybody explain to me what they are for ?

I thought there would be for each mount:
- 1 screw going into the middle of the mount toward the motor support
- 2 screws going on the mount side to fix it to the chassis

But in that kit, it seems I have double of what I need. Some look silver, the other set look more like nickel/gold.

I wonder if there is a "choice" to be made or something

help

D6lc

Andy,

Thanks for the pics, it looks like the bolt end is 5 1/2 inches from the mount base, can anyone confirm that?