devin_wala

Hi all,

I have a rand new to me 996 C2 Cab and I'm already into it before I can even drive the car. :-( I need to pull the transmission to check the state of several items and replace the IMS, AOS and other items.

Well, I thought I knew what I was doing..

I've done all the prep work to drop my C2 996 transmission. unbolted the transaxles, unclipped the reverse sensor, unbolted and zip tied the slave cylinder (yep, people aren't kidding, it really is a bugger), sift cables, pinned the engine at TDC, supported the engine and transmission, removed the transmission mounting brackets, and removed the 8 bolts from the bell housing. From what others have said it should now just pull out. But it doesn't. It doesn't budge a bit.

I've tried raising and lowering the transmission so that the engine isn't supporting the transmission and the transmission isn't supporting the engine.

Some of the threads on C4's and TTs discuss pulling the starter plus an engine stud or removing a fork pivot. The shop procedure for my C2 does not mention either of those. Anyone have any suggestions?

87 944 C

Remove starter don't think I've ever done a trans without removing it. Did u drop axles off the trans/dif?

KrazyK

At least it looks like your labeling things. Did you take photos? Do you have a real service manual to help you?

DBJoe996

The workshop manual says at this point to move the transmission forward...remember you have to pull it forward to slip the spline shaft out. There are only the eight bolts holding the transmission to the engine, so it seems you have that correct. Have you tried to gently pry the transmission forward away from the engine casing and see if it budges at all?

speed rII

No need to pull the startermotor.

Locating pins might be stuck, so you could pry the transmission with flat srewdriwer.

devin_wala

Thanks. I do have the Porsche service manual. I've taken a few shots but not nearly enough for a DIY. Have been pulling the trans forward, any more and I'll be holding the car in place of the jack stands. :-)

If I lightly pry the transmission it comes out 1mm where I am prying but sucks back in when I stop. I'm going to give speed rII's theory a shot and see how it goes.

devin_wala

I tried prying as much as I dare without risk of breaking something. Seems to be held up by something on the passenger side of the the bell housing.

Chris996

YOu should have a jack under the motor. Try lowering the motor to give more transmission clearance. I have had my C2 3.6 out several times. I believe I shook the transmission back and forth until it came off the guide pins. Looks like you're doing it right. While you are in there replace the 4 O-rings on the oil cooler. Silver rectangular can on the left. If you see white/gray powder on the left inside of, tran/eng, it is leaking coolant.

DBJoe996

When you pry it out and it "sucks" back in, then probably the spline shaft is stuck in the clutch drive plate. Pull harder or pry harder...it should pull forward...use some wood shims to apply forward force until it comes loose. I would do as Chris says...shake it back and forth...and definitely have a jack support under the engine.

devin_wala

Woohoo!!! I have just dropped my first transmission! A little prying, drop the tranny a little lower, a few wiggles and then out. Thanks guys, I would still be frustratedly looking over the manual without you! Had to come in to say THANKS before I continued on with the AOS and IMS and maybe some other bits.

ECS Tuning

I'm glad you finally got it out I know they can be bare sometimes to get out but hopefully it's a little easier getting back in.

Viper6

This is awesome... how long did it take you? You are showing us all we can do this if I ever needed to...

Ericginpa

Congrats! Do yourself a favor and put the new IMS bearing in the freezer overnight. It has a really close tolerance and will def go in easier once frozen.

jrgordonsenior

Same thing works for wheel bearings BTW....

devin_wala

The new IMS bearing is in. I used a basic replacement bearing for now. The old double row bearing was in excellent condition but you don't really know until you have it out. I plan on replacing it with the LN Engineering bearing with the next clutch change. The IMS install was a bit more fiddly than i expected. The bearing and install tool did spend the night in the freezer. I locked down the cam shafts with the LNE cam locks and locked the engine at TDC. I was really happy that I did. I also used the pins that came with the bearing to lock the IM shaft in place. When I started banging on the bearing install tool with the hammer the IM shaft shifted as the pins where ineffective in holding it in position. The other thing I didn't realize is that the outer spacer that adapts the bearing for use in a double row installation is not a press fit spacer. I tried to load it onto the install tool along with the bearing for installation which was unnecessary and only ended up getting in the way.

This was a big job for me. I still have the AOS to do and then it's time to start buttoning it back up. I am very slow at what I am doing. By the time I'm done I'll probably have about 30 hours of time under the car spread out over a week and a half. Only things left that I am nervous about at this point are lining up the transmission correctly for re-install (thanks for the well wishes ECS Tuning) and getting those upper bell housing bolts both started and up to full torque.

I think that I agree that this is a DIY project. However, it is definitely one that is at my limit. I was thinking that after this project I might be ready to take on something larger. Nope. I am feeling good not passing this level for a bit but will be up for doing this again when the clutch needs to be replaced.