Please elaborate.....

 

Ok, here are some of the pics. The first shows the mess as found with the oil cooler still in place, at one of the "wet" corners. All coolant, but this is the oil side. I was worried. It looked like this, but in varying degrees of dried out at all 4 corners.

The second shows the clear shot of the cooler with the manifold still in place. In the background you can see the 1/4" drive with 6" extension on it with a 1/4" drive 10mm socket on the rear most manifold bolt.

Third is the manifold side of the cooler with it removed. Dried coolant everywhere. Note there was absolutely no indication of a problem except the VERY slow loss of coolant. Oil and coolant all look great. BTW, though the intakes look filthy, they literally just wiped shiny clean with a paper towel, all the was to the valve stems. I did all 6. Good for 10HP at least!

Fourth is everything on top removed. PLenty of room to work, you'd think. Still had trouble cleaning out all the webs because....

Of the fifth pic. This is the mess after you remove the cooler, even with a towel and knowing what might happen. Note the huge chunks of totally dried coolant solids. About an hour to clean and vacuum it as good as I could get it. Still stained reddish, but the webs are empty now, and I hope they stay that way.

Final pic is Happy Engine all back together.

 

nice job, how bad was it to remove the intake manifold screws ? I heard they are a bitch to remove ?

 

The key is to fix the engine in place and lift the rest of the body to get the extra 2-3 inches. Or drop the engine completely. The right hand manifold is easy, 6 10mm bolts, easily removed with a 1/4" drive and socket. The first 5 on the left hand one are similar, but the last one against the AOS, is really a royal PITA. And to make matters worse, Porsche changed the new AOS to make that last bolt even harder to get in. I took it out with the 1/4" socket, but it was not possible to replace it that way. I even Dremeled off the unused plastic upside down "U" that was added for no known reason, but there was NO way any socket could fit in there. It is just too tight between the intake runner and the AOS, with barely any room above the bolt head. I was able to thread the bolt in by finger tip enough so that I could get a ratcheting closed end wrench in there and in 1/8 rotational increments get it snugged up. Seriously a horrible job with the new AOS in the MKIIs. Just one friggin bolt.

 

Very interesting. Thanks very much for posting.

Cheers,
Tom

 

I guess that's theoretically possible, if you went to solid mounts. But it wasn't my experience with the RS mounts. Combined with a short shift kit, I loved the more lively feeling of the car and the rifle bolt shifts. The RS mounts are forgiving enough that upgrading the transmission mount, too, for example, isn't necessary. It's my understanding that knock sensors are little piezo electric microphones that respond to the sound of pre-detonation, not vibration. If the RS mounts caused that kind of problem, then so would pretty much every inch of pavement around here.

 

I used to think that as well but now I'm glad I upgraded. Part of the reason why I pulled the trigger was the cost(diy, minimal cash and risk) but partly due to the fact that I replaced my wife's BMW engine mounts recently with upgraded ones and felt a very nice improvement. Then I came across a DIY for poly mounts and figured I wouldn't really have nothing to lose for under $50. I'm glad I did that.

These are the things I've noticed and remember, I recently replaced my 100k oem engine mounts with new oem turbo mounts so it's not like this comparison is comparing against broken mounts. With the poly's, I've noticed more positive shift engagement, better braking and acceleration feel allowing me to better modulate through the apex and get on the gas earlier with more confidence. The NVH is barely noticeable from before except when the temps are below 40deg, then it feels a bit more noticeable but not objectionable or harsh by any means.

Now that I've experienced the advantages(specifically on the 996 car), I wouldn't mind paying extra for some ready made aftermarket ones if my current mounts were old.

 

Interesting. Where did you read about the DIY poly solution? I'd like to know how they unstretched the old mounts to make the new one. Would you say the change from 100k old ones to turbo mounts was more significant that from turbo to DIY ones?

 

many people talk about the turbo mounts, it would be nice for someone to post the parts# and DIY

I have purchased the RS motor mount convertion kit from sun coast, it comes with a bunch of screws and no instruction. if someone can point to a DIY that would be cool

I mean the kit comes with like 10 screws I thought there was only 3 on each mount... no ?

 

DIY Here...

I barely noticed any difference going from my 100k mounts to the turbo ones. FWIW, I didn't change the original mounts because it was failing. I just changed it figuring it had a lot of miles on them and heard turbo mounts were suppose to be firmer. I did however notice quite a bit of difference going from turbo mounts to these diy's. I'm a happy camper at under $50 and the best mod I've done in terms of cost/performance, unless you're counting pumpkin mod which is cheaper and adds more HP.

 

Parts Geek are showing the Corteco mounts that they state are OEM for the Turbo & GT2 for under $90 (cant remember the exact price).

Are these firmer/different then to the standard C2 mounts, and more important do they fit a C2?

 

They definitely fit C2 but not sure if the Corteco's are any stiffer. IIRC, some of the cheaper aftermarket mounts didn't have the liquid filling in them making them more stiff but can't remember if it was the Corteco's or not.

 

Acording to Pelican, the Corteco and Reins are the exact same ones, "turbo" stiffness, and wrk fine on the C2. How much stiffer they are is anyones guess. They have a different part number (last 2 digits) from the standard, but they are the only ones supplied, so I suspect the differences are slight.
Alpine, did you compare your old 100k mounts with the new turbo ones and see any visual difference? Like I mentioned, my old ones were easily stretched/collapsed an added 1/2" (see pic in first post). I may take my old ones and do the same DIY and give it a try for effect.

 

There were no visual differences I could see between my original and turbo. I tried to make sense of the part numbers which were a bit ambiguous.

 

Interesting. I wonder if yours could have already been replaced by a PO? I don't see how they could not be collapsed at 100k miles on an older car. Liek I mentioned, night and day difference between mine, and I only had like 45k miles on them on an '02.

When you built your DIY ones, did you cut the casting in half like he showed, or was that for effect to show how it is built? Did you only pour the PU into the top, of was it a 2 part process? In the cut away, he shows PU both under and in/over the original rubber. It's a bit confusing.