First time dropping the transmission and I'm stuck
#17
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The new IMS bearing is in. I used a basic replacement bearing for now. The old double row bearing was in excellent condition but you don't really know until you have it out. I plan on replacing it with the LN Engineering bearing with the next clutch change. The IMS install was a bit more fiddly than i expected. The bearing and install tool did spend the night in the freezer. I locked down the cam shafts with the LNE cam locks and locked the engine at TDC. I was really happy that I did. I also used the pins that came with the bearing to lock the IM shaft in place. When I started banging on the bearing install tool with the hammer the IM shaft shifted as the pins where ineffective in holding it in position. The other thing I didn't realize is that the outer spacer that adapts the bearing for use in a double row installation is not a press fit spacer. I tried to load it onto the install tool along with the bearing for installation which was unnecessary and only ended up getting in the way.
This was a big job for me. I still have the AOS to do and then it's time to start buttoning it back up. I am very slow at what I am doing. By the time I'm done I'll probably have about 30 hours of time under the car spread out over a week and a half. Only things left that I am nervous about at this point are lining up the transmission correctly for re-install (thanks for the well wishes ECS Tuning) and getting those upper bell housing bolts both started and up to full torque.
I think that I agree that this is a DIY project. However, it is definitely one that is at my limit. I was thinking that after this project I might be ready to take on something larger. Nope. I am feeling good not passing this level for a bit but will be up for doing this again when the clutch needs to be replaced.
This was a big job for me. I still have the AOS to do and then it's time to start buttoning it back up. I am very slow at what I am doing. By the time I'm done I'll probably have about 30 hours of time under the car spread out over a week and a half. Only things left that I am nervous about at this point are lining up the transmission correctly for re-install (thanks for the well wishes ECS Tuning) and getting those upper bell housing bolts both started and up to full torque.
I think that I agree that this is a DIY project. However, it is definitely one that is at my limit. I was thinking that after this project I might be ready to take on something larger. Nope. I am feeling good not passing this level for a bit but will be up for doing this again when the clutch needs to be replaced.
#18
Son of a Barvarian, the AOS was hard!!! The clips for the top hose were inaccessible so I ended up just breaking the top hose spike off the old AOS. Putting the new AOS back on I kept sending the hose clip zinging around the engine compartment until eventually lost. Rather than continue to search fo an ineffective connector I replaced it with a 5/8" stainless hose camp. Maybe not correct, but it will make the whole process much easier next time. Took me about 4 1/2 hours with the transmission already dropped. Now it's time to put the transmission back in.
#19
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After four transmission removal and having a real hard time lining the first one up, I learned to not move the engine angle or transmission (from the stand) so that the line it was in when it came out is the same line when going back in.
#20
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Son of a Barvarian, the AOS was hard!!! The clips for the top hose were inaccessible so I ended up just breaking the top hose spike off the old AOS. Putting the new AOS back on I kept sending the hose clip zinging around the engine compartment until eventually lost. Rather than continue to search fo an ineffective connector I replaced it with a 5/8" stainless hose camp. Maybe not correct, but it will make the whole process much easier next time. Took me about 4 1/2 hours with the transmission already dropped. Now it's time to put the transmission back in.
#21
Three Wheelin'
I'm not usually lucky with these things....usually I end up breaking something. Not this time...up-in-on.
#22
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Sorry for the ****tiest pic ever, at this point I had no idea there was a low light setting on my phone camera ha ha. I had my Porsche up on the 2 post lift, my engine supported by a couple stands, and used a transmission jack to raise and lower the tranny. I think my biggest problem was that I didn't fix the positioning of the tranny jack so when I put the tranny back up it wasn't in the exact same position on the lift so it didn't match up exactly the way I took it out (angle up and down side to side etc)
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Haha the shop is pretty well lit, was doing it in the middle of the night. closed the shop at 8pm after working a full 12hr day, brought my car in, pulled the tranny, did the clutch, refinished the flywheel, did the RMS, IMS bearing, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, pivot, changed the oil, tranny fluid, installed an intake, and got an hours sleep on the shop couch before opening the next morning at 7:30am ha ha. I think part of my problem getting it back in may have been exhaust ontop of not being smart with the tranny jack. I know I completely blame that for me smashing my reverse sensor when reinstalling the tranny.
I think my shop has around 100 flourescent tubes lighting the shop. I think the issue with the pic like I said was most likely the fact is was my phone camera was on an action setting instead of low light, and you can see my trouble light is shining directly at it.
#25
Three Wheelin'
Dude, sounds awful. I know I get stupid as hell when I get tired. My problem is that I usually get tired about 4 in the afternoon.
I took a few weeks to do my clutch and AOS. Getting it done in one night is not an option for a DIY guy like me.
