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Changing out those old motor mounts well worth it

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Old 12-20-2012, 06:02 PM
  #46  
Sneaky Pete
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Originally Posted by AndyK
Cool tips, thanks!

Can I jack/support the engine under the point everyone likes to use to lift the rear of the car?

Are the bottom bolts reachable without putting the car up on stands?
You need the jackstands...it just gives you more room. It really is a breeze to change these out. But take your time. Have fun
Old 12-20-2012, 06:05 PM
  #47  
alpine003
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Originally Posted by AndyK
Cool tips, thanks!

Can I jack/support the engine under the point everyone likes to use to lift the rear of the car?

Are the bottom bolts reachable without putting the car up on stands?
This has been debated many times in the past and a can of worms I don't want to open. I was comfortable just using a longer piece of 2x4 to put on the oil pan as I wasn't really jacking anything but merely just supporting it for a short time. You should do what makes you comfortable.

Edit: yes they are reachable without putting on jack stands. Just need to maneuver a longer socket extension between some things.
Old 12-20-2012, 06:10 PM
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AndyK
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I may roll the car onto some 2x4's at the end of my garage entrance - that works for oil changes. Gives me a little extra room without having to jack up the car.
Old 12-20-2012, 06:13 PM
  #49  
alpine003
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Originally Posted by AndyK
I may roll the car onto some 2x4's at the end of my garage entrance - that works for oil changes. Gives me a little extra room without having to jack up the car.
IMHO, you don't even really need to do that. There is more than ample room to get to the bottom bolts, unless you are 6'9" and have long arms and/or your slammed to GT3-RS specs. But it certainly can't hurt if you feel more comfortable that way.
Old 12-20-2012, 06:25 PM
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AndyK
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Awesome! Saves me plenty of time to not jack up the car! Ill give it a go this weekend.
Old 12-20-2012, 06:38 PM
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Good luck and report back.
Old 12-20-2012, 06:59 PM
  #52  
perryinva
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Yes, I agree with Pete, it is easier to SEE what you have to do, if the back is up a bit. Even backing up on to the 2x4s is helpful. I would support the engine at that block that everyone uses to jack it, rather than the oil pan, but I'm **** about that stuff, since I had a cracked oil pan from the PO. Just use the jack to lift the engine like 1/4", thats all. One big 18mm socketed nut (63ft-lb torque) under the car, and 2 -13mm socketed bolts on the engine compartment side (25ft-lb???, better check, not as critical, tho) and the mount just lifts right out. I needed a universal and extensions to easily do the top bolts. Just a 6" extension for the bottom ones makes it easier. Do one at a time, and engine can't shift. Fast and easy, like they said.

Last edited by perryinva; 12-23-2012 at 12:11 AM.
Old 12-21-2012, 11:27 AM
  #53  
AndyK
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I'll try and take some shots comparing the old mounts with the new ones. I'm hoping the old ones are shot!
Old 12-21-2012, 12:12 PM
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alpine003
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Originally Posted by AndyK
I'll try and take some shots comparing the old mounts with the new ones. I'm hoping the old ones are shot!
Most likely the only thing you'll notice visually is that one of the mounts will probably look a bit squished compared to the new ones. This seems to be pretty common.

Either way your car should ride better if your old ones were worn out.
Old 12-21-2012, 12:18 PM
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Andy, could you measure the new mount height vs your old ones please, as they seem to sag with age.

I plan on doing the DIY semi solid mounts and have purchased off fleabay some old mounts, but I want to make sure I set the height of the mount correctly before I pour in the PU.

Thanks
Old 12-21-2012, 02:35 PM
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AndyK
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Originally Posted by rossclifford
Andy, could you measure the new mount height vs your old ones please, as they seem to sag with age.

I plan on doing the DIY semi solid mounts and have purchased off fleabay some old mounts, but I want to make sure I set the height of the mount correctly before I pour in the PU.

Thanks
So, you need the NEW mount height, if you are setting the height, right?
Old 12-22-2012, 11:07 AM
  #57  
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Yes please
Old 12-22-2012, 05:51 PM
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Job done! Anyone who has NOT done their mounts should! My car only has 25k miles, but after 12 years, my mounts were tired to say the least. I didn't know what to measure Ross, so I took a shot next to the tape measure.

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I took the car out after installing the new mounts:

1) Way smoother motor, less vibration, feels like a different car!
2) Better shifting! Clutch engages much smoother, with less chatter.
3) Car feels faster, acceleration is smoother!

Best $180 upgrade you can do! Just have a universal drive head, and a 6" extension, to reach the 18mm bolt (NOT 17mm Perry) between the exhaust pipes, etc. You also need the universal drive to reach the driver side top rear 13mm bolt.
Old 12-22-2012, 10:33 PM
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philooo
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Hey I have bought the RS mount kit form suncoast but I have many screws in there, can anybody explain to me what they are for ?

I thought there would be for each mount:
- 1 screw going into the middle of the mount toward the motor support
- 2 screws going on the mount side to fix it to the chassis

But in that kit, it seems I have double of what I need. Some look silver, the other set look more like nickel/gold.

I wonder if there is a "choice" to be made or something

help
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:39 PM
  #60  
D6lc
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Andy,

Thanks for the pics, it looks like the bolt end is 5 1/2 inches from the mount base, can anyone confirm that?


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