Of course I was j/k about the lights in your shop. I am on my (@/#*) blackberry and all I saw was grey rectangle with some white spots.
Rockon
I took a few weeks to do my clutch and AOS. Getting it done in one night is not an option for a DIY guy like me.
Of course I was j/k about the lights in your shop. I am on my (@/#*) blackberry and all I saw was grey rectangle with some white spots.
Rockon
#26
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Dude, sounds awful. I know I get stupid as hell when I get tired. My problem is that I usually get tired about 4 in the afternoon.
I took a few weeks to do my clutch and AOS. Getting it done in one night is not an option for a DIY guy like me.
Of course I was j/k about the lights in your shop. I am on my (@/#*) blackberry and all I saw was grey rectangle with some white spots.
Rockon
I took a few weeks to do my clutch and AOS. Getting it done in one night is not an option for a DIY guy like me.
Of course I was j/k about the lights in your shop. I am on my (@/#*) blackberry and all I saw was grey rectangle with some white spots.
Rockon
Plus biggest thing, I could not go weeks without my P-car. I hate getting in to any of my other vehicles. I only use my G, Edge or truck when I absolutely need to.
PS I dont understand how you cant see that picture clearly as it was taken with a blackberry I thought these things were supposed to be compatible with one another.
#27
The tranny is back in. I have to say that mating it back up was the easiest part of the whole job. It never left the transmission jack and was only moved about 2 feet forward to give me room to get at the AOS and IMS. It slid right back in with barely a shake.
Things learned: Invest in a good shop jack with a decent amount of lift. It took me forever to raise and lower the car and wasn't so very safe. 22-24" jack stands are an adequate height for this job assuming that you don't need to get the tranny out from under the vehicle for further work. Go higher and most floor level tranny jacks aren't going to reach. The top mounting bolts on the tranny are a bear to reach. To remove the ends of the shifter cables from the transmission just pry out with two screwdrivers. They both have a 3 prong clip over them that I thought might have to be removed first. It doesn't. Getting the slave trans cylinder on and off is a pain. I used some flex extensions on the tranny and slave cylinder but universal joints where my best friend as I could apply some torque through them. Photos are good. When I took off the clutch pressure plate the clutch disk fell out. Since I didn't get to intentfully disassemble it I wasn't fully sure of the orientation. I was able to reference back to a picture I had taken of the assembly to confirm my guess. It was difficult to tell when the IMS bearing was fully seated. I couldn't see the coil lock groove at the edge of the bearing and kept pounding on the bearing much longer than necessary. A car that has had it's oil drained still contains a lot of oil.
I was really happy that I had locked the cams and pinned the engine at TDC. Hammering the bearing in caused the IM shaft to move despite being pinned with the three pressure pins supplied in the Pelican kit. Not sure how my timing would have fared without fully locking down the engine. Without the forum and excellent write ups I would have never attempted this as a DIY. That said, it was still at the limit of my ability. I am happy and proud that I did it, but not in a rush to do this level of job again anytime soon. Next up... replace the windshield wipers! :-)
Things learned: Invest in a good shop jack with a decent amount of lift. It took me forever to raise and lower the car and wasn't so very safe. 22-24" jack stands are an adequate height for this job assuming that you don't need to get the tranny out from under the vehicle for further work. Go higher and most floor level tranny jacks aren't going to reach. The top mounting bolts on the tranny are a bear to reach. To remove the ends of the shifter cables from the transmission just pry out with two screwdrivers. They both have a 3 prong clip over them that I thought might have to be removed first. It doesn't. Getting the slave trans cylinder on and off is a pain. I used some flex extensions on the tranny and slave cylinder but universal joints where my best friend as I could apply some torque through them. Photos are good. When I took off the clutch pressure plate the clutch disk fell out. Since I didn't get to intentfully disassemble it I wasn't fully sure of the orientation. I was able to reference back to a picture I had taken of the assembly to confirm my guess. It was difficult to tell when the IMS bearing was fully seated. I couldn't see the coil lock groove at the edge of the bearing and kept pounding on the bearing much longer than necessary. A car that has had it's oil drained still contains a lot of oil.
I was really happy that I had locked the cams and pinned the engine at TDC. Hammering the bearing in caused the IM shaft to move despite being pinned with the three pressure pins supplied in the Pelican kit. Not sure how my timing would have fared without fully locking down the engine. Without the forum and excellent write ups I would have never attempted this as a DIY. That said, it was still at the limit of my ability. I am happy and proud that I did it, but not in a rush to do this level of job again anytime soon. Next up... replace the windshield wipers! :-)
#29
Do you need to lock the Cams, i'm just about to remove the IMS bearing housing and want to know if you just need to put the engine at TDC - if you do (or its not worth the risk) where can you get the lock tool (or a picture to make some up